Don't read this as snotty, because it's not - it;s your tree, so do whatever you feel comfortable with. If it was my tree, I'd go all the way, bite the bullet & completely bare root so I can remove offending roots in the middle of the root mass. Those are limiting your plant now or will be in the future. There is no way around that fact other than by getting into the roots and correcting the problem. This offers the advantage of making it much easier to prune roots in subsequent sessions. If you decide to go forward with the bare-rooting, I can offer more specific help or refer you to threads where I advised others on the same procedure. You can always change the objective if you think it's going to be more than you're willing to handle & only do part of the work. I've worked on a LOT of trees where the roots were too contorted and intertwined to completely correct in one session, but I eventually manage to completely bare root everything I grow that's woody. Ficus love the heat, but they don't especially like their root temperatures much above 90* - or their growth slows dramatically. You'll probably be ok to go ahead now if you shade the plant, even if temperatures are higher than 90* - the evaporative cooling from the moisture in the soil will lower soil temps 10-15% below ambient if the pot is shaded. W/o seeing your tree, I'm guessing that if it's in a 10 gallon pot now, when your done repotting it could probably go back in a 5 gallon pot. Certainly 10 gallons is more than enough to sustain what you describe (unless I'm missing something) for many years. Please be sure not to over-pot - especially if you're using a peat-based commercially prepared soil. While there are things you can do to help deal with an overly water retentive soil, it's better for the plant if you don't have to. Al

Was it in full direct sun in its former life or in the shade? Light coming through glass is filtered even if the glass is clear, so if got significant outdoor sunlight befdore you got it, overwatering seems more likely than sunburn. So, how do you water? Does the pot have a drain hole? The brown patches look just like the photos in the other FLF threads on the first page of this forum (and dozens more on the pages after that), almost every one of which is due do overwatering, so don't feel like you're the first person to have the issue. I almost feel like starting a thread aimed at new FLF owners! Anyhow, the goal is to control soil moisture so the roots don't die from drought or suffocate from lack of oxygen in saturated soils. I'll bet the soil in that pot is very fine, peaty, water retentive potting soil that stays saturated in the bottom half of the pot long after the top inch or two is bone dry. The good news is that there's an easy, quick and reliable way to check soil moisture and prevent any more drowned roots. Here's a thread about caring for sick plants that will explain what's going on, and here's an excerpt from a post by tapla (Al) specifically about when and how to water. Try his method and your plant will love it. And don't hesitate to ask more questions! "You can tell you've watered too much (or too little - the response is the same - a drought response) when leaves start to turn yellow or you begin to see nutritional deficiencies created by poor root metabolism (usually N and Ca are first evident). You can prevent overwatering by A) testing the soil deep in the container with a wood dowel ... wet & cool - do not water, dry - water. B) feeling the wick & only watering when it's dry C) feel the soil at the drain hole & only water when it feels dry there. Soils feel dry to our touch when they still have 40-45% moisture content. Plants, however, can still extract water from soils until they dry down to about 25-30%, so there is still around a 15% cush in that plants can still absorb considerable moisture after soils first feel dry to us. Water slowly until the soil is saturated but no water (or very little water) has exited the pot drain. Wait 10-15 minutes and water again so at least 15-20% of the volume of water used ion both applications flushes out the accumulating salts. After the pot stops draining, you can return it to its normal spot and arrangmt. Wait until time to water again & repeat the routine."

I only have edible figs, but I see you have advised people with houseplant figs over and over that this forum is for edible figs. I started looking for where it says that, and don't see anything unless it's the word ficus. Up at the top where it says "This forum is for the discussion of figs, those plants of the genus Ficus." You might add edible in front of the word figs.

Hi Josie, people commonly have FLF issues originating from an inappropriate watering regimen and from an overly water retentive soil. If you search on the forums there are some great threads where Tapla (Al) shares his knowledge on soils and what makes for an appropriate mix for houseplants. Since it’s fall, it’s not a good time to repot plants. But it is a perfect time to learn all about the needs of your plant so you can repot it in spring. How do you water? How do you decide it’s time to water? To tell it’s time to water, take a sharpened wooden dowel (or chopstick) and insert it deep (all the way to the bottom) of the soil. If it comes out moist and with dark soil, don’t water yet. If it comes out clean and dry, it’s time to water! Check every couple of days. When it’s time to water, good watering practice is to water until water flows freely out of the drainage holes in the bottom of the container. Also, FLFs love lots of light. It should be right up in front of your brightest South facing window, unobstructed by blinds or curtains.