I think the reason this isn't normally done is due to waterproofing issues. Generally when you get a tile guy who knows what the heck they are doing to build a shower with a bench for you, they build the bench INSIDE the of the shower pan out of masonry (CMU most of the time) and it becomes like one big monolithic unit. If you are doing this with a shower base, you obviously can't do it that way. That said, I had a similar condition, just not the neo-angle shaped shower base. I did not want to deal with 1) finding a competent tile guy who I trusted enough to build a second floor shower base for me after we gutted this bathroom due to a leak in the first place and 2) deal with having to clean grout in the shower base (in my experience it's the grungiest part of the shower) but I did want a bench. What I did is probably not approved by all of the tile guys on john bridge, I'm not sure what the ones around here will think, but I think it will work. We basically built the bench out of regular 2x framing, sheathed it with 3/4" plywood and then 1/2" durock and then waterproofed the whole thing with Kerdi membrane. It's pretty much rock solid though. The bottom of the bench acts as the 4th wall, and then it turns back to make the bench and then continues upward. I don't have great pictures, but here's the best one I have: I don't think this is a smart thing to do with anything other than kerdi for your waterproofing - the chances of a catastrophic failure are just too high. I think the big thing that tile guys might disapprove of is the potential lack of rigidity of the wood frame bench cracking the grout and/or tile. I don't know if this is an even bigger issue with larger tile, I'm sure someone will weigh on on it though. I just know the princess (moi) wanted what she wanted and this was the only way she could have it ;). We just overengineered the heck out of the bench. BTW I saw a neo-angle shower with the bench at once side in a display at an Expo store once and I thought it was the nicest neo-angle shower I've ever seen.

Dugiotok -- That's actually a half-wall (the 1-10 in. measure that's shown as a crosshatched pattern. Glass above, tiled (inside) and beadboard (outside) wall below. The contractor said (I think) that he could turn the studs sideways to make that half wall a little thinner than the standard, but it'still a framed wall. We weren't comfortable with having a full glass wall immediately across a relatively tight from the toilet, in case someone pitched headfirst into it after a few margaritas... We actually started with the vanity and toilet reversed (which is how they currently are in the existing bath) but flipped them to give more knee room in front of the toilet. (Moving plumbing is easy because there's open crawl space under this bath and everything is very accessible.) We thought it was awfully tight, especially for someone who was large or long-legged. I'd much rather have the sink closer to the door (it's a beautiful "eurolav" in a furniture base) but we just couldn't make that work with comfortable leg room in front of the toilet (which will be a Toto Guinevere -- we need the Guinevere because we want ADA height and a skirted unit). We could reduce those shelves -- or get rid of them entirely. They were 12 inches wide at one point but shallower; I think as long as they are deep enough that one reach them from the open area ('cause my hips, at least, are more than 12 inches across!), they could be quite narrow and still serve to store towels, etc. Would lengthening the shower the extra 6 inches but keeping it 2-10 in. wide give a significantly larger feel? Would that be enough to allow someone to step "out" of the spray if they wanted to? My entire kitchen remodel was less grief than this has been, but there I had TONS of space to work with -- makes all the difference! ;)

I believe neo angle showers are just a square with one corner clipped off. You would just measure out 4' on each wall then draw a line 90 degrees from that mark to mark out a big 4'x4' square on the floor with the corner in the corner of the room. Then draw a diagonal from the corner of the room out and move your tape back along it until you have 14" on each side. Connect those two marks for your "clipped" corner (make sure the two legs are even). 28" is plenty for a shower door.

Yes, with proper bracing and good caulking it is possible to put a pony wall on the edge of a neo-angle shower pan. However, I would highly recommend using a solid surface product for the walls and have the pony wall attached on three sides. Also assure that the wall is built thick enough to support the glass hinges. I would get the glass company involved at the start.