LOL, isn't that the truth! I am kind-of over it, though. I first saw the listing right after church and got excited, posted here, and didn't get any responses until checking now. I don't know, maybe I'm just tired. I'll contact the seller and see what I can find out about condition, etc.. The seat looks cane and I wonder if it could be used without cushion, although it would be more decorative rather than used. I could probably find a ready made cushion that would do. The main thing is condition and price. Perhaps I should offer $50 if it is in great shape. Not interested if it is not. I'll report back.

It's too bad that detail was missed during the layout and design phase of the shower. I'd hate to see the rail left off that fourth wall, unbalanced installations look...well...unbalanced. If the escutcheon plate can hide the cut edge of the chair rail tile then that'd probably be the best compromise; scribe the chair rail to go around the escutcheon plate. The reason I'm not a big fan of scribes like that is in the event the valve is ever replaced. Sure, it might be 10 years from now, 5 years from now, or never. But the scribe will come into play for the new escutcheon plate. If you do scribe it to fit the valve cover plate, keep a couple of pieces of chair rail tile as "extras" for that day way down the road. Just in case. There are a few alternatives, but they involve tweaking the tile design. Some changes can be local, just around the shower valve. A "box" border around the valve with the chair rail butting into the box border. Some changes can be wholesale. But the easiest would be to scribe the chair rail tile around the valve's plate. Just as long as the cut edge is covered by the plate it should look fine.

I'd keep all your trimwork the same color to avoid a patchworky sort of look. Since the three taupes are all shades of the exact same color, your arrangement works fine, especially if you can pull that dark taupe from the upper "stripe" down to floor level (lots of it in the rug, upholstery on the chaise, something like that). Lots of black accents will set off the red and taupes. If you haven't already chosen artwork for the room, since you're looking for a sparser feel I'd take a look at some landscape photography in a cooler sepia tone, matted in a very pale taupey color like the trim color, framed in black. If you're having second thoughts about using the dark taupe, one thing that someone here (can't remember who, might not even be here anymore) did years ago was bring her white or almost-white ceiling color down onto the upper wall by about a foot, dividing it from the lower walls with a molding, but without using crown molding. The intent, IIRC, was to make the ceiling look higher - I seem to be immune to these sorts of illusions, but it did look rather nice. I wish I could get at my old-house books (STILL buried under 17 layers of boxes, arrrgh, there was a frantic relocation of other boxes halfway through unpacking the books and DH hasn't un-piled them for me), I have a dozen pictures in my head but I can't get at them to scan. The 2' upper + 6' lower was actually a common division for an 8' high wall at one time, although it's more automatic these days to just divide a wall into thirds. I just thought of this - if it helps you wrap your head around it, think of it like a plate rail rather than a chair rail. Not that you're necessarily going to put plates on it (unless you want to, of course) but just think about how a plate rail often rides a bit higher so that what's sitting on it is less likely to get knocked off. If you can get at the walls at this time, try measuring and taping off the divisions on at least one wall to see what works for you. If you use the very-low-tack painter's tape or masking paper you'll be able to remove it easily without damaging the wall surface, and if you use the extra-wide kind you can get an idea of how the molding width will play on the wall. (If you have or can get your hands on a laser level your life will be so much easier!)

Hold the phone!!!!! Brad/finish nailers can be found for MUCH less than $350!!!!! Porter Cable regularly runs specials on a kit---18 gauge brad nailer, 16 gauge finish nailer, small portable compressor with hose/fittings/thread tape for less than $350. That is an ideal combo for home use. I have all three---bought separately years ago---That I use in my business. six years and no problems. Miter saws are also priced with a wide difference. My son bought a Delta 10" compound miter saw to do trim in his house and paid $99. we used ot for tongue and groove ceiling planks, 3&1/2" crown molding, and standard base molding. I have a six year old DeWalt 12" saw I paid $300 and now sells regularly for $290. There are dual compound models---they tilt/swing in both directions starting around $400 and sliding compound starting at $400 for 10" models and $600 for 12" models.