when we moved in (2013) she seemed fine, last year she started looking like crap. I dont remember her looking bad in 2014, but maybe I was not paying attention. I did finally find this after much searching tonight. Most website will tell you the tree is relatively pest free, but I found this. http://mrec.ifas.ufl.edu/lso/SCOUT/key.pdf Key Plants, Key Diseases Key Insects/Mites Key Nematodes Tabebuia Tabebuia spp. Algal spot - Cephaleuros virescens Leaf spots - Cercospora, Corynespora spp. Black twig beetle Scale, several species Tabebuia leafhopper Holopothrips near inquilinus Root-knot nematodes Meloidogyne spp. maybe I can find something that can help her out.

Hi Prairie_north: I check on Pro-Mix HP (65 to 75% peat moss, perlite, lime, wetting agent) http://www.pthorticulture.com/en/products/pro-mix-hp-mycorrhizae/ "PRO-MIX® HP MYCORRHIZAE™ HP - high porosity PRO-MIX® HP, with its high perlite content, provides a growing environment which benefits growers looking for significant drainage capacity, increased air porosity and lower water retention. The added benefit of a fibrous peat moss and coarse perlite ..." I notice on the last picture, the pot is sitting against a black saucer, which means water won't drain fast enough. Rugosa HATES WET FEET. Rugosa is known as "beach rose" since it thrives on DRY & SANDY SOIL. The Pro-Mix-HP has fibrous peat moss, which doesn't drain well like sand, plus peat moss when gets too wet, become acidic. Tip-wilting is indicative of acid-burns ... years ago I had the same problem with one of my band in an acidic too wet potting soil. How to fix that? Take the saucer at the bottom out, and use 2 wooden planks to elevate the pot, to air out the bottom. If possible, drill extra holes at the sides around the bottom, to drain off excess water. pH-test the soil with red-cabbage juice. The best potting soils I used become "clear" in red cabbage juice, which means it's a good buffer & neutral pH. The exception is MG-regular-potting soil (green bag for indoor plants) with a higher % of peatmoss, means more water-retention capacity, that became light pink in red-cabbage juice I still have problems with the over 65% to 75% peat moss content. I would add more perlite. When I root roses, I use 1/2 perlite to 1/2 potting soil (already has perlite), yet that doesn't drain fast enough, I have drill extra holes at the bottom of the pot. Rugosa doesn't like fertilizer, so aim for fast-draining, that way you won't get minerals-accumulation either from your tap, or excess fertilizer. I really think the saucer at the bottom is the culprit. That's why stores put their rose-pots on wooden-planks, for best drainage and airflow to the bottom.

Use distilled water ......... or water from a R/O water filtration system (what I use), or rain water, snow melt, or air conditioner/ dehumidifier condensate, all of which are deionized (no solutes harmful to plants) or very close to that state. N/a - leaves appearing at close to the rate they are being shed, or more leaves being shed than are appearing is an unsustainable condition. Expression of the pigment anthocyanin, which produces the maroon coloration of leaf margins, is usually most conspicuous in the very early and early developmental stage of the leaf; however, light levels are an overarching influence at all times. Brighter light will increase the contrast of the leaves' variegative coloration. Not to chide you, but to others, it's important to understand that because a plant tolerates something isn't necessarily an indication its provisional influence is advantageous to the plant. That a schefflera temporarily tolerates temperatures in the low thirties, or ponytail palms tolerate extended periods of drought and/or low fertility isn't reason enough to adopt those parameters as part of the plant's care regimen. The closer cultural conditions are to the limits the plant is genetically programmed to tolerate, the greater the stress the plant must tolerate to maintain viability. Stress quickly turns to strain, which is an unsustainable condition, unsustainable because under conditions of strain, the plant is using more energy than it's producing. In order to cope with severe stress and strain, plants have the ability to reduce the mass living mass the roots need to sustain, and the mechanism by which mass is diminished is my shedding parts to create a balance between the the plant's top volume and the size/efficiency of its root mass. Good point about the tea leaves. I did know coffee and tea grounds are not good for plants until all harmful chemicals have been leached during the composting process (whether in a compost pile or in the pot), but I wasn't aware of their high fluoride content. I did read that in humans the anti-oxidants act as a counter-measure to the potentiality of oxidative stress in humans. I have no idea if that carries over to plants, but I suspect not - just a guess. Something I wrote about the impact of coffee/tea or used grounds in container plantings: Coffee/Tea Grounds Forum discussions frequently center on the question of adding dilute coffee/tea or grounds to plants as a 'tonic', but Arabica (coffee) and Camellia (tea) are known for their toxic alkaloid (caffeine) content and their allelopathic affect on plants as well as autotoxic (poison to their own seedlings) effects on future generations. Caffeine interferes with root development by impairing protein metabolism. This affects activity of an important bio-compound (PPO) and lignification (the process of becoming woody), crucial steps for root formation. We also know that the tannins in both coffee and tea are known allelopaths (growth inhibitors). There are ongoing experiments to develop herbicides using extracts from both coffee and tea that cause me to want to say they might serve better as a nonselective herbicide than as a tonic. I would not use either (stale coffee or tea) by applying directly to my plants - especially containerized plants; nor would I add tea bags/coffee grounds to my container soils. Al

Every year we get fantastical explanations for chlorosis in the fall. All anyone has to do is stick their head out the window and look for fall colors. If you see Maple trees turning red and yellow your citrus will have chlorosis soon enough, unless you supplement them with artificial light. At least a dozen maybe more reasons this is clearly not a salt build-up. Toronto Canada gets only 150 hours of sunlight in October. A small fraction of that if you are growing in the window. Yes Jeff you need a grow light and a grow tent if possible. It is that time of year. Sonnet 73: That time of year thou mayst in me behold BY WILLIAM SHAKESPEARE That time of year thou mayst in me behold When yellow leaves, or none, or few, do hang Upon those boughs which shake against the cold, Bare ruin'd choirs, where late the sweet birds sang. In me thou see'st the twilight of such day As after sunset fadeth in the west, Which by and by black night doth take away, Death's second self, that seals up all in rest. In me thou see'st the glowing of such fire That on the ashes of his youth doth lie, As the death-bed whereon it must expire, Consum'd with that which it was nourish'd by. This thou perceiv'st, which makes thy love more strong, To love that well which thou must leave ere long.