Hi, I'm no expert, but I would think a terrarium would be too humid for hoyas. For the most part what I've read and learned here is most like to dry out between waterings.

I know there a quite a few here that root their cuttings in a terrarium, but I haven't heard of anyone growing them there.

One I do have that comes to mind is Lucanosa, from what I've learned it doesn't like to get too dry. It has smallish leaves that would also be ideal.

That's just my opinion, I'm sure the experts will chime in and lend some more helpful advise.

Humidity slows down moisture loss from leaves, and does make the medium dry out slower, but it does still dry out. I have a terrarium with mounted orchids, and I have to water them daily, because even in 85-90% humidity, the mounts/sphagnum moss dries out. I have a couple lacunosas, brevialata, and a dischidia currently occupying my larger terrarium temporarily, with humidity around 60%, and I still have to water them every couple days. Lacunosa might be fun in the terrarium, but I think its growth rate and hanging habits may not work in the long run. But who knows? I could give it a try. In a pot mounted to the back wall of the terrarium, it could cascade downwards, and just be trimmed every now and then.

Maybe I'm just looking for an excuse to try something new ; )

I don't think Lacunosa is terrarium material, I think it'd be too wet, but of course, I could be wrong & you could try.

I've grown a bit of Linearis in a terrarium (w/ the top open) & it did well. I've also grown Curtisii very successfully while mounted on bark, just hadn't realized I'd need to water it every day or 2 - was too high maintenance for me. But maybe if you were to mount some right next to the water feature, it'd be a happy camper. I'd try that if it were me.

I personally don't grow any hoyas in a terrarium...but I have read on this forum of others that grows Hoya Imbricata in a terrarium. I am no expert in hoyas either so I'm not sure if there are others hoyas that might do well in that type of enviroment?

Good luck

I looked around to see if there were any examples of terrariums with hoyas in them. I came across one with retusa and darwinii. Another one had bella. Microphylla was recommended as one that would be good for terrariums. One thing that's interesting to note is when you look for terrarium ideas, you're almost always going to encounter pics of frogs or large spiders! Some of these setups are amazing. But no spiders for me, thanks. And frogs are too high maintenance for someone without a car, unless I wanted to breed fruit flies (ick).

Curtisii does sound like a good candidate. I also really like retusa, but I don't know much about it. I haven't quite decided what I think of imbricata. It could work, though. Microphylla and darwinii seem to be tricky ones to grow, from a quick search and read on them. I'll have to research further to know more.

Watering every day or two is not a discouraging factor, really, since I already would have to do that anyway, although the drip watering system I'm thinking of should help me out there vastly.

There is some info in this old thread on terrariums and growing Hoyas mounted along with some fantastic photos on OrchidSource, there is instructions on how to find them. I am not sure if you have seen them or not yet.

I have a few mounted Hoyas and I also grow orchids in a terrarium but so far I only root my Hoyas in a tank and don't keep them in there for long. The problem is that many Hoyas end up being large plants, many of which climb but they grow very well in terrarium conditions. The most suitable Hoyas for growing mounted that will stay relatively small are Hoya curtsii, Hoya pubera/picta, Hoya pauciflora or any other small leafed hanging species and Hoya imbricata of course will do very well if given a cork mount to attach to. I would assume that you would have to trim the Hoya in time to keep it neat and tidy.
I think your terrarium sounds large enough to include a hanging Hoya, especially if it given a corner to itself so it can have room to grow. I have an 18x18x18 exo-terra terrarium and it works well for my mini orchids but I would want twice the height to add a Hoya in there.
It would be neat to see a Hoya grown mounted or in a tree fern or epiweb pot suspended near the top of the terrarium.

I am planning on either building or buying another terrarium but I want it to be at least 3 feet tall and two feet deep and across. My Hoya imbricata and a few Dischidias, orchids and maybe another Hoya or two will go in there. I have a bunch of miniature Bulbophyllums I want to grow mounted on some tree fern panels I was given by another orchid society member. I am torn on whether to attach the panels and cork to the sides of the terarium or to hang them some how. I would want to be able to take the plants out so that they can come along to orchid society meetings.

