Help foe sloppy staining
Teri Ziegler
5 years ago
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Teri Ziegler
5 years agolyfia
5 years agoRelated Discussions
Anyone have to have their hardwoods re-stained?
Comments (15)Update: We met with another floor refinishing professional last night. They agree that there's too much red in the floors. There's also some color inconsistencies in ours. I'm not saying ours is the exact situation, but I just wanted to update the thread with more information for other readers. They have suggested another option for us which is less expensive than going back to bare wood, re-hand scraping, re-staining, and re-finishing. This guy is suggesting to tint the 3rd coat of poly. He will use a color with a bit more brown. Then, he will apply a top coat of clear polyurethane. He says it will not dramatically darken the floors, but it will take the pinkish red out and tone it down. The quote we received is 42% of the cost of a complete refinish. We will try to get permission from our GC to allow a test in an inconspicous area like our pantry or coat closet. Then, we will try to decide if that option is really worth the gamble. Of course a complete refinish is supposed to be more of a sure thing, but this option is so much less $$, and it will leave more of the life of the floors. Since we have hand scraped, we will loose quite a bit if they are refinished. They are thinking of using a poly tint of Antique Brown or Rosewood to tone down our Mesquite Red. I think the stain will be of a proportion around 1 cup stain to 1 gallon poly. Something of that nature, at least. Oh - this guy told us that the floors will darken naturally over time in some areas and bleach from sunlight in others...another thing that wasn't explained by our original work crew. If anyone has experience with this poly-tint technique, would love to hear. Hope that's not a thread hijack!...See MoreBest sink for sloppy dishwasher
Comments (7)I agree with what Breezygirl wrote; it sounds like you have been misinformed about Silgranit (and its price!). Silgranit is really tough. Won't scratch or stain. Can handle hot pots up to 500+ degrees. Also, how big is your base cabinet for the sink? If you feel you are "sloppy" as you said, then you should get the biggest sink you can fit. I also prefer a single bowl sink to avoid banging pans against a divider. The biggest Silgranit sink is the Blancodiamond Super Single #440194, which requires a 36" base. It can be undermounted or top-mounted. It has a useful corner drain too (allows more room under the sink because the drain pipe isn't taking up room in the middle). I recommend you get a Silgranit sink in anthracite or dark brown, which shows nothing. The lighter colors are good too, but will show more. We couldn't fit the 36" size, but got the next smaller size which is the Blancoprecis Super Single #440149. We got the anthracite color. The sink is really great, and always looks so clean, I have to remind myself to clean it sometimes. If you buy a Silgranit sink, make sure you buy from a reputable seller, because the careful packing and shipping is key to the purchase of a Silgranit sink. Homeandstone has the big Blancodiamond for $380 (free shipping). Always call first to see if they have it in stock, or when it will ship. Here is a link that might be useful: Silgranit Blancoprecis Super Single in Anthracite...See MoreHelp! Don't like my Stain Color
Comments (24)@JKH, just found this thread because of the same heartbreaking issue, what did you end up doing? Any advice? I feel the exact same way about my floors, was going for a custom stain on the darker side, but didn't want too dark, and wanted more gray tones than brown. See pics below of what I was I going for and what the floors needed up looking like (the sample looked ok on the floor when they finally got close enough, which was a painful process-lighter than we wanted but seemed in the same realm, but now looks totally different across the whole floor). Some angles look ok, but others are just strait up red brown which is literally my least favorite hardwood look, just a preference. I also ordered select white oak and got way more charactered boards than I anticipated, I wasn't expecting so much variation...contractor assured me it was select...but there were knots in a few boards, pushed as hard as I could and had to just move forward.! Anyway, just curious as to what some folks end up doing. How do I get the look I'm going for, are my expectations to our of what for what I want? Everyone, including the hubs says they look good, but they're just not what I wanted, no where near the look or my personal style. Wall colors, fireplace, etc. will be changing, but won't make me like the floors. Not sure I can live with them, but we also were on a timeline. Is it easier to sand newly stained floors, shorter process to sand and re-stain without the install and with new boards? Thanks everyone for any feedback!!...See MoreNewbie Sanding and Gel Stain Problems
Comments (1)Your methodology is wrong for staining a table top, you will never get a decent finish with a pre-stain and a gel stain, where did you get that formula? And your sanding grit is way too high at 320. That appears to be either a White Pine or Heart Pine top, correct? You need some scrap lumber to play with of the same type, to practice on and refine your formula and technique. It's a mistake to jump right in on the top without a solid plan. I would start again from scratch. The very best look on a pine table top is to not sand it, but scrape the wood down to bare using a scraper such as this one. Scraping leaves you a cut surface not a fuzzed one from sandpaper, and it will take the finish better (meaning brighter and more vibrant). No sanding after a full scrape. https://www.ebay.com/itm/KUNZ-Cabinet-Scraper-No-80/353100660118?_trkparms=aid%3D1110009%26algo%3DSPLICE.COMPLISTINGS%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20200220094952%26meid%3D806a4c1ddc6a4d1d9cc4fdef0b0f3636%26pid%3D100008%26rk%3D4%26rkt%3D12%26sd%3D133451929216%26itm%3D353100660118%26pmt%3D1%26noa%3D0%26pg%3D2047675%26algv%3Ddefault%26brand%3DKunz&_trksid=p2047675.c100008.m2219 Next you take some Orange Shellac Flakes and Alcohol and mix them up to a 50/50 cut until it all dissolves, Fresh shellac has a short window, so you want to complete anything in 24 hours after the mix. https://wellermart.com/products/copy-of-dewaxed-orange-shellac-flakes You need some Lockwood powered dyes, which you will also mix. I usually get two colors and wind up blending them. Water soluble, you don't need much. https://toolsforworkingwood.com/store/dept/CLWW 1) Hand Scrape your top, go with the grain to the end. Blade has to be sharp and you will work up a sweat, the idea is to remove all prior stain and get to bare wood, and make the top as smooth as you can without sanding. 2) Take your Lockwood dyes on a rag (wear a glove unless you want a brown / orange hand for the next week) and apply with a rag. This just takes a few seconds, A light coat. 3) Come in with your Shellac, and put on a light coat with a good foam brush ideally, LIGHT - barely cover it. 4) Sand lightly (scuff sand) with 120 grit, just enough to knock down the nits. 5) Repeat steps 2 / 3 / 4 at least three more times. By the time you get to the third repeat you will begin to see color build and richness. When you are happy with the result, don't sand the final shellac topcoat. All these coats go on thinly, too. 6) Shellac is not waterproof, so to finish you put a light coat of Wiping Poly (satin) on it with a rag, with the grain. Now you have a pro finish that will stand the test of time, have depth, and beauty. Practice on a scrap first! Duane Collie...See MoreUser
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