I have the similar vexing combination, mine of wild raspberry vines and oriental bittersweet. It's one of the reasons I feel so strongly about using native non-invasive plants, because these species and ones like them, your honeysuckle for example, make our life as gardeners so hard and destroy so much of the natural flora (and ultimately fauna). Anyway. I would actually recommend a full on assault to your invasive forest because it will invade your gardens. I am not a proponent of chemicals but this may be a case for them. I copied this from a website on controlling invasive plants: Glyphosate herbicide (tradename Roundup) is the recommended treatment for this honeysuckle. A 1.5-2% solution (2-2.6 oz of Roundup/gallon water) applied as a spray to the foliage will effectively eradicate Japanese honeysuckle. The herbicide should be applied after surrounding vegetation has become dormant in autumn and before a hard freeze (250F). Roundup should be applied carefully by hand sprayer, and spray coverage should be uniform and complete. Do not spray so heavily that herbicide drips off the target species. Retreatment may be necessary for plants that are missed because of dense growth. Although glyphosate is effective when used during the growing season, use at this time is not recommended in natural areas because of the potential harm to nontarget plants. Glyphosate is non-selective, so care should be taken to avoid contacting nontarget species. Nontarget plants will be important in recolonizing the site after Japanese honeysuckle is controlled. Crossbow, a formulation of triclopyr and 2,4-D, is also a very effective herbicide that controls Japanese honeysuckle. Crossbow should be mixed according to label instructions for foliar application and applied as a foliar spray. It may be applied at dormant periods, like glyphosate, and precautions given above for glyphosate should be followed when using Crossbow. Either herbicide should be applied while backing away from the treated area to avoid walking through the wet herbicide. By law, herbicides only may be applied according to label instructions and by licensed herbicide applicators or operators when working on public properties. After eradicating as much as you can I would actually erect a fence as a nice backdrop to your flower beds. Patty

I have had two water incidents on my hardwood floor in my kitchen and first floor area. One was a dishwasher leak that was not discovered for not sure how long. It wasn't until the hardwood boards began to curl that I noticed it. (The leak was from under the dishwasher so the water ran under the hardwood, not on top when I could see it.) The boards curled on the edges in an area of about a square foot. We had the leak fixed and once the boards fully dried, they laid back down and you cannot see where it happened. The next incident was much worse and, again, once the boards dried, there is no evidence at all of an accident. Water overflowed the laundry room sink and seeped under the walls and soaked the hardwood floor in the hall outside the laundry room. Our floors were refinished before the incidents and they used Bona Traffic. I know you said your wife is completely against hardwood in the kitchen but it is very practical. We have big dogs who dribble water on the floor after they drink, track in big snow balls on their feet in the winter and humans who spill things on the floors and ours have never been affected by these types of spills. I am prejudiced against tile, though, because I hate the way the grout looks in the traffic areas and I hate trying to keep the grout clean.

Following up with some updates and (I think) a more accurate representation of our space. Benjesbride and Sena, I am especially hopeful to get your input since you've helped flush out the bad ideas and suggest so many good ones!!! - changing the entry from the back of the kitchen to the front is no longer an option. It has to remain where its pictured, but can be shifted right or left as needed. - extending the wall parallel to the powder room also not an option since we are putting in a window on that back wall and the extended wall would block any light coming in - items in yellow are the variables - shifting doors, reconfiguring bathroom size, closing up a window, adding a new one - the two small black squares along the top and bottom lines of the drawing represent a bump out that will require a space between cabs or to notch out the backs of whatever cabs get placed in front of them - 48 inch window: I would like to plan around the stages 45 sink so I am hoping I can get a trash pull out in the space partially under the sink and over to the right, allowing the DW to placed to the left of the sink - for the proposed entry storage I would like it to blend with the kitchen but to serve as a mudroom type area: full height, mostly closed, lockers/cabinetry for coats, hats, scarves, backpacks, some shoes, etc. plus some drawer stacks for junk, mail , keys, charging devices, etc. - I want an island desperately, but starting to see that I may not be able fit it. I am open to a small or narrow island, or even an L- shaped one ... OR .... a peninsula if it gives me a smarter space - I need seating for at least three people, but the husband insists it not be in the pass through space at the side entry - appliances include a 36" range, range hood, and a 30" single wall oven. I don't care much for the microwave, as long as its in there somewhere - hidden or under mounted is great. - pantry ? - maybe - BIG maybe - if it were substantially justified, I could take a few inches over on the right from the dining room. That wall is not load bearing and I would be willing to knock it down and rebuild if the small space gained (under 12") made possible something that would not otherwise work. please and thanks!

Could you add a current photo from the perspective of the first and last ones without the equipment and shrubs there so we can see the steps from head on? Also, I would love a photo of what is to each side of this photo, so standing in the same spot as the top photo, swing your body left and take a photo, and swing right and take a photo. Location of parking, the driveway, and trees which create shade are a few things that might influence the placement of plants and the walkway. If it is possible do this when the front of the house isn't in shadow or take the photo on a cloudy day or just use software to lighten the shadows in the photo, that will help. Removing the flat line of shrubs was a good choice, but you will want some shrubs, including some evergreens rather than just flowers in your new beds so there is some winter interest. Where are you (nearest large city) and what growing zone? What direction does the house face?