The only other terrarium I have is made with treefern totems and cork using the expanding foam method. This terrarium houses my Candoia carinata carinata, a miniature tree boa species from the Pacific islands. There are a few Pleurothallis plants, a Philodendron and a Gesneriad in there right now. I will be adding a /drip system to the next terrarium I put together because things can dry out quickly at times and automation for when I am away is essential. I do like the front opening style terrariums for ease of access for maintenance.

Here is the page showing how to build a vertically landscaped terrarium for mounted plants using GreatStuff expanding foam and wood or other mounting material.
http://www.blackjungle.com/gallery2/main.php?g2_itemId=2108

Definitely take a look at the nano terrarium photos in the gallery at the OrchidSource Forum website. I think it can be much less expensive to build your terrarium if you are handy. Even a adjustable stainless steel shelving unit covered and sealed with plastic would make a good environment for growing mounted Hoyas and orchids.

Mike

Here is a link that might be useful: Terrariums

A few quick notes for now. First of all, hooray! I'm glad to see someone growing hoyas successfully in a terrarium setting. My new terrarium-in-progress is a project where I'd like to have as many of my favorite things together in one place. Debbie, I love your list of hoyas you are growing in terrariums. Mike, I don't have time at the moment to check out the sources/links you mentioned, but I think the Black Jungle link may be to the set of images/instructions that inspired the whole project in the first place. I only wish I could have one as large as that. I decided to go in a similar direction when I got lucky and found my ExoTerra 24hx24lx18w on Craiglist for $80. That only just barely fit up my stairs (I live in a trinity rowhome, which means I have narrow winding stairs.) I dread the thought of moving it back down the stairs.

Size is definitely an issue; I don't want the hoya to take over the terrarium, but to live peacefully with my mini orchids and mini AV trailers. I built my first terrarium out of acrylic sheets and acrylic cement, and I'm quite happy with it, but it is only 12hx24wx12d, and it would be difficult to go bigger unless I bought thicker acrylic sheets, due to the warping. Which means the expense would go way up.

I will check out the links tomorrow after work. Thanks!

I would add a shingle-type Dischidia, like imbricata or platyphylla or cleistantha. Nummularia would do well, too, but it's a pretty fast growers. Ovata, with its pretty leaves, would look fabulous, too.

Denise in Omaha

For anyone who does not know just what style of terrarium we are talking about here are a few sites to perhaps inspire you to build one of your own. Tall vertical terrariums can be extensively landscaped with epiphytes and when an automated misting system is added you get your own miniature rain forest.

This site is geared towards keeping frogs so not all of the enclosures are vertical and suitable for epiphytes on the walls but there are some great vivariums featured.

http://www.wildsky.net/vivarium/evivariu.htm

Mike

Here is a link that might be useful: Vivaria Projects gallery

Another idea for your terrarium is to take a terra cotta tube (unglazed) and to fill it with water part way and mount your mini orchids to it. As time goes by moss forms on the terra cotta from the dampness and covers over to make it look amazing! I have bought the tubes at my Hobby Lobby here in town but haven't filled them with water yet to sit outside to moss over. The pipes I bought have a bottom so hold the water. I bought several bottom glazed terra cotta saucers to sit the filled pipes on.
I plan to try a few of the mini damp loving Hoya's on one also to see how they do.
Below are 2 links to show you what I'm talking about.,,,,Debbie

http://www.orchidboard.com/community/attachments/growing-mounts/19570d1222657919-nano-viv-terracotta-tubes-erin-pottery-dsc_0016.jpg

Here is a link that might be useful:

Awesome photos!

Debbie that is just what I was talking about although the ones I saw have their own small terrariums made from thin Lexan to surround them and keep the humidity up. Those unglazed kitchen utensil holders would work great. You can also get different sizes of clay tubes at home builders or look in the phone book for a supplier of unglazed clay chimney inserts or liners. A little ingenuity and some silicon caulking would seal the bottoms quite easily.
After seeing some of my cuttings actually root firmly to the glass walls of my sealed rooting aquarium there is no doubt that Hoyas love high humidity.

