Most around here, including me, will try to encourage people to avoid "scotts" grass seed mixes. They are far from being good by any means. I was trying to find the % of the Sun & Shade you quoted and all I could find is this.. "Scotts Select Turf "Sun and Shade" (50% Boreal creeping red fescue, 35% Ragnar II perennial ryegrass, 15% Alene Kentucky bluegrass). Boreal is a fancy name for common creeping red fescue. Although it is adapted to shady growing conditions, Boral has none of the bred-in advantages of improved fine fescue varieties. Ragnar II, like all perennial ryegrasses, has no shade tolerance. Alene is a common type bluegrass that ranks at the bottom of the NTEP trials." A further explanation of my statement above. 6-8 hours of sun is the standard for "Full sun", against the misconception of full sun truly being sun all day long. You could really use any of the three cool season grasses and do not need the fine fescues. However, like I said before, any of the newer varieties are not going to visually blend well if you have an old wide blade fescue. ..I also didn't mention the different growing rates if you are to put a KBG or RYE on the fescue. A few days after cutting, it will look uneven. Ultimately the best thing to do would be to kill of the whole thing and start over (assuming you do have an old course tall fescue), but if your really against that, I'd say to overseed it with a turf type fescue. Go to a local garden center for better seed.

I suspect that's too much shade under the trees. Bermuda will not be the best for that spot. Ideally you would have seeded the bermuda in mid June to have the warmest conditions, but this year was not cooperating with the rain and overcast. Still you should have fit it in in the heat of summer for best results. That is crazy about the tree. Is the tree on her property or yours or smack in the middle? Are you renting or do you own the property? I would suggest taking down the chain link at this point, but don't waste the money if you're renting. It is amazing how much difference the deep and infrequent watering process makes. Also if you have not fertilized recently, you might try organic. I use alfalfa pellets or corn meal from Ful-o-Pep on Roland east of WW White. 50 pounds should be under $15 or $10. Application rate is 15 pounds per 1,000 square feet, and it takes 21 days to see the results. With this cold front it might take a few days longer if you were to put it down this weekend. If you buy it now and don't use it all, go ahead and use it all anyway. You cannot hurt anything by overdoing these products. If you leave it in the garage over the winter it will be buggy in the spring. It's still fine to use, but just a little icky. So next April is the time to evaluate what you want to do with the back yard. I think it could be too shady for bermuda. If it seems slow to awaken and turns thin, then shade is the problem. The best place to get St Augustine is Milberger's Nursery at 1604 and Bulverde Rd inside the loop. They sell 14 pallets of St Aug every day, so it's always fresh. Lowe's and HD sell 1-2 pallets per week, and it always looks diseased. Milberger's is also about 1/3 the price of Lowe's.

I'm sorry if I come across an ass, but I am lost here. You post information detailing problems and concerns, you requested feedback, feedback is provided, you state the feedback will not be used and that you will continue doing what you are doing. Are you looking for different/alternative feedback other than "water you lawn" or am I missing something? Again, I'm sorry if I come across badly. I'm newer to the forums also but I have ever read any of the senior folks here expecting to get good lawn results without providing the lawn with basic needs. There are a number of folks here who do not water their lawn, especially in drought restrictions but they understand that their lawn will not look it's best. Looking at your pictures you can have a beautiful lawn if you just supplemented you're rainfall with water. You have areas of your lawn up against trees, mulch, concrete/pavement, etc. You have contours that result in runoff away from certain areas as well as contours onto certain areas. Unless you can eliminate all of the above, areas of your lawn will respond differently given the exact same amount of rainfall, hence the need to supplement areas with watering. If you mowed higher, yes you may require less water. If you used more organic fertilizers, yes you may require less water. If you added water retention amendments to your soil, yes you may require less water. But doing all of this may still result in some areas outperforming others due to you lawn's layout. The most easy thing to do may simply be to spend 5 minutes every week or two spraying a hose on areas that look a little stressed.

So this week 22 aug. i have been watering the lawn everyday. I plan on applying first application of weed grass killer on the following monday 29 aug and then watering again for a week and applying another application of weed grass killer. Hopefully then everything will be dead and i will have my soil sample back. Plan to scalp the yard dethatch and aereate then seed the tall fescue applying a starter fertilizer and covering with straw. Does this sound ok or does anyone see any possible issues or things i should or should not do that i did not mention. Any help is appreciated