John, You are 100% right, the Box is just a mini Computers and are subject to everything a normal computer is (Lockups, freezes, resetting etc...). Sometimes you do need to replace the box ifthe same problem persists. This will happen on my box whether I have anything on the DVR or not. It is very temperamental and will something do it's own thing. There are times none of the Buttons work (on the remote or on the box itself). I usually have to unplug the box and let it set for a while (resetting it). My real problem is with all the Trips I've made to Comcast exchanging equipment. I recently replaced 2 Cable Adapter Boxes and my Modem/Router. The Modem/Router was the 6th in a year. Once I was home and all hooked up one of the Cable Adapter Boxes didn't work correctly and neither did the Modem/Router. I ended up having Comcast come out this time and they found nothing wrong! I packed up the Modem/Router and took them back again to Comcast. They Replaced the Cable Adapter Box with the same model. The Modem/Router, well I requested a Modem this time with no Router. I decided to use my old Linksys Router. I now have everything working except for the Cable Box in the front room (it had a bunch of stuff on the DVR my daughter recorded). I couldn't return the box for fear of being killed by my daughter (would have lost all her recordings)(maybe next time).

Sounds like your okay if they're both working (WiFi and Bluetooth) chas045. I had a WiFi / Bluetooth Card in my Acer Aspire V5 573p-6896 Laptop that stopped working when I upgraded from Win 8.1 to Win 10. I purchased a different card on Ebay for around $2.80 and it worked flawlessly, yep did have to enter the network password. I then took the Card that stopped working and installed it in my old Acer Aspire 5742z-4601 that had been upgraded to Win 10. This card worked fine WiFi and Bluetooth in this computer, just not the original computer it came in. Had the Same problem with my Wife's Acer Aspire V5 573p-6896 and Win 10. They both worked fine when reverting back to Win 8.1.

geo fencing is a lower end option so you don't have to fuss with remembering to change the settings on the thermostat. Once you are far enough away from the location the thermostat will enter your away settings or if you come close enough the thermostat switches to your present settings. The range, the last time I looked at these was around 7 miles on the high end and 3 miles I think at the low end. So the biggest problem with geo fence is if you are going to this place you may be going to a hot / cold place only being 7 miles from the location to switch the system on. Even if it takes you 15 minutes to drive those 7 miles or 10 minutes to drive 3 miles it's not going to make much difference. So it really comes down to the type of control you want. I don't think you can make changes to the system settings away from the location like you could with a redlink capable thermostat. With a redlink type control you could shut the AC / heat completely off or turn it on to whatever setting you want from anywhere in the world with an internet connection where you are and internet connection at the home you are controlling. They even have a smart phone app, so if you carry your cell phone with you your control options are wide open. The other advantage in Redlink is that it would show you what the temperature is at this location. If there is a problem with equipment you would be able to check on it that way. I service the Katy, Texas area.

WHAT IS A HIGH LIMIT SWITCH? https://www.newcentralairconditioner.com/ The high limit switch in your gas furnace is a small part with two very important jobs. This switch plays a role in the normal operation of your furnace. Turning the fan motor on and off is the high limit switch’s main job. This is the role it plays in every cycle of your furnace’s normal operation. But that’s not the only thing that the high limit switch does. It’s also safety device that helps prevent your furnace from overheating. The high limit switch consists of a long temperature-sensing probe attached to a metal mounting plate. From the mounting plate, the switch is wired to the blower fan motor and to the gas valve. The switch is generally located just past the heat exchanger. This is so that it can detect the temperature of the supply air. In other words, the air that’s about to be blown into your home.