Mike

Mike somewhere I even saw where someone had used the clay roof tiles that are on Spanish style homes. You know the half round ones? After the moss covered the tiles and with the plants attached and established it looked very cool!
I read also on a blog for orchids where there are things called Swamp Sticks you can buy that are especially for just this purpose. They would also work for succulents and other plants such as bromeliad or even Hoyas. I checked on the buy page and they have a hanging type with a hole or a standing type with a base.
I can't remember what I paid for my 12 inch high by probably 5 inch round containers. I did fill one with water and stuck it outside to start the moss process quicker. I'll mount plants and cuts come Fall.
Depending on how well a person attached a Hoya to one of the containers like I bought even a medium growing Hoya would be ok. Of course you would want to use a higher poundage fishing line. I'd be afraid in time wire would rust and break. The Hoya as it established would attach its roots into the moss and find the terracotta in time to help anchor it also.
I use to have a link where a Swede told how he made a plastic or plexiglass enclosure for his terracotta tube planter. I looked and looked but couldn't find it. Guess I lost it when I switched to my new pc. Do you happen to have the link? It was explained by the guy himself in detail.
Happy growing!,,,Debbie

Here is a link that might be useful: Swamp Sticks

Ok now I need a few of those Swamp Sticks, they will look great covered in moss. You know if you want moss fast you can blend moss with water and paint it onto the surface, works well. For outdoors you mix a little plain yogurt in the water/moss slurry. Tropical mosses grow the best because temperate mosses are used to a cool dormant period but you could use dry sphagnum moss and see what grows on it because it's a great base for other mosses.

The explanation of the enclosures you speak of is on the OrchidSource forum under growing areas with photos in the gallery also under growing areas. The grower used thin Lexan and bent it into a tube, he calls them nano-terrariums. The Lexan is drilled and held in place with a strip of metal and some nuts/bolts. The bottom is any water tight container.

Mike

Ok now I need a few of those Swamp Sticks, they will look great covered in moss. You know if you want moss fast you can blend moss with water and paint it onto the surface, works well. For outdoors you mix a little plain yogurt in the water/moss slurry. Tropical mosses grow the best because temperate mosses are used to a cool dormant period but you could use dry sphagnum moss and see what grows on it because it's a great base for other mosses.

The explanation of the enclosures you speak of is on the OrchidSource forum under growing areas with photos in the gallery also under growing areas. The grower used thin Lexan and bent it into a tube, he calls them nano-terrariums. The Lexan is drilled and held in place with a strip of metal and some nuts/bolts. The bottom is any water tight container.

Mike

I spent all the spare time I had left after work looking at orchid growing area pictures. The Swedish guy's orchidarium was extremely impressive, as were the cylindrical containers he built.

Here's a pic of my terrarium for kicks. It's not a recent pic, probably from about April or so. I keep changing things around. This is the one I built entirely from scratch. The lid is open, but acrylic is so clear, you practically can't tell either way.

Wow good job on the construction. I am slightly intimidated by the construction of an acrylic enclosure using the liquid weld, was it difficult?

Can I ask what Aerangis sp you grow? I used to have many Aerangis and Angraecum sp but I lost most of them after using a new product on my orchids years ago. I have two Aerangis sp left and a couple of Angraecum but I am going to start to slowly build my collection up again.

Mike

You mean the acrylic cement? There's a bit of a trick to it. It flows like water. It's not difficult, as long as you hold it the right way, so that the cement flows towards a barrier, rather than accidentally pooling in places where it would be visible. (It's a little hard to explain, much easier to show.) I didn't do a perfect job, cosmetically, but it doesn't leak, and on a day to day basis, the mistakes aren't even visible. Mainly, they're blemishes where the cement got where it shouldn't. The cement is basically an acrylic solvent, which is why you can get such a great bond between sheets; it literally melts them together.

