The original double hung windows in my old (1870's) house were replaced by a PO with wood windows that ride in steel tracks (jambliners) that have a white powdercoat finish. (The edges of the wood windows are unpainted.) I'm taking the windows apart to replace the broken parts that keep them from staying up when open. The steel tracks are looking a little tired. A few have bare spots where I spilled paint remover (before I decided to take them apart), and some have light rust (mostly on the backs). Since I'm taking the windows apart anyway, I'd like to clean up the tracks and paint them (or touch them up). Is there any durable white low-gloss paint that would be up to the task? I don't want to create new problems, but I'd really like to spiff these up while I have the chance. There are so many new specialty paints (appliance, automotive, radiator, etc) -- surely there must be something that would work in this situation. The paint would need to be: 1) Durable (won't chip or peel easily and hold up to usage over time) 2) Suitable for metal 3) Not require stripping the frames to bare metal (a nightmare in this case) 4) Available in a non-yellowing white with a non-shiny finish 5) Appropriate for Indoor/outdoor use. (I have storms, but the tracks would be exposed to a range of temperatures in New England.) 6) Preferably available as a a spray I don't want to send the tracks out to be stripped and re-coated because it wouldn't be worth the cost (better to just replace the windows). Ditto for buying new tracks (which are available as far as I have been able to find only in unpainted aluminum). Assuming I do paint the tracks, I'd like to just remove the rust and spot-prime, and use a paint deglosser (liquid sander) overall before painting. Sound reasonable? Recommendations for paints and primers? (Please tell me where I can buy them if they're not easy to find.) I'd also appreciate any painting and prep tips or suggestions for this project For example, how long should the paint cure before I re-install the windows? Thanks! This post was edited by dilettante on Fri, Aug 16, 13 at 16:21

Thanks, This "collage" approach got me in trouble in the master bathroom I finished off, was rough plumbed by builder, but not finished. I put in an off white tub, a stand along shower in gloss white, all behind the shower door, and a white sink. I figured I could put in a red toilet if I was so moved. My wife disagreed - the toilet is white too and I am supposed to someday replace the off white tub, but haven't.. yes tub is set in a low-boy (not a show too) white tile that matches the stand alone shower. I also installed a 3' (or thereabout) high wainscot in natural wood, stained Minwax Early American with a dash of Mahogany - and wall paper above. I'm now under pressure to paint the wainscot white semigloss. In the case of the kitchen a neighbor suggested Stainless steel and my wife liked the idea.. but burned once make me want to get some input. Thanks again, I am moved one step closer to stainless steel.

Stainless would be my choice.

I can understand why they want the hood to be empty. It needs to coated throughout and then baked at high heat. If you left the motor and the buttons installed, it would absolutely destroy those. It really depends on how much of a DIY person you are, and how much you are willing to forego warranty. I am 99% certain, that you could easily disassemble a Vent-A-Hood or a ModernAire hood. I have taken some of their hoods apart, and it's not super difficult. If you do that, you'll be left with a shell that you could give to the power coating company. And later, you'll put it all together again. I am sure the same technique could be applied to other brands, but I am less familiar with those. If you are less adventurous, you could also ask a fabricator to make you a custom shell that you then powder coat, and you could then buy a vent hood insert that goes into this shell. That's a lot less work for you, and it also doesn't put your warranty at risk. But it ultimately is likely to be more expensive, because you buy several separate custom parts. Personally, I'd probably go the first route. But then, I am pretty handy with DIY projects.