How do I train/trim small in-ground citrus trees?
Mikhail (Bay Area/East Bay - 9b)
5 years ago
last modified: 5 years ago
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How should I prune/train my Peach Trees?
Comments (12)Hi Eskota, Pruning sealer is something that Gator and I disagree on. As has been mentioned, Linda Chalker-Scott is not the end-all authority for horticulture, but at least her conclusions are scientifically based. Below is a link of what she has to say regarding pruning sealer. I do think Bug Juice could have a small slight residual benefit if you are concerned about borers colonizing a pruning wound. Not that there is anything particularly special about Bug Juice (i.e. Deltamethrin) vs. other pyrethroids, but any broad spectrum insecticide will tend to slow borers down. I think there could be some advantage to treating large wounds with a strong copper solution. The reason is that large wounds can take many years to heal over. If the wound is large enough the wood in the center of wound can rot before the wound calluses over completely. If that happens, it will leave a hole that could trap water in the hole and slow callusing even more. Copper is decidedly different than asphalt or caulk type products that are routinely sold for wound dressings. Copper will not seal in moisture. I will also point out that my comments regarding copper are not based upon scientific testing. They are based only on deduction and some experience. Deductively, copper has fairly good broad spectrum fungicide activity. Copper is also one of the preservatives of treated lumber. And again copper will not seal in moisture as other wound dressings can. I first learned of this idea from an arborist who posted on a different forum. He claimed to have used this treatment with good success. My experience is also anecdotal. I've tried it on one very large wound. I treated the wound a couple times in the last three years and haven't seen any rotting of the core wood yet. The wound continues to close up. It was probably the largest wound I've made (about 6"). I've made several smaller wounds 4" or less and haven't put any copper on them and they've healed up themselves. I do try to spray big wounds when I spray the fruit for insects and disease. Generally I have an insecticide and fungicide in the tank mix, so the wounds get attention of a sort. I try not to let unwanted limbs get so far ahead of me that I have to use a chain saw. I'm getting better and for the last few years I've only made large wounds where I let central leader trees (like pears) get too tall and am bringing them down slowly. Here is a link that might be useful: Linda Scott - Wound dressings...See MoreCitrus pruning and training
Comments (21)Oh, clm, I'm not attacking you! I was making some fun, and I'm sorry you thought I was attacking you, not my intent! Yes, you would need to prune away any dead wood, that is always a good idea as it can be a source for insects and infection to gain entry. But it's not necessary to prune very young citrus if they're a bit uneven. And, as John has mentioned, the Improved Meyer lemon's natural growth habit is more bush-like, so I would allow it to do what it wants to do, naturally. Now, all that being said, you can prune for shape, and even what I would call "severe" shape with espaliering of citrus. Lemons and limes actually do well with this, and the Bearss lime has sort of a natural "espalier" type of lateral, 2-dimensional growth habit to start with. So, if you're so inclined, and would like to try your hand at espaliering a citrus tree, pick up a Bearss lime tree that hopefully is already displaying some of the 2-dimensional lateral branching, and prune to espalier. Beyond this type of "ultra-pruning", it really isn't necessary to prune young citrus. I let mine grow for a bit to see it they can recover their shape themselves, then, if they are really, really lopsided, I'll either pull a branch down mechanically, so that it runs parallel to the ground to stimulate new apical branching (think of a climbing rose - you want the canes to run horizontally, parallel to the ground, so that new nodes are stimualated to act as apical nodes, and sprout new growth and flowers), or resort to some minimal pruning. Almost all plants will respond in this manner, and you can force new apical node growth from the nodes along that branch, and voila! New growth. No need to nick or cut the tree (which damages the tree, and you always run the risk, then of a portal of entry for diseases and insects). Remember, citrus are tip producers, so if you prune too much, you're going to prune away your flowers and then your fruit. Okay, some before and after photos of a couple of poor citrus trees I had ordered, and could not pick up for a couple of weeks. Had someone holding them for me, who forgot to water them. They were in very bad shape when I finally got my hands on them. Yes, I did prune out dead wood, but that's all I did for these two trees, and they needed every leaf they had, even if they were leaves on their way out (dying). These two little trees needed as much ability to generate energy as possible, until they could recover and produce a new flush of leaves. They both were rather rare varieties, so I was determined to save them, as they were very hard to get. First series of photos is my Chironja orangelo, before and after: And after (about 2 years, now). There is enough canopy growth to now support some fruit (as you can see): And, my little Ortanique tangor, which has a more weeping structure, sort of like a Satsuma mandarin. It was in very sad shape as well, I thought I was going to lose this little tree. I think it had maybe 10 leaves on it, and was all bent over sideways. I just allowed that branch to stay horizontal, as I knew it would create those apical nodes to wake up, and send out new branches. It did in a huge way. It, too, now has fruit that I'm letting stay to maturity. This series of photos is from the start, 1 year later, then just today, almost 2 years, now: Patty S....See MoreDo I need a dwarf tree or can I keep a standard tree small?
Comments (4)Peach rootstocks are not about dwarf or standard. It is more about how well it could tolerate your soil type It is not difficult to train peach low for peach should be pruned to an open center shape. Your need to buy a bare root peach so you can cut a tree trunk to be as low as two feet above ground. Once a tree has branches, train those branches to go out, not up. Your can prune your tree to be 10' tall that way. This is quite late to order bare root fruit trees. Rootstocks such as Lovell, Guardian, Halfotd are good for many soil types....See MoreHow should I train this Asian pear tree?
Comments (4)get rid of the brace ... then post in the fruit forum ... the fruit mavens trim trees a lot differently than the tree peeps ... plz link us over there ... it might be helpful to add a pic of the Y .... something looks wonky there.. but i cant really tell ken ps:.. 9 feet. lol ... pears really dont understand what dwarf means.. lol ......See MoreMikhail (Bay Area/East Bay - 9b)
5 years agoponcirusguy6b452xx
5 years agolast modified: 5 years agoMikhail (Bay Area/East Bay - 9b) thanked poncirusguy6b452xxuncle molewacker z9b Danville CA (E.SF Bay)
5 years agolast modified: 5 years agoMikhail (Bay Area/East Bay - 9b) thanked uncle molewacker z9b Danville CA (E.SF Bay)Dave in NoVA • N. Virginia • zone 7A
5 years agolast modified: 5 years agoMikhail (Bay Area/East Bay - 9b) thanked Dave in NoVA • N. Virginia • zone 7Aponcirusguy6b452xx
5 years agolast modified: 5 years agoMikhail (Bay Area/East Bay - 9b) thanked poncirusguy6b452xx
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