Here's what I grow:

Aerangis biloba
Aerangis citrata
Aerangis fastuosa
Aerangis kirkii x 2
Aerangis modesta seedlings x a lot (30?)
Aerangis mystacidii
Aerangis punctata
Angraecum didieri
Angraecum distichum
Chaemangis hariotiana

These are all in that terrarium, with the exception of Angraecum didieri, and most of the Aerangis modesta seedlings. Also in that terrarium: Pleurothallis alata, Pleurothallis grobyi, semimini AV trailer Little Lizzy, Tillandsia ionantha, Selaginella kraussiana, and a really cranky Adiantum raddianum.

Nice terrarium!

Your terrarium is awesome...and you built it yourself! Excellent!! I might have to hire you to build me one,lol...

Thanks! Like I told Mike, it really wasn't hard to build. Just make sure to order the sheets precut to the size you need, because acrylic is difficult to cut (it melts unless you use low speeds and the right kind of sawblade). Acrylic is nice because it is clear and extremely lightweight. But it scratches easily and tends to warp. I'm enjoying it because it is making it really easy for me to grow these orchids that would otherwise be really difficult to grow, and it's a neat little contained space for them all to be tucked away. As you can see though, it's too small to even think of a hoya in there. One small lacunosa would take up half of it alone. If you need a sense of scale... that little green tuffet in the middle of the saucer of Hydroton is in a pot that can be completely covered by a half dollar coin... it is not much bigger in diameter than a quarter. The Hydroton filled saucer is a 6in saucer. Most of those orchids fit in my hand.

Wow! I like the terrarium you built and been thinking of trying to build one also.
Is the lid hinged somehow? Looks it to me is why I ask.
Did you overlap the seams of the acrylic to have a good seal?
We have a plastic shop here in town that cuts to order so finding the thicker acrylic I don't think would be an issue. I am really thinking of 3 ft. square and 2 ft. tall. I don't know if this is realistic thinking or not yet. It may be too big a wish to fit somewhere in my home nicely. haha.
I do know that Lowes at one time had terrariums that had brass corners and decoration on the seams. The top was one whole piece that sat on a base. A tabletop model I guess you would call it. Well I happened in and saw one top portion had no bottom and asked where it's bottom was. I was told it had broken in shipment. I asked what they planned to do with it and he said ship it back to the company. Well long story short I bought the top portion of the terrarium for $15-$20. I brought it home and we had a outdoor table frame the glass top had broken on. My husband cut a piece of wood to fit the table top and grooved the edge where the terrarium top would sit to give it a snug fit. Whala I have a table terrarium super cheap. The table frame was about 3 inches bigger on all sides (square). So it looks nice without alot of over hang or wasted space around the terrarium top.
The terrariums whole at Lowes sold around for $65-$70. This was 5-7 years ago.
The wood base needs replaced now from moisture and humidity and I am thinking of granite or something else besides wood this time around. The granite would last forever but I wonder if it would pool water from condensation and watering plants. Any suggestions for a new base?,,,,Debbie

The lid is hinged. The hinge is also acrylic, so it is cemented on as well. Actually, it is two hinges side to side, they only came in 12 in lengths. I wanted one that went the whole length so that I wouldn't have any odd gaps to deal with. The lid is a thinner sheet of acrylic than the walls, and is warping upward, which actually turned out to be okay, as I need it open the slightest bit for air circulation. I'm not sure what you mean by overlapping the seams, but I did reinforce each corner with a quarter inch square rod. I did this to give the tank a bit more of a frame, to see if I could minimize the chances of warping. I don't know whether or not it worked, because I don't have anything else to compare it to (ha ha) but the only part that is warping right now is the front, bowing outward just a little bit.

For your tabletop terrarium: Is it possible to put in a replacement wood base, but this time cover it with tile, and caulk it so that moisture doesn't reach the wood? Do you think that would work, or is that a wacky idea?

Here is a photo of my terrarium. This one is a little crowded and completely utilitarian but I could not ask for more seeing as it was free. A great way to set up a terrarium if you don't plan on building it yourself, found at pet stores and made by Exo-terra.
I have located a large Lexan case locally and should be able to go pick it up some time soon. I am trying to find a home for my Bulbophyllums that are on large tree fern plaques but because I plan on taking the plants out to show I will not be landscaping the terrarium.

