This old thread got revisited. @dani_m08 to answer the question about extra probe, I believe I ordered an extra one when I bought the set up. The probe wire is just setting in the junction box I think but honestly I cant remember. When I laid out the underfloor heating and the probe, I just ran another probe near the first probe, and it was then sealed into the floor self leveling compound as per instructions. then the end was just threaded into the wall like the one that would be live, and not connected, but just laying there in the box. Regarding the tile layout. I just decided to run it this way, after getting instructions on the 90Degree way, IIRC. The herringbone that I love is from my childhood and the side walks in my neighborhood that all ran at 45Degree. so that to me is herringbone. I know you posted on @sochi thread about her amazing bathroom and a wall mounted faucet. I would totally do it if I had the right sink for it. In my case I had made my sink out of soapstone and an integrated backsplash. The pictures of this bathroom reveal are no longer available because of the use of photo bucket, when it was Gardenweb. I did not keep my account with photo bucket. I'll add some of the reveal pictures so you can see the sink and floor. Regarding the sink there is no ledge for water to drip from my hands when using the faucet. The water drips right into the sink. In my other bathroom with a deck mounted faucet I am always wiping up drips and it is a nuisance. I much prefer the setup for this sink. Below: I love the flush finish from the faucet to the bottom of the sink. nothing drips on a counter or edge of a sink. Below: looking in from the doorway. Below: Here I am finishing up the sink. the backsplash was epoxied on as a separate piece. The whole soapstone install in the room took next to nothing to buy as they were all small pieces that I epoxied together with a 3 part stone epoxy. Below: this is the counter at the tub, and is in 2 long pieces but I was able to epoxy them together at there edges to make a wide slab for the top. All the soapstone was finished with a 60 grit sandpaper to be rough and this lovely soft tone of blue/green/gray/white. I did not oil it so this color tone would remain light. Below: If I recall correctly @sochi helped me decide on this Hubberton Forge Mirror. I have 3 different metals in this room, but they are all a cool silver to black color. Below: the center of this tower shares space with the kitchen on the other side of the wall. there is also some extra space that houses some electrical wiring. this is an old simple house. this bathroom was an add on when it got move to the farm in the 30s IIRC. The plumbing was all rearrange and some of the details that were orignially there I kept but updated it, such as this tower feature. The old one went and the carpenter did a wonderful job with this one. Below: This feature was another thing I kept from the old bathroom but flipped it from the other end and had the carpenter put drawers in it. Before it was a hell hole. things got lost and the build was soooo old and creapy I didn't like using it for storage. Now it is perfect for storage.

benjesbride, one reason for rotating the shower and running it the width of the exterior wall would be to get rid of the existing half wall, which now creates a large dark area by the vanity. If I rotate the shower, I was thinking about putting both the shower head and the controls on the left hand wall. Stepping into the shower to turn on the water is not a big issue and I don't like the idea of having the shower head and the controls on separate walls. cpartist, thanks for the tip on the sliding glass doors. They certainly have changed over the last 25 years! I understand your point about a shower bench. Maybe a footrest or a couple of curved corner shelves would add a little bit of decor to that end of the shower, even though I doubt the spray from the shower head would reach that far. One question: How wide was the curb on your 3' x 6' shower?

Thanks enduring! I realized I used the wrong term above, instead of "hand bar" I should have said I am looking for a spot to put a "hand shower that is on a slide bar." Is that what you thought I meant? ;) Also I live in Tampa, Florida. It is 80 degrees right now, but I would say that every couple of years we get a "freeze" of some sort. The actual photo above is incorrect slightly because there is a 1/2 wall constructed where the opening of the shower is supposed to be. But, if I did the 1/2 wall next to the entry instead of full glass I definitely could put the valve there. Thanks for the tip re: freezing, I will ask our plumber about that! I would have never realized...

30" wide door 21" deep vanity (more storage) No partition/privacy wall needed for toilet. Toilet wall space should be 30" minimum to 36". With deeper 21" vanity, the toilet will be pretty well hidden without the need for a partition. Put all light switches at door near the vanity (except closet light)...that way you can turn them all off or on at once when you enter or leave. With a 11'-6" wide bathroom, I would go 36" minimum depth for your shower...32" is like a standard tub depth and will feel narrow with glass enclosure. 11'-6" = 138" 36" shower + 4" dam = 40" 30-36" toilet That leaves 62-68" for a vanity/storage. Since it's a master bathroom, I would consider doing double sinks in a standard 60" vanity. Forgo the tower storage. Use medicine cabinets above sinks.