- Angraecum didieri is a wonderful miniature, and suited for windowsills. Mine were never happy potted, so I'd recommend mounting or propping in an empty clay pot. - E. cochleata is not a miniature, at least by my def. My (late) plant was bursting from a 7" pot and the spikes ran at least 2-3 feet high. - Neo. falcata is also a great choice. Stays small, beautiful in all seasons. Probably the easiest to grow of those listed here. - Dendrobium unicum. A neat mini dend, only 3-4" high, 2" pot. Gorgeous orange flowers. Light more toward the lower, dend-phal intensity. Drawback: deciduous, so the plant looks like a cluster of dead sticks for about 5 months of the year. Positive: you can mostly ignore it during the winter. - Rupicolous laelias from Brazil, including L. milleri, briegeri, lucasiana, liliputiana, mixta, etc. Small plants (usually under 6") with nice flowers. Needs more light than the plants above, and will definitely need a summer outdoors. - Mini dend hybrid and mini catt hybrid people, what say ye? Gotta be some good, cast-iron miniatures out there. (Sorry for the powerpoint style post.)

I used to have one. Propagation of this species is mainly by seed, which has to be done with sterile culture. This method is useless for your purposes. They do send out basal growths sometimes that can eventually be removed and potted as a new plant, but people tend to leave these on their plants rather than remove them so they can have more flowers at a time. You can try to post on the trade page and let people know what you'd be willing to offer in exchange for one, and say you want either a keiki or a whole plant. But you'd probably have better luck just buying one from an online nursery. They are widely available.

The LED lights are from Ebay from a company called LED wholesalers INC. This will be the first time I use the lights for an application other than supplemental light. The lights come in varying wattages but I use the least expensive panels because I don't want to spend hundreds of dollars and I really don't need lights that are that powerful. A 90W LED light is the equivalent of 400-600W HPS light. A mix of red and blue LED's is the best for growth and flowering while white just adds extra brightness. The colour of the light is not very noticeable unless it's in a dark room and the lights run cool/warm instead of hot and are very slim and light which makes them easy to install. I also found some really cool LED aquarium lights that are a strip of lights sealed (water tight) in a tube and are used to simulate moon light at night. I may add two small strips to the inside of the tank to boost the blue portion of the light spectrum under the white panels. I want to see how things grow first but if they look like they need some more light I will invest in some aquarium lights. http://cgi.ebay.ca/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=380108250821&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT I think people could be upset with what they get if they don't do some research. If you want an extremely bright grow light you will have to spend the money. There are 1000W equivalent daylight panels out there but they are really expensive although prices are starting to come down slowly. So far I am pleased with my single red/blue panel and my Hoyas have been growing very well under it although they do get some light from a south facing window that is about five feet away. You do need to keep the plants as close to the panel as possible to maximize it's effect. My panel is quite high above my plants but I only wanted it to provide light to the taller plants as they climb their supports. What exactly were the negative comments about LED grow lights? I can always post my experience with these lights after a few months or some time during the winter. If my plants don't bloom or grow well we will know that they are not bright enough. Mike Here is a link that might be useful: LED Wholesalers INC on Ebay

Vladimir, all depends on the size of the tree. Rick, Claire is right. planting it now would encourage the tree to put on some new growth which most likely will not harden off by the time the cold weather arrives. i would store your trees this winter just like you have in the past and then get them in the ground once they break dormancy in the spring as long as there is no longer a threat of frost. All my trees are in 20 gallon pots with maybe 1 or 2 going into the ground possibly next year. all my trees are 4yrs old started from cuttings. as for fertilizer, i give them spring application right around the time they are starting to wake up using Joe Morles recipe. then roughly a month after that i start feeding them every other week with a liquid fish fertilizer called Organic Gem. I stop feeding them mid august just so that they don't put on much new growth. i also sprinkle a handful of garden lime 1-2 times during the season into each pot. once frost hits and all the fig leaves fall off i usually leave the tree outside to get a couple more light frosts to help harden off the new wood. once majority of the new green wood has turned brown, i bring them into my detached garage where they will stay all winter. i dont cover them nor do i provide any heat for them. matter of fact every time it snows its my sons job to place 2-3 grapefruit sized snowballs on each pot to assure that the soil never goes dry. it typically take up to a week for the snowballs to completely melt. sorry for the rambling....