Mike

Wow, this is an amazing post. I have a 55 Gallon aquarium and wouldn't that work to use as a terrarium? The tank is brand new. I got it for christmas one year and knew I would be moving soon so I didn't set it up. I saw the link on the Black Jungle Photo Gallery! Absolutely amazing! I really really want to set one up now...

shanna

Sure Shanna! Aquariums make great terrariums. If it were me Id have either a glass top cut to fit or get a piece of thicker plastic cut to fit to enclose it in. That way you can build up some humidity inside the aquarium,,,plants would love it.
The sky is the limit as far as what your imagination can come up with on how to fix it up your empty aquarium!
I have a 55 gallon aquarium but at the time I went to set it up I didn't have enough plants to fill it up. I'd wanted to use it for mini orchids. Since I didn't use the aquarium in a reasonable amount of time my husband talked my son out of his ball python snake. So now I have no aquarium to work with. haha.
Good luck!,,,,Debbie

Acrylic is an excellent choice for a lid! It's lighter than glass. I'd keep a little gap on the side or something for a bit of air exchange. Yeah, I love that project on Black Jungle's site. I want to make one very similar to that one, except that instead of having the whole bottom filled with water, I want a little pond, so I can grow a few things on the ground around the pond that aren't water plants.

The other nice thing about aquariums is that if you check Craigslist regularly, someone is always getting rid of one. I don't have a car, so it usually doesn't work out for me, but if you do, it can work out great.

Shanna I thin you should go for it! My tree boas terrarium is made from a tall hexagon aquarium and it worked perfectly. The one thing that I like about the terrariums is that you have access through the front. I am always having to shut the lights off and take the lid off to water the plant and to feed the snake. Having a misting system or drip system is a great investment and you can rig a simple one up inexpensively. There are more and more products available marketed for reptile and amphibian keepers that make caring for a terrarium much less time consuming.

The Lexan display case I am getting is from a site similar to Craig's List. The dimensions are 48"x33"x17" for $50, all I need is a another LED light panel and to make a lid and I am set. I look at the local online classifieds quite often and there are always terrariums and aquariums for fantastic prices.

Here is a link that might be useful: Big Apple Herps misters and foggers

Hi
Have kept a 150 gallon aquarium in the shadehouse for many years but last winter it developed an unfixable leak.
Was thinking of converting to a terrarium but besides the usual problems the tank is exposed to the weather which means cold spells ,high heat and an occasional filling with water due to rain. lol.
I keep a lot of tropical plants but none that would tolerate these conditions but thinking maybe a good time to try something new.lol
I've set it up with a false bottom so will have a way to provide winter heat and arranged a waterfall accross the back more for a filter and circulation .
have not come up with a lid as yet ,being so large glass is too heavy acrylic grows algae and both will hold in the heat. Did add an automatic siphon since the glass is tempered can't be drilled. Naturally this will have to be shaded from direct sun.
Thanks for the suggestions for species that might survive in this tank lol.
So far have just used cuttings of various plants just to see what happens and so far results have been encouraging.
Though I grow a lot of tropical plants have no experience with a closed environment.
Should be quite an adventure??? lol gary

Oh what fun a 150 gal. aquarium could be!! Have a grand ole time Gary!!
I think if I had one that big I would try out the spray foam method and make a terrain look. It would seal your leak also wouldn't it??
I'd cover the floor with orchid bark to catch any drip off from condensation or from watering. That would keep the potted plants out of any pooling water in the bottom. Plus the orchid bark I use has a mixture with charcoal in it which would keep things smelling nice with time.
I wish someone in my area's Craig's List would need to get rid of all the fine terrarium items Mike has come across! I did once snatch up at a garage sale one of the vintage plastic terrariums that go for bookoo's on Ebay. It didn't have the stand (but for $2 who could gripe!?) but I sat it on a small table I had with a ceramic tile top and it works great! I did tape over with clear packing tape the air spout on top to keep the humidity in.
Ya'll need to stop cause this thread is making me look around for stuff to use for yet another terrarium! Or to call and order some specially cut acrylic! haha.
I am truly enjoying this thread!,,,Debbie

Debbie
Congrats on your terrarium find, that's awsome.

