Crocosmia, I have also had the same problem as you in that bulbs do better in the center of my beds than along the edges. Mine are all interplanted with perennials and even shrubs. I think that this provides them better drainage. I have learned to live with the occasional (well actually fairly frequent) slicing of the bulbs by my shovel. My daffodils are planted in circles or semi-circles, or behind many of my daylilies, especially those that are seen from some distance. The daylilies do a great job of hiding the dying daffodil foliage. I try to leave some room for growth of the daylilies, but in any case the daylilies seem totally unperturbed by the bulbs, even though I am unlikely to give them the foot of space :~) that at botanical garden might - I garden in a small area & everything is crammed. Some orange daylilies I like are Backdraft (orange with red eye), Egyptian Spice (amber orange blend) Orange Velvet, Orange Vols, & Tuscawilla Tiger. There are lots more available! Most of my daffodils, however, are planted around in my red daylily/shrub bed at the back of my yard. In my small orange daylily bed I used a different method that you might find interesting. I use minor bulbs all in shades of blue. Smaller bulbs like Ipheon, Scilla, Chionodoxa, Iris reticulata & such can go much closer to other plantings and only need to be planted 3-4 inches deep. I actually planted all the bulbs when the bed was first made and the daylilies had not been chosen yet, poked them in with my finger. I then partially buried upside down nursery pots in the bed to mark the daylily spots and let the bed rest until the following spring when my daylilies arrived in the mail. It was a sheet of blue in the spring. Many minor bulbs can also go in shade areas around hostas for example which come up very late. If the shade is from deciduous trees, these bulbs can easily finish their cycle, and get enough nourishment to bloom and spread around, before the trees are leafed out. So look around at all those areas too and plant more bulbs! Don't overlook miniature daffodils they can be tucked in here and there and everywhere and the foliage disappears so much faster than full-size daf foliage. Please see my pictures in the thread Tulips return. Over the tulips in the first picture, I usually plant portulaca as someone in this thread mentioned, or some other low water annual. I am always afraid I'll do something stupid and these perennial tulips (still going strong in 4th spring) won't come back for me. Most tulips are strictly annuals in my garden. I also have the tulip area edged in Blue Fescue Grass, and use the small blue Sedum sieboldiana and blue Myrtle spurge (Euphorbia myrsinites) & other dry plants like Geum coccineum borisii (bright orange which you would really like) which do not thrive in my dense wet clay, except in this raised gravel bed. Blue and orange is one of my favorite combinations! And while there aren't many cold zone early spring bulbs in orange, there are plenty of blue, whites & yellows. Tried a pretty in-between size daffodil this year called Bantam that you might like. It's a very neat & compact bright yellow daffodil with a ruffled orange edge on the cup. There are many others with this color, but the size is more unique. Oh, and there are lots of hardy lilies that come in orange, can't forget them. Anyway have fun! Sorry this is so long, I get carried away when I get enthused about things. LOL

boday, I had heard similarly re P. Polymorpha. So I planted one a couple of seasons ago in a less than sunny location. It has done just okay. But in fact if it did very really well it might actually be too large for the spot! They can grow huge. ----------------------------- I have a polymorpha that started out as - "I wonder if it'll grow here"? to "I wonder if it'll work as a focal point for the whole yard". - (Big yard). So, I can chop some rooted branch and experiment. Trying to establish sight lines, distance and close ups is a big challenge. Astrantia Roma looks great close up, thirty feet away is just a pinkish blob. Five plants disappear.

Issue 1: Succulents and moss don't go well at all together. It holds in moisture where the succulents want it the least. Does the pot have a drainage hole? Issue 2: Your succulent doesn't have enough light to maintain a healthy stem that can support itself. Usually these are full sun plants. Issue 3: Too much water. It sounds like these plants have rot. In this case, its best to cut the rot away until you reach healthy, green stem. Then, let it callus for a few days before planting it in a pot-this time without moss and more light if possible. Rot can spread up the plant, so its best to do this asap. Good luck!

I agree, the light fixture needs replacing or remove it altogether. I can't see your floors, but my suggestion is to keep this room as a sunroom. I would lay tile for your floors. Now is the time to find outdoor furniture on sale so I would suggest a small table and chairs or two nice rattan arm chairs with cushions and make this a relaxing place to read or relax with drinks. In the alcove what about a nice bookshelf for books and accessories? Wall color should be a light neutral.