You are zone 10 so there will be no "freeze/thaw process" to raise the stones through the grass quickly. I would still remove all stones down 8". Take the remaining soil and mix in Profile Field & Fairway Emerald at 50% rate. Cover the seed with 70-80% and it will be green "soil" in case any shows through a bare spot. If your court is 10' diameter, you will need one 2000lb supersack and possibly a few 50lb sacks for topping. Here is a link that might be useful: Profile Field & Fairway Link

You would water it real good to get the Bermuda all happy and growing well; this includes hosing the Bermuda dwon to remove any inhibiting dust present. Then paint it everywhere you can reach with Roundup a couple of days later without contacting the plants you would like not to kill. As much as possible in the early morning at this time of year to let it absorb. This will uptake the roundup and distribute it to every cell in the grass. Then wait up to a couple of weeks while it does. This sounds like a pain in the arse to me. I'd spray PER DIRECTIONS with Grass Getter mixed with a surfactant ("Herbicide Helper") to ensure contact and adherence. A little goes a long way so I'd order the 8 ounce pack, make up only as much as needed. I'd spray sunset. May not have been tested with succulents and cactus (tested OK around Barrel Cactus) though there is no reason to suspect they would be effected by active ingredient sethoxydim (POAST). I would still try to spray just a small test area first to see if any effect on your desired plants is noted, also avoid the crown of any cactus no matter what would be good practice in my opinion. Note: This kills grasses, not "nut grass" or weeds so eliminating Bermuda may make room for weeds. I'd consider mulching the eradicated area with decomposed gravel or other rock mulch. http://www.montereylawngarden.com/product_information.aspx?242000p=81635767-13a6-49da-abec-d868f1a7d4f1&240000p=033fd50e-5678-4f1a-a6df-27ce390984ce http://216.119.118.152/documents/public/products/Grass%20Getter2-columnlabel-%2803%29.pdf http://216.119.118.152/documents/public/products/Herbicide%20Helper%20%2803%29-2-columnSupl.pdf

@N/A Talk to the dog. I get barked at by a dog on the other side of a fence and I greet him calmly. I say, "oh, dog, you are so tedious." Most dogs recognize "dog" refers to them and a response to their territorial barking reassures them. They learn that the sounds on the other side of the fence is a calm person, not a threat. He may be a mean, scary dog, but I'd start with the assumption he'll make friends with someone non-threatening.

Those are CLASSIC dog urine spots. If not dogs then foxes or cats or something. Classic, though. The dark green color around the spots is telling me that your chemical fertilizers are not working, but the organic fertilizer from the animal is working great. At this point I would put down an organic. Any commercially produced bagged product will work, but also you can use ground up animal feed. For example dry dog food or cat food both work very well. Also soybean meal, alfalfa pellets, corn meal, or corn gluten meal are available in plain brown bags at your feed store. The application rate for all of them is 15 pounds per 1,000 square feet. Give them 3 full weeks to work and the grass should green up all over. I would suggest incorporating at least one organic application per year either instead of one chemical app or in addition to the chemical apps. Where do you live? If your soil temps are in the 50s, the fertilizer might not work right away or may take longer than 3 weeks. What is your watering schedule? How often and for how long do you water?