I Need Space: The Effect of Primary Physical Distance on Emotional Reactivity - Mervill & Hall (now there's a light read . . . ;-) )

Jack, Your list is nice and be careful or you'll fall into my trap of planting more garden than you can maintain/defend against wildlife and pests. Believe me, cutting this grow list is absolutely, positively the hardest thing I've ever done garden-wise. I am not exaggerating when I say how very painful it was and is. It has caused tossing and turning and sleepless nights, lying awake wondering how I will "survive" without 50 varieties of tomatoes, remembering the great experimental years when I grew 300 tomato varieties (600 plants) in one year in an effort to see how they did in head-to-head competition. (This was only possible because deer hadn't found our garden yet as many of these plants were outside the fenced garden itself. It also was, ironically, the year the deer found the garden, naturally, and started eating tomato plants.) Ever since we moved here, my gardening motto has kinda been "go big or go home". However, there's just the two of us now and we can eat only so much produce. Of course a person always can give away the excess, but if you raise lots of excess produce, you even put lots of time into growing, harvesting it, washing it, sorting it and bagging it up just to give away. I want to spend that time more productively on projects here at home. Even when I can, freeze and dehydrate all the excess for us, all I'm doing is filling up pantries and freezers with more food than we can eat. If you keep preserving more food than you can eat every year, after a while you have quite a surplus in storage. I work hard to rotate the oldest stored canned and frozen goods so that the oldest stuff is eaten first and the newest stuff last, but that's also a ton of work that involves keeping the deep freezes (we have 3 of them) really, really well-organized. I've been working really hard the last few years to more closely align what we preserve with how much we eat, though I still like to preserve two years of food each year---so if there is a total garden failure in any give year (it's never happened, but you never know) then there's still a year's worth of yummy home-grown food stored away. So, it is time to cut back even more. I have to have the mindset that what I grow and preserve this year will be enough for us, but not too much, and I cannot focus on the stuff I'm not able to grow. That opens up the door to have more space for flowers. I used to grow a lot more flowers than I have in recent years, but the veggies kept pushing them out. This year, it is a return to many more flowers. True pumpkins have zero chance of surviving here with all the squash vine borers---we always have two