I can only tell you from my own experience and hope that it relates and helps. Your Valencia is looking good and I believe will be back to normal soon. [see below] Go real easy on the feeding and when you do feed, keep the fertilizer well away from the trunk. I'd also suggest moving the soaker hose much further away from the trunk. First of all, the Meyer and Valencia may be on different rootstock and so that may explain their different condition. They may have reacted to or tolerated something very differently. I have a Redblush and Sanguinelli looking very much like yours; that is, they are just beginning to bloom and with minimal and yellow leaves. They are probably a few weeks behind yours.My Valencia looks far worse, just new "nubs" trying to push out of the green bark. It still has about a dozen yellow leaves. I hear that this massive bloom may be the initial stage of recovery after a drought and or stress. All three mentioned above endured 3-4 moves as landscape plans changed over the last two years. However, these three were in a somewhat similar decline exactly a year ago (yellow, dry looking leaves and tips) but had turned worse. I did not realize that i was over-feeding until July. I stopping the feeding and began flushing the soil with copious amounts of water regularly. This seemed to stabilize them. They have stood in a coma until a few weeks ago when again began growing (they had been regrowing the roots i had burned by over-feeding i guess). My Lisbon did a major leaf drop and leafless bloom after a transplant; that is, just blooms no new leaves. [It was in its location for 5 years so i did have to cut the roots significantly to move it.] Fast forward 10 months and its pushing lots of leaves and all systems normal. There is plenty of nutrition in my soil and i am not feeding anything until i get evidence otherwize. I believe that root damage is the cause of my woes, and in my case it was too much fertilzer, and perhaps applied too close to the trunk! I hope this helps and good luck!

I've been trying to nurse a lemon tree back to health. I'm in northern Los Angeles (Zone 10). The previous owners of my house planted a young lemon tree under another tree (in complete shade). In October, I transplanted it to a sunny area of the yard. The leaves have always been pale and yellow. I have two other citrus trees (including key lime planted in the ground nearby) - both have rich green leaves and are flowering/fruiting. The lemon tree has had a little bit of new growth since the move, but no blooming. Since March, I've been deep watering once every couple weeks (if it's dry), and the sprinkler runs twice a week. I've fertilized a couple times with fish emulsion and a few handfuls of worm castings. Last month I fertilized with 10-6-4 citrus fertilizer (expecting the leaves to turn green if it was a nutrient deficiency), and it still looks about the same. It seems like no matter what I try, it looks about the same (where as the same treatment is working wonders for the two other trees - no need for citrus fertilizer) The pictures may be a bit deceptive since none of the leaves are really green. There are leaf miners on some of the leaves (but a gardener friend said to leave the leaves alone and the worm castings would eventually help) Any suggestions? Are the leaves of a lemon tree different color from other citrus? Should I dig down and try to look at the roots?

Pale leaves may indicate a deficiency of nitrogen, and/or minerals such as iron, zinc, manganese, or magnesium. Usually, with a mineral deficiency, rather than lack of nitrogen, you will see the veins of the leaf are a darker green than area between the veins. You should probably check with a local nursery or gardening expert to see which minerals are usually needed in AU. You might experiment with a high-nitrogen soluble fertilizer, or blood meal or fish emulsion. You can also try foliar feeding the minerals (this may work more quickly than putting them in the soil). For the long term, you should scrutinize the label of the fertilizer you are using. It should be high in nitrogen, and also have the minerals (sometimes called micronutrients). It is normal for citrus to require more of these nutrients than other plants. Regarding the nitrogen levels of your fertilizer, beware of advice from Americans as we measure fertilizer ratios differently than the metric world does.

Just to let you know again, spider mites can't be seen by your normal eyesight. They're microscopic! University of Florida describes them as 1/50th inch long. The female is 0.4 millimeters. You can't "see" spider mites, literally! But just because you cannot see them with your plain eyeballs, doesn't mean it's not on your plant. Your leaves show the most common spider mite symptom. I would advise you not to ignore the very high likelihood of spider mites on your plant. Your organocide will only kill adult bugs on contact but any eggs that are on your plant will not be affected. You'll have to keep spraying until you take down every last bug going through their adult phase