Old Cast Iron Tub
Neel C
5 years ago
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GN Builders L.L.C
5 years agoRelated Discussions
Tile seal where it meets reglazed tub... order of work question
Comments (0)I am leaning strongly toward having my old cast iron tub reglazed a different color in my bathroom redo, and am wondering about the order that work should proceed in to ensure that the seal works well between the edge of the granite tile for the bath enclosure and the reglazed tub, and that it looks as good as possible. In short, I am wondering if it would be best to demo the old tile, reglaze the tub and *then* have the granite tile installed (protecting the body of the tub during tile work with tyvek and cushioning underneath while work progresses, using blue painters' tape to adhere that). (The bonus of this order of work is that we get to see what the initial reglazing looks like and if it's really not up to par, we have the option of ripping out the tub and buying new before the tile work proceeds.) If instead we have retiling done first, what should they do about the bottom tiles where they meet the top of the tub ... is there any issue in using the usual silicon sealant that would leave some visible line... such that it would be better to not seal, have reglazing done and then seal? (Or, what? I could imagine issues with that procedure too.) Thanks PS for those interested, as to the reglazing choice: While I've heard about the durability of reglazed tubs being an issue, it would be OK if we had to have (and could have) spot reglazing done every year or two. We've got a great, deep old cast iron tub (5'x30") that is fit very closely into the alcove but with not much rim space at all. All the other cast iron tubs I see that have nice depth are going to be a little wider ... and very expensive... and I'd prefer cast iron to Americast and do not want acrylic. No matter what we got new, I think there could well be some issues with needing to recenter the plumbing, possibly losing the right-hand ledge altogether due to width even on the 30" wide tubs etc....See MoreOld Cast Iron Tub, Small Tile Flange, and Tiling Question
Comments (6)I don't do tile for a living but I do have just such a tub, which I tiled around four years ago. I did not use any sheet metal (don't see the purpose), but I did use tar paper behind the cement board. I think stuck it to the (minimal) tub flange with something... a bit of roofing cement, maybe? I can't remember anymore. I used Hardiebacker instead of Durock for the tile substrate. I chamfered the back bottom edges of the Hardiebacker so that the inside faces of the backer could be a bit closer to the tub deck (since the flange is too thick to be pinched between backer and studs). I filled the gap between Hardiebacker and tub deck with clear siliconized latex caulk and let that caulk dry completely before proceeding with the tile work. After setting and grouting the tile, the vertical corners and the joint between tile and tub were caulked with sanded, color-matched caulk from the grout manufacturer. After a few days' curing time, the grout was sealed with Miracle 511. Four years later, the installation still looks great. If you caulk the space between the Durok / tile and the tub itself, how does the moisture get back to the tub? Grout and Durock / Hardiebacker are both moisture-permeable. They are "waterproof" in the sense that water doesn't hurt them, but they are not waterproof in the way that a fish tank is waterproof....See MoreDog bath station: convert old cast iron bath tub?
Comments (12)Why Sanitary napkins as shown in the photo? Also lotion? Are you going to do a hot water hook up to the tub? I know people who have had hot water hook up outside so they can rinse and wash the dogs before they come in the house. I always bring my boy in and use the warm water and sprayer in the tub. He jumps in and out by himself, does not slip on the non -slip bottom, but one of those rubber mats would work....See MoreOld Cast Iron Tub w/ Small Integrated Tile Flange
Comments (2)In this scenario what I do is I upgrade my backer to A product called WEDI specifically wedi for its dense rigid core & their premium sealant.. I fur the wall studs out to ensure my Wedi Board will pass over the smaller flange and set on the tub deck. I then use WEDI sealant to bond the wedi board edge to the tub deck being sure to get a very healthy bead of wedi sealant against the 1/4 flange and fully connecting the board to the tub deck leaving a permanently flexible waterproof joint. Once tiled properly I then fill the 1/8" tile to tub deck gap (change of plane) with pure silicone. Its all in the focused detailing....See MoreStarCraft Custom Builders
5 years agoweedmeister
5 years agoNeel C
5 years agodaisychain Zn3b
5 years agoNeel C
5 years agodaisychain Zn3b
5 years agowritersblock (9b/10a)
5 years agolast modified: 5 years agoNeel C
5 years ago
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