I think nobody responded, because this is a matter of personal taste. I have wood blinds to my windows, too. My window wells are a foot and a half deep, so it was easy to make the decision to do inside mounts to show off the wood. I did put rods at the top of the windows and sewed balloon valances, and I pull the blinds up entirely during the day so that they are not even visible. Unless you buy custom sized blinds you will be locked in to various widths and may not have a choice exactly how much of the window frame you choose to leave exposed. If you don't give the blinds an inch or two overlap onto the frame, you will find in old houses the windows may not be exactly plumb, and you will see a gap on the side with the blinds let down. This definitely will bother your O/C tendencies, even if you don't have them. So, you may want to take a plum bob to see how stract your frames really are. If they're not perfect, you may want to size the blinds to overlap the window opening an inch or so on each side.

Is there wood support underneath the metal corner bead? If so, there shouldn't be a problem if you carefully pre-drill the screw holes. If there isn't any wood behind the corner bead, could you pre-drill larger holes to use the plastic re-enforcement sleeves to support the screws? Having hung dozens of types of blinds and/or hardware on many different military houses / dorm rooms, I don't think your window frames should be too much of a problem.

Window treatments DO NOT have to be the same for every window and room. Style wise they should match in the sense that you don't want one window to have ultra modern curtains and another to have super traditional ones. It's hard to give you specific advice without seeing the windows or rooms but roman shades are pretty universally liked and have a variety of styles and colors that work with just about any home style.

That is not correct unless I am missing something. First of all, they are available only on the casements with an operator (not push out). The shade and screen (behind it) are in one unit that sits in the same slot that houses a screen only on the interior. I would do a couple of things: use the dealer locator on the website and find a dealer in your area that has them on display. Have in hand the serial number from the glass (usually upper right corner from interior). It should be a ten digit number beginning with a letter and then 16..., 17...,18.. (the year of manufacture). Have a magnifying glass and a step stool and the easiest thing to do is to read to someone else to transcribe and then have them read it back. This will give Marvin "all" the information on your window(s) and a shade can be ordered. You will need a new screen if you now have one as it is a different size. The interior wood of the shade will match your window and there are fifteen different fabric choices (including some blackout) to choose from. These are all Hunter-Douglas quality fabrics. The shades are not inexpensive but competitive with after market choices without some of their drawbacks like you are experiencing. Good luck and let us know if this works.