Gary
WOW 150 gal. I was thinking I was doing good with my 55 gal. Just think how many plants you could put in there.

Is the terrarium suppose to grow algae? If not how do you keep it from growing? The grow light bulbs you use for a terrarium, do they put off heat too?

Hey thanks for everyone responding to my question about using the aquarium to build a terrarium. I went to 2 pet stores at lunch. Boy... driftwood is not cheap, looked on ebay and also at the two pet stores. The guy a the pet store told me to collect it myself at the river and then soak it in bleach a couple times and then in regular water. Anyone done this before?

In the link "Black Jungle" they say to use Coco bedding to cover the expandable foam. Is there anything else you all would use? One pet store did not have that and i'm just curious if I need to order it off the net or if I can just use something else.

What are your thoughts on this?

thanks shanna

You can get a brick of coco fiber, reconstitute it, and let it dry. I actually got a couple bricks from Black Jungle, they're about 4 or 5 dollars each. I don't know what else would be good to use. I think it's mainly to cover the appearance of the foam, though, because the layer you're putting on over the foam isn't exactly deep enough for me to consider it a growing medium. I tried looking for driftwood too, definitely NOT cheap. I'm going with using what looks like sandblasted manzanita branches, and large pieces of cork bark instead. Grow lights do put off some heat, but if you use a small fan you can get some air circulation and blow away some of the heat buildup. I use CFLs, because they put out a lot less heat than other lighting systems. You might use fluorescent tubes, though; I think a 55 gallon is a lot longer than the setups I have going, but I don't know for sure. Anyway, it's still fluorescent, so it's still pretty good with heat. My orchids are sensitive to heat, but I think hoyas like the heat much more than them.

Hi Gary, still trying to figure out what to do with your huge aquarium? I know you were thinking about various orchids that might work. Maybe hoyas are the answer after all. Maybe instead of a lid you can make a roof out of acrylic, and have that suspended over it so it holds in most of the humidity, but not be airtight? This way, the water from rain and the water from condensation will just roll off. Maybe even drape some shade cloth over it. My tank manages to hold up to about 55-60% humidity even with the lid completely open.

Shanna you can use drift wood you find but some tends to grow mold unless it is well weathered. I like to use cork because it looks great, is light and easy to work with and it lasts a long time without rotting. Some pet stores are more expensive than others and I find that independently owned stores have better prices for things like cork bark.
Ground coconut husk is what I used to cover the foam in my snakes terrarium but you could also use peat moss.

Gardenweb has a terrarium forum and there are usually some good ideas floating around there, have not dropped by in a while.

Mike

Debbie
The 150 was used as a reservoir for a waterfall and the "leak" is a four foot long crack over the back. It was broken during a hurricane but was repaired and worked for 5 years. Replacement glass is too expensive not to mention the work lol.
It is located in the shadehouse where I keep most of my orchids . So not only subject to rain but irrigation also,
As an aquarium I used natural light as there is no way to use a fixture over it. It was kept wide open and overflow was directed to the lily pool. Big problem as a terrarium lol. Need a lid that will divert the water while not hold in heat or block light as obviously it could not be kept in full sun.
I keep around 150 orchids but none would survive inside but there are species that might find this ideal but have no experience with these types. I have kept terrariums but mostly for a cutting shed and always indoors and nothing near this size lol.
I swore that I would not setup anymore specialised grow areas but the only other alternative is to move it out lol. My back aches just thinking about that !!! There must be a way!!! Way too big for a cutting shed and eats up way too much space to leave in place!!.
If anyone is interested there is a website called "Orchid board " that has a whole section devoted to
"Terrariums" Most active and informative one I've found. There are actually new posts lol gary

Well I brought my new terrarium home yesterday, gotta love the internet classifieds because I got it for only $50. The case is made of Lexan polycarbonate and was formerly used to cover a huge model ship. The dimensions are 48"L x 36"H x 17"D. I have already ordered some supplies and will make use of other I have already. The back of the terrarium will be a piece of white egg crate light diffuser so that I can hang my mounted plants easily. I think I will also try at least one of the water filled clay cylinders to see how it works. For now the most important piece of material I need is another piece of plastic to cover the top and another LED light panel

I had meant to take a photo but as you can imagine a photo of a large clear plastic container is not very exciting. Once I get some of the plants inside I will make sure to post. For anyone who is interested the may I purchased this from told me that he had it made by calling a plastics company he found in the phone book, makes building an enclosure much easier if you are apprehensive to do it yourself.

