Ya gotta relax, man! You are WAY overthinking this. All you need to do with St Aug sod is keep most of it alive until it has chance to grow some decent roots. After that, it will spread aggressively and thicken up. If you had a few sprigs of grass here and there that died, it is perfectly normal for there to be a fungus working to decompose them. You want there to be that kind of fungus in your soil. The "bad" fungi (as far as grass is concerned) are almost all very tiny. They only way you will know they are there is from discolorations of the leaves and possibly a powdery residue on the leaves (depending on the fungus.) The best thing you can do right now is just mow regularly and water enough to keep the soil moist but not not soggy.

I interest about Foliage Anthurium. Do you have the seed? I look for the seeds of anthurium, like anthurium superbum, anthurium reflexinervum, anthurium radicans, anthurium jenmanii, anthurium luxuriens, anthurium brownii,anthurium oxycarpum, anthurium trinerve. If you have the one, could you please give me about some information. Please give me the detail including the price if FOB Yogyakarta Indonesia. Requests information as soon as posible.

Nope. They're something else.

Guess I left a lot out. Mowing height. There is never any reason to mow St Aug lower than the mower's highest position. I experimented with letting St Aug go unmowed for years at a time. Yes it was an experiment and not lazy. It grows up to 32 inches and then stops growing. As I mowed it down I think I liked it best when mowed between 9 and 12 inches. Insect pest control. When you have been organic for awhile, you will find very few pest problems. Why? Because when you are not poisoning the insects the predators seem to come to your property to feed. You'll see birds, toads, lizards, insect predators, and some other critters keeping Nature in balance. Sometimes things happen, though. Grubs are the offspring of the beetles that usually swarm your porch lights in late spring. If you did not have enough to cover your lights, then you likely won't have any issues. But if you're still afraid, dig up a square foot of turf and look for them. If you don't see more than a dozen, you're fine. If you see uncountable numbers, perhaps your barfing all over them will fix that one spot. But what about the rest of the lawn? I would use an organic critter called beneficial nematodes. These are not the root knot nematodes that plague the south. These guys introduce a disease to the insects that essentially paralyzes them right away. I get the Guardian Lawn Patrol brand from a company out of Colorado. Make sure the yard is saturated with moisture before you apply. Nematodes need a film of water to move around and find the insects. Those will take care of fleas, too, but not ticks. Ticks can be attacked in January with the beneficial nematodes. The BN only work in the soil. In the spring ticks emerge from the soil so the BN don't catch them. Are chickens an option??? As for fire ants, as of yesterday I have a new approach. Fire ants are not sugar ants. In fact they will not survive an attack of too much sugar. So up until recently I have used molasses, about 3-4 ounces in 5 gallons of water, and drenched the mound. That worked to move the ants somewhere else. This week I added a little booster to the mix. I put in a packet of bread yeast and let that yeast grow in the water for about 20 minutes. Then I drenched the mound. I'll need to check again next week, but that ant hill is gone with no new life that I could see in the vicinity. Many ants are farmers. They bring very specific materials to their ant hill homes and deposit that stuff in their chambers. Then very specific mold and bacteria grow on the feed they brought in. The ants do not eat the food material directly but they eat off that mold and/or bacteria. When you disrupt their farming operation by introducing foreign substances, that contaminates their crop and they starve. Sugar is one of those substances with fire ants. My guess was that yeast would further contaminate their crops. I hope I'm right, because it is a very organic approach. And yes, applying a chemical insecticide will damage the microbes in the soil. One class of microbes are called microarthropods (which is probably Latin for tiny insects). If you use insecticide it takes out a lot of that class along with all the beneficial things they do for the soil. They will rebuild their population, but it is just as easy to use some other means to deal with pests. I've been organic in San Antonio since 2002 and have not seen one insect issue in that time. Even the roaches seem to have gone away.