Newbie Sanding and Gel Stain Problems

3 years ago

last modified: 3 years ago

I am refinishing my dining room table I sanded with 60, 150 and then 320 (the hardware store didn’t have 220 because of Covid) and then used pre-stain before applying gel stain. The problem is that the wood didn’t take the stain evenly. The stain was also very hard to apply. Now that it is drying, I’m also seeing parts that didn’t get sanded enough with the 320 so some parts are more rough than others. I plan to stencil on top of the dark stain, but it’s looking pretty sloppy to me (uneven stain and rough patches). Two questions - given that I’m planning on stenciling, would you try and fix these issues? If yes, then what steps would you take? Thanks so much. I appreciate the help.

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The KEEPING ROOM
3 years ago
last modified: 3 years ago
Your methodology is wrong for staining a table top, you will never get a decent finish with a pre-stain and a gel stain, where did you get that formula? And your sanding grit is way too high at 320. That appears to be either a White Pine or Heart Pine top, correct?

You need some scrap lumber to play with of the same type, to practice on and refine your formula and technique. It's a mistake to jump right in on the top without a solid plan.

I would start again from scratch. The very best look on a pine table top is to not sand it, but scrape the wood down to bare using a scraper such as this one. Scraping leaves you a cut surface not a fuzzed one from sandpaper, and it will take the finish better (meaning brighter and more vibrant). No sanding after a full scrape.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/KUNZ-Cabinet-Scraper-No-80/353100660118?_trkparms=aid%3D1110009%26algo%3DSPLICE.COMPLISTINGS%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20200220094952%26meid%3D806a4c1ddc6a4d1d9cc4fdef0b0f3636%26pid%3D100008%26rk%3D4%26rkt%3D12%26sd%3D133451929216%26itm%3D353100660118%26pmt%3D1%26noa%3D0%26pg%3D2047675%26algv%3Ddefault%26brand%3DKunz&_trksid=p2047675.c100008.m2219

Next you take some Orange Shellac Flakes and Alcohol and mix them up to a 50/50 cut until it all dissolves, Fresh shellac has a short window, so you want to complete anything in 24 hours after the mix.

https://wellermart.com/products/copy-of-dewaxed-orange-shellac-flakes

You need some Lockwood powered dyes, which you will also mix. I usually get two colors and wind up blending them. Water soluble, you don't need much.

https://toolsforworkingwood.com/store/dept/CLWW

1) Hand Scrape your top, go with the grain to the end. Blade has to be sharp and you will work up a sweat, the idea is to remove all prior stain and get to bare wood, and make the top as smooth as you can without sanding.

2) Take your Lockwood dyes on a rag (wear a glove unless you want a brown / orange hand for the next week) and apply with a rag. This just takes a few seconds, A light coat.

3) Come in with your Shellac, and put on a light coat with a good foam brush ideally, LIGHT - barely cover it.

4) Sand lightly (scuff sand) with 120 grit, just enough to knock down the nits.

5) Repeat steps 2 / 3 / 4 at least three more times. By the time you get to the third repeat you will begin to see color build and richness. When you are happy with the result, don't sand the final shellac topcoat. All these coats go on thinly, too.

6) Shellac is not waterproof, so to finish you put a light coat of Wiping Poly (satin) on it with a rag, with the grain.

Now you have a pro finish that will stand the test of time, have depth, and beauty. Practice on a scrap first!

Duane Collie
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Newbie Sanding and Gel Stain Problems

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The KEEPING ROOM

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