How small are these squashes that dry out? Is it possible that they are not pollinated? Try pollinating by hand. Take a small artist brush and swirl it around the inside of a male flower, then take the now pollen filled brush and do the same inside one of the female flowers. See if that helps.

I'm right there with you - my Burpee's butterbush started out with 4 female flowers and no males around to pollinate them! It broke my heart. I had some nearby acorn squash male blooms that I tried to pollinate with, but it didn't work. But within a week or so I had a couple male flowers with no females at the time! Argh. Within a couple weeks of those first females, I finally had males & females at the same time, and it's obvious that the two females were pollinated because the fruit started growing immediately - they were noticeably bigger by the next day! There are more coming up. What a soap opera in the garden!

The technique for saving the seeds is not that difficult. Allow at least one squash to ripen on the vine, cure it for about a month after picking (which will improve seed vigor & storage life), then remove the seeds. Clean them as thoroughly as possible, then dry them until the seeds snap easily when bent. Keep them in an airtight container in your fridge for the best storage life. But the real issue may be whether the seeds are worth the trouble. I am assuming that the squash was not a hybrid - if it were, the seed would not breed true next year, and should not be saved. The main problem with saving squash seed is cross-pollination. Bees love squash blossoms, and will travel great distances for them. Spaghetti squash will cross with zucchini & most summer squash, acorn squash, most pumpkins, and small ornamental gourds - plants very commonly grown by gardeners. If you are in an urban area, or near other gardens (within 1/4 mile, and possibly more) the chances of crossing are very high. If you wish to save seed, you would need to blossom bag & hand pollinate, to eliminate the possibility of crossing. There are several good threads on GW about this technique. If you are certain that there are no other gardens within the distance mentioned above, this may not be necessary - but I still recommend it, because bees sometimes travel over a mile for squash blossoms, and safe is better than sorry. There are several "weird squash" threads here that show the possible outcome, and Cucurbita pepo (which includes spaghetti squash) is the worst offender. While hand-pollination can be time consuming, you may only need to do it every 5 years or so, if the seeds are stored properly.

Kristenmarie - late to the party here but about the color mottling. Two things come to mind. One is a possible outcross of some type wherein the interior spaghetti-like character wasn't lost. These outcrosses can also cross with "normal" ones. That's only a problem if you are maintaining your own seed supply. If you are, then next crops could be even more mixed. The other reason could be effect of one of the viruses which affect squash. (Sometimes if the virus infection is light, the fruits could still be edible.) In case of virus, tho, the plants ought to be removed if possible to avoid further spread of the virus. Yes, normally the spaghettis do turn color, but the shell hardness, as mentioned previously, is the sign of maturity. The most mature at harvest should store the best. If you think some less mature, then I'd sell those for customers who intend to use them within a very short time.