Mike

Oh Mike, What fun you will have decorating your new terrarium!
Since this covered a ship model the open part would actually be the bottom,,,wouldn't it? If you didn't especially want to spend for acut piece of polycarbonate for the flooring you could always walk through Lowes for a new idea to use for a bottom. But if you want it all see thru this idea prob wouldn't work.
We have a plastic company here in town and it's them I will call to cut my terrarium pieces. I figure this winter when I'm bored and stuck inside is when I'll get serious on this. I'll put it together myself with the pieces I have cut to order.
Yes when your ready we would love to see this new terrarium your working on!,,,,Debbie

Debbie you are right that the opening is actually on the bottom. I have the display case upside down so that the opening is at the top and I will get some plastic cut and either attach it with a plastic hinge or maybe several pieces of plastic connected by a rubber aquarium hinge. I am mounting lights just above the lid and they will consist of three LED light panels, two whites and one red/blue combination panel.

Mike

How convenient! I'm assuming that this enclosure is rectangular then, and can actually function inverted that way. Where do you get these LED light panels? I've been considering them for my shelves, as supplemental lighting during the winter. I looked into a source that seemed pretty affordable, but then when I did a web search to see if there were any complaints about them, I found a lot of unhappy customers. So I'm still trying to suss out a source that isn't suspect. Also, is the red/blue combination distracting if you have to be around it? My plant shelves are in my room, where I like to spend a lot of time. I'm not sure I want red and blue lights around me all the time.

The LED lights are from Ebay from a company called LED wholesalers INC. This will be the first time I use the lights for an application other than supplemental light. The lights come in varying wattages but I use the least expensive panels because I don't want to spend hundreds of dollars and I really don't need lights that are that powerful. A 90W LED light is the equivalent of 400-600W HPS light.
A mix of red and blue LED's is the best for growth and flowering while white just adds extra brightness. The colour of the light is not very noticeable unless it's in a dark room and the lights run cool/warm instead of hot and are very slim and light which makes them easy to install.

I also found some really cool LED aquarium lights that are a strip of lights sealed (water tight) in a tube and are used to simulate moon light at night. I may add two small strips to the inside of the tank to boost the blue portion of the light spectrum under the white panels. I want to see how things grow first but if they look like they need some more light I will invest in some aquarium lights.

http://cgi.ebay.ca/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=380108250821&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT

I think people could be upset with what they get if they don't do some research. If you want an extremely bright grow light you will have to spend the money. There are 1000W equivalent daylight panels out there but they are really expensive although prices are starting to come down slowly. So far I am pleased with my single red/blue panel and my Hoyas have been growing very well under it although they do get some light from a south facing window that is about five feet away. You do need to keep the plants as close to the panel as possible to maximize it's effect. My panel is quite high above my plants but I only wanted it to provide light to the taller plants as they climb their supports. What exactly were the negative comments about LED grow lights? I can always post my experience with these lights after a few months or some time during the winter. If my plants don't bloom or grow well we will know that they are not bright enough.

Mike

Here is a link that might be useful: LED Wholesalers INC on Ebay

Orchidariums are used very successfully by orchid growers, but could also be used for hoyas or any other plant, for that matter.
They are expensive, but are complete growing chambers with light, fans etc.
Mike

Here is a link that might be useful: Orchidarium Growing Chambers

Orchidariums are very nice but far too expensive. You could have a custom case built for far less and then just add the egg crate light diffuser, muffin fan and lights for a fraction of the cost.

A link to get the creative juices flowing for anyone planning on building a landscaped terrarium.

Mike

Here is a link that might be useful: Dutch Vivariums

• Your terrarium is awesome...and you built it yourself! Excellent!! I might have to hire you to build me one,lol. Link