Boxerpups, the green paint is Kiwi from C2 (Kiwi C2-204 W). It's a bit brighter and yellower than I originally imagined, but I love it. I tend to gray down my colors more, but the family voted and this won. I think it will feel very springy in the middle of a cold New England winter. Odiegirl13, we decided to hinge the doors together, and it seems to be working well. I installed a catch on the open side, so the weight doesn't rest only on the hinges when the door is closed. The light rail also extends underneath the door, but there's been no sagging so far. We did change things around and are no longer using this cabinet for dishes and glasses. I put those in a drawer, and filled this cabinet with little-used items and plastic storage containers. We go into it maybe 1-2 times a day, rather than 8-10 times a day for dishes and glasses. Mdod, I'm not sure how much we saved. I got a quote from Home Depot for Kraftmaid on a slightly different layout (a couple more cabinets, but no drawers, pull-outs, soft-close, or full-extension) that was $11,600 for white-stained (not painted) doors, and another quote from Kitchen Craft (which I loved) on that same layout for painted doors at $15,300. I didn't bother taking this design anywhere else, because I knew I couldn't afford it. I did try to find a local custom shop, but the shops I found were much more high-end. I didn't know where to find less-expensive but good-quality shops. I knew I liked Ikea, I got a door from Scherrs and loved it, so that decided it for us. Nancyaustin, you're right that the space above the cabinets is about 3". I also wanted the molding to extend from the plane of the doors, not the plane of the cabinets. (I don't like the recessed-molding look.) We first filled the space with a piece of 1x3. We attached it to the soffit, but if we'd had an actual second row of cabinets, I would have made an L with two pieces, and attached it to the top of the cabinets. We used a band molding that was 1.75". (It's the same molding as is used as crown in other rooms of the house.) We put this on top of the 1x3 board. Here's a picture of what we did. I actually collected a number of pictures of ways to do crown molding on frameless cabinets, if you'd like me to email them to you:

Hey everyone... I had the same exact problem. Some of the thermofoil doors/cabinets started to peel on about 4-5 of my doors. I found a company that is amazing from California. I live in Boston but wanted to provide this info as they so far have been the best fix I could come by. The website is below: http://www.cabinetnow.com I purchased the Artesia RTF Cabinet Door - Frosty Satin White to match and then had the TSQ cut corner. I've attached a picture of the replacements. In my kitchen...can't noticed the difference. They also can do cabinet faces for the drawer fronts. It's the solid door front with TSQ edge. They will talk you through it. See attached photos. Hope this helps everyone with this same FRUSTRATING problem that I had. WAY better than replacing the entire kitchen cabinets! The second photo is an original next to a replacement. If you're staring at them you may notice a slight difference, but once up...seriously the same. Well worth it and reasonably priced. Shipped to my door. GOOD LUCK!

@ci_lantro 1) smaller sink - NO. Clearly you don't cook. Or at least you never do dishes. Plus, I have no idea why you even suggested that to start with. I don't NEED to put a smaller sink there because there is already plenty of room for a full size sink. A "smaller" sink that is still big enough to manage a few dishes isn't going to give me more than a few inches of extra countertop space at most. The ONLY reason to go to a smaller single bowl sink would be if there isn't enough space at the corner for an angle-mounted full size sink. But I'm 90% sure that there is, without cutting into the drawer unit next to the fridge there. I may have to cut into the stile about 1/4" though. I'll know better when I get the existing countertop off. Angled wall cabinet is not a problem as it can easily be cut down - or rather "up", perhaps. Remember this is actual wood, not the MDF crap that is all anybody can afford these days. As I said in the OP "I may or may not have to shorten that corner cabinet where it would hang out over the new sink area." I know, it was super long, but that cabinet is not an issue. I can do the same to the wall cabinets to the right there as well, if necessary. If it's a problem, it is easily fixed. In fact regardless of what else I do, I WILL be semi deconstructing that cabinet anyway to install a lazy susan as it is virtually useless as-is. 3) CANNOT move the fridge as you say without losing ALL the upper cabinetry on the opposite side of the room. From the OP "The entire expanse of wall cabinets along the long wall is one big long open space inside, ditto the 8' of cabinets on the opposite wall." Plus, the fridge is WAY deeper than the dishwasher and would stick out too far there. I didn't post a pic of that but it is next to an exterior door and putting the fridge there would block the passage through there. That wasn't mentioned in the OP simply because the fact that there is a wall cabinet over there (single unit 8' long) precludes doing that already. 4) putting a corner sink over the current "dead space" is an excellent use of that space. Since "under the sink" is already pretty much dead space. But if I WERE going to replace cabinetry there is no way I would leave that "dead space" dead, I'd at least put in a lazy suzan corner cabinet. "Dead space" should NEVER be left "dead". Unfortunately the kitchen backs onto the bathroom there (the toilet is on the opposite side of that wall) or I would have seriously considered cutting into that wall (NOT a supporting wall) from the back and gaining access to that space that way. Honestly I think those L corners are the best place to put a sink with the least wastage. Plus that space all the way back in the corner is already too hard to reach when looked at in the context of "working" counter space. Currently it just collects kitchen "driftwood" until I get fed up and clear it out again. But it is PERFECT for putting dishwashing accoutrements behind an angle-mounted sink, that you only need to get at briefly while doing dishes. In fact if this works out I'll be making a triangular dish draining "rack" to go there with a dish draining mat under it. PERFECT for doing dishes and not taking up otherwise usable working countertop space!

I deleted my comment, toyed around with it in IKEA's website and realized that if I moved the stove to the fridge wall I'd have to get rid of my lower cabinet and add 2 12's.... Not nearly as functional. There would be a plus to being able to see into the living room, but the negative is that I would always be in the way when I'm cooking. Our fridge can't go into the corner because of our heater, even beside the window is out because of that. I think I'm just going to be stuck with some filler pieces. At the end of the day, it'll be 1000x more functional than it is now. I do think that I'm going to move the microwave beside the fridge, and put a nice hood over my range. Will just have to adjust the height of my cabinets on the basement wall. ETA: Weird question... if I use 20 inch cabinets above the microwave, can I line up the bottom of that cabinet with the bottom of the fridge cabinet and have them at different heights? I can't find a taller fridge cabinet.... is there one? Kitchen with hood