To start with, this is enough off topic that you might not get as wide a range of answers and attention as you would if you posted a new thread with this question. Please understand that I am not telling you to go away; I'm only telling you that a new thread might get your clearer and better informed answers to your specific questions. Okay, that having been said, it seems to me that maybe you need to have oven temperature control and cycling explained so that we can rule out or rule in the possibility that the microprocessors have been toasted by the self-cleaning cycle. First thing is this: oven preheat signals are lies, pure and simple. They only measure the air temperature in the oven but what you need for even and proper baking is to fully preheat the cavity (oven walls, celing, floor, etc.) That takes longer than the "preheat." In most ovens (including those in GE Profile ranges) "fast preheating" is advertising hype and bragging rights, not reality. Here's how an oven works, electric ovens in particular. (I say all of this from having owned and used a GE Profiile DF range for a decade and something. If you already know this, then just take this as putting us all on the same page for discussion.) You turn the oven on and set the temperature dial/touchpad to say, 350F. With an electric oven, and some gas ovens, both the top (broiler) and bottom (baking) elements come on. (And, with some newer convection ovens, the rear "convection" element also may come on.) The air temperature climbs and the walls etc. also start to heat up. When the air temp hits 350F, the sensor says the oven is preheated. Except that it is not. Most of baking is actually done with ehat radiating from the walls fof the oven cavity, not the air termperature. (Mhyrvold's Modernist Cusine website and book explain this in great technical detail if you want the geeky details.) What actually happens is that the bottom and top burners continue running until the actual air temp climbs a lot. In your case, it apparently climbs another 50F. Then (hopefully) it shuts off. Trouble is, if you put your baked goods into the oven when the preheat signal goes off, the top burner is still hot and likely is still operating. At this point, you might as well put your pie, your roast, your whatever under the broiler. The top will burn. OTOH, if you wait a few more minutes after the air temp hits the programmed max and the burners shut off. The air temp starts to fall, Your oven cavity's walls are picking up heat and catching up with the air temp but are not there yet. Another four or five minutes -- maybe ten with some ovens -- and the air temp falls to 325F or even 300F. One or more burners come on again. And, once again, the temp goes above your set point. It might go 50F above or it might go a bit less this time. My vintage 2000 GE Profile DF would go 50F above and then drop 50 below, then go 40 above, then cool to 40 below, then go 30F above and below. As best I could tell, the top element was used only in the initial run up but your newer stove may do this a bit differently. It would cycle maybe 25F above and below using only the bottom and convection heating elements, After about 30 minutes, it would reach a sort of equlibrium and the temperature would average around the set-point. Basically, most ovens take 20 to 30 minutes to actually stabliize at a baking temprerature. Now, if your oven is now running 50F above the set point, but not otherwise failing to work, it is possible that the observed symptom would have been the result of damage caused by the self-cleaning cycle but not probable. My experience is that when something goes wrong from overheating during or as a result of a self-cleaning cycle, the failure is typically catstrophic. Such as, the oven stops working altogether. To me, a more likely and simpler culprit is that the oven calibration has drifted. Is the oven running consistently 50F over the set point after a 20 to 30 preheat? If the oven is consistently too hot (after giving it at least half an hour to properly preheat), then I would look at the use and care guide in the section on adjusting the oven termperature settings. Hope this helps get your started o sorting out the problem. This post was edited by JWVideo on Mon, Feb 10, 14 at 13:12

Thanks Thusie; Repairclinic was one of my first ventures...I pored over their 481 (to be exact) igniter styles and found no BlueStar matches.....Before I write them off, I will call them...as you say, they are known to be phone-responsive..... Thull....I tried the penetrating oil...problem is, the flange on the igniter is covering the screw's hole entirely, and the whole unit is torqued down, dis-allowing any penetrating oil to even get to the threads.....Upon examining the snapped screw, I can see the screw body has "become one" with the cast iron...don't think oil can even get in there...Another problem arises in the fact that it is a blind hole....(only access to one side of the hole) Since I now know I need at least three igniters, I'm going to heat the screw with a small torch...this seems to be the most efficient way I've found... Thanks for all the input here...I'm not giving up yet....even looked into repairing/reglazing the hairline cracks....(was told to try this from one of the many igniter dealers I talked to)

DH has used glass beer mugs for his coffee for years. He likes the large handles and the large capacity, and we hand test them before buying for good balance. We have had no issues with the glass and hot liquids. They do double duty as cold drink mugs as needed. I mostly use local hand thrown mugs, but with a similar capacity and similar handle shape.

Juice glasses--check out the Rings glasses at Crate and Barrel--the smallest size, although I think the other sizes are good too. 95 cents apiece!! My kids use these everyday, PLUS they were so cheap I copied a friend of mine and bought eight dozen for a Christmas party one year. We use them for wine and champagne, bistro-style, and I love that we are not using paper that will just get thrown away. It's a little investment but have a few parties and they will pay for themselves :) plus they fit in the dishwasher much more easily than wine glasses, and are easier to store. (They also stack, another plus.) For bigger glasses I like the "working glasses" from Crate and barrel, and probably other places too: http://www.crateandbarrel.com/family.aspx?c=150&f=1693&q=lids&fromLocation=Search&DIMID=400150&SearchPage=1 You can buy lids for them and use them as refrigerator storage. It's nice when something has two functions and isn't plastic :) Here is a link that might be useful: Rings glasses