Looks like my Owari made it in-ground in 7b (central NC)
lucky_cloud
5 years ago
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calamondindave
5 years agoRelated Discussions
looking to move to NC.
Comments (21)Greetings! I too am researching NC and TN as possible relocation. Also VA and even Socorro NM. It all depends on jobs for hubby which really limits locations as he is in a very specialized industry. He may need to change careers and is close to retirement age so it's a huge challenge. We have a child in elementary school and the issue is mainly terrible education here. Also water quality problems with treatment causing serious health issues for me. For him the criteria is a mountain location or an area close to mountains with lower humidity. We are not skiiers so snow is not on our list...the less the better! But four seasons is something we really miss. We have heard SO much about Asheville and Boone. One friend came back from there, loves it and wants to go. She said it is full of NY'ers who are driving up real estate costs (she's in NY!) Yet another friend just came back and oddly enough said it's not for her but that I would like it?! weird. She described it as beautiful but a small hippie town in the mountains; nothing to do for her kids (boys into motorcross and hockey). I was assuming it was a BIG mountain college town, now I'm confused! I also looked into Knoxville but have read an awful lot about soil problems/clay? and weeds on this website. Lastly we are researching Charlottesville/Staunton area of VA. Close to mountains, but then I read it's flood zone! YIKES. help. Bottom line, we live at a high elevation in Hawaii, an unusual location similar to N. California/bay area, but dry. We would like dry as opposed to humid location though another friend says she is heading to Lake Norman near Charlotte! So many choices. BUT I know what I want in my future and last home: I am a garden nut. We are in a microclimate here so lavender thrives but too much clouds so roses and tomatoes do not. Not cold enough for even descanso lilacs. and What I want is to have LILACS which I miss desperately. And roses and herbs like I had in NY years ago. My husband can't tolerate the sticky humid summer weather of inland and coastal areas (naturally there are jobs for him in DC but he hates that climate!)We both want some acreage minimum of 2 acres and GREAT soil for gardening and milder winters. I killed myself here for the last 8 years fighting weeds which thrive 365 days year. Heavy snowfall and elevation seems to rule out Boone though we hear it's gorgeous? Grassisevil-any suggestions? I considered southeastern W VA where my Scottish ancestors settled back in early 1700; my NY snob mom tells me she has been there several times, around Greenbank/Pocohontas and that I will hate it, too redneck nuthin to do nobody to talk to. No culture. Too far from medical etc. Lastly-I want to be in an area where my daughter can learn her Irish and Scottish culture-and can get lessons in step dancing, bag pipe, violin. I play harmonica and would love to hook up with people to jam. SO that's a tall order I know, any suggestions would be so much appreciated. I spend hours online researching and I have learned so much from this website that realtors don't tell me! THanKS again and sorry to ramble....See MoreNC 7b Help picking a cherry tree
Comments (27)@Mamuang - Yes, Im still learning myself. I have a book that talks about it but i still cant see a huge benefit of one over the other. For the most part it seems like preferences with a slight benefit in one direction or the other. From what I gather Central leader will look better and is a more natural path for the tree that will yield more fruit, The open vase will allow better air and light penetration to the fruits and leaves and like you stated allows you to keep a tree at a certain height. But for one you need a latter and for the other you may not be as happy with the way it looks. @Drew - Ty for that link. I did watch a video on this prior to ordering and i must say im still a little confused by what they are trying to accomplish... not to mention that tree looks God-Awful lol. From my understanding it does boost productivity but you are sacrificing all aesthetic appeal. @ Meredith - I agree wider would be preferable to taller, but with it being a dwarf tree I dont think 8-ft is too tall... but then again... 10 foot wide by 6ft tall would be better :D Now that I think about it. I may choose an Open center and a modified central leader for the cherry but modify both processes. From that video I watched on the KGB style (I fi can find it again ill link it) one of the guys said that they discovered that by allowing one branch to be more vertical that the branches below it had a tendency to choose a more horizontal growth pattern. I'm thinking since I'm starting with a new whip I may just let the central leader grow as it is and top work it during the summer, while i establish my framework for Open Center. My goal is to keep it visually appealing but I want the tree to be wider than I want it taller 10ft wide by 6ft tall :D. I know it will take me more time and longer to get cherries but I think I want a healthy tree that can afford to grow cherries than rush the process and not get anything but firewood :P...See MoreMeyer lemon in ground in zone 7b?
Comments (16)Hi Parker, that’s interesting you mention grafting to another rootstock. There is actually a type of citrus tree directly next to the area I’d like to plant. I don’t know if it is wild, or was planted by previous owners (+ 12 years ago). It has the trifoliate (sp?) type leaf and produces two or three perfectly golf ball sized inedible fruit. It is the thorniest tree I have ever seen, so I just prune it to six feet tall or so, to keep it neat looking. The southern blight had no effect on it. So I suppose this might be a sign that a citrus rootstock may be able to survive - I could plant the original which is grafted. Thanks....See MoreAnyone growing Owari Satsuma in ground in zone 7b?
Comments (25)im growing Meyer lemon and Armstrong Satsuma in ground here in bixby ok. 7a. My technique is similar and based off of the guy Dave mentioned above. 25 C9 lights come on at 38F. I added a small heater that I only use when outside is below 15. The lights can maintain about 15 degrees above outside on their own. So far we have had several nights below 10. Covering is 2 layers of white frost cloth when its below 38 but above 20. Below 20 I add 1 plastic tarp and one green frost cloth. Water bottles are there to just help buffer the temps and add a little heat. Meyer is in full bloom right now. I plan to graft Miho and Dekopon/Sumo to the armstrong. mike...See MoreLaura LaRosa (7b)
5 years agolucky_cloud
5 years agoponcirusguy6b452xx
5 years agoLaura LaRosa (7b)
5 years ago
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