Try to do it all yourself. Even if you have to be rescued, it's only a few dollars wasted on baseboard.

The miter box may limit you unless you have exact 45 degree outside miters. A compound miter saw is best for that.

The inside corners should be coped for a nice, snug fit. There are plenty of coping instructions online. After one coping fit, you'll have it down.

Pre-drill the fastening holes through the baseboard with a small bit. That will prevent any splits and make it easier to start the hammering process.

Use acrylic latex caulk to fill any gaps between board and wall to create a professional finish.

A chair rail can be complex for a beginner especially if it has a lot of design features.

My daughter's Christmas list includes a compound miter saw and a brad nailer. She wants to install crown molding in her new house. :)

Michael

Here is a link that might be useful: coping joints

Hi Michael, thanks so much for your help! I will try it myself. I'm not sure if I should invest in the compound miter saw just yet. I think that is a pretty big investment and also a pretty big piece of machinery. I have heard as you have said that the miter box isn't that useful though. Like your daughter, I would love to be able to install crown molding so will probably need to buy one if I get up the nerve to try. I guess it will depend on how these smaller projects go.

Thanks for the info on coping. It will be fun to try.

Is a brad nailer a nail gun for finishing nails? There was one on sale at Home depot for around $50. would that be worth getting?

Would love to hear how your daughter's molding project goes!

Thanks again!

Michael, just wanted to let you know, if you are still there, that I installed the baseboard in my basement! It came out really well. It took a while with the miter box, definitely will consider a compound miter saw if I attempt my upstairs project. Coping was a learning process but I got it OK. Since I painted the trim white, the caulk gives it a very finished look (and hides any beginner goof ups!)

As for the chair rail, I think I will just do a simple chair rail (one piece) since I don't want it to project much into the hallway. I may have to break down and get the pneumatic nailer even though they run $350 or so. We'll see!

From my reading it seems I need to make a jig for the picture frames. Is there any rule of thumb for how big to make the picture frames? Should they be wider than they are tall? Thanks!

Hold the phone!!!!!

Brad/finish nailers can be found for MUCH less than $350!!!!!

Porter Cable regularly runs specials on a kit---18 gauge brad nailer, 16 gauge finish nailer, small portable compressor with hose/fittings/thread tape for less than $350. That is an ideal combo for home use.

I have all three---bought separately years ago---That I use in my business. six years and no problems.

Miter saws are also priced with a wide difference. My son bought a Delta 10" compound miter saw to do trim in his house and paid $99. we used ot for tongue and groove ceiling planks, 3&1/2" crown molding, and standard base molding.

I have a six year old DeWalt 12" saw I paid $300 and now sells regularly for $290. There are dual compound models---they tilt/swing in both directions starting around $400 and sliding compound starting at $400 for 10" models and $600 for 12" models.

Go to Harbor Freight for 'occasional use' tools.

You can get a 18 gauge nailer for $15 and believe it or not - it works fairly well - definitely good enough for the occasional project. If it breaks, pitch it and get another one. I believe I bought mine on sale for $12.99 and 3 years later it still works. Their 16 ga finish nailer is around $79. You could rent a compressor for a weekend from Home Depot.

Purchased a refurbished Porter-Cable finish nailer for $69.00. Bargains can be found if you look.

I will check out the options you all kindly listed above... It seems that what made it so expensive was the compressor. maybe I will try renting that as randymeyer suggested.

Just wanted to let you know I am almost done with the chair rail and picture frame moldings in my hallway. THey came out great and really add the detail that the hall needed. I will post pictures soon. I ended up using just a miter box and saw - no special nailer. Used tite bond glue for the frames.

Thanks for your help!

Here are some before and after pics of the chair rail and picture frame molding install that I did. I hope you like it! Thanks for your guidance on everything. I am really proud that I was able to do it.

before
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before
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after
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after
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What a wonderful change!

Very nice work too!

I'm glad we were able to help you create such a nice finish.

Michael

Way to go! It looks great.

Thanks! I definitely learned a lot on this project. The wavy walls and sizing of the frames was the most challenging part for me. Finding good caulk and wood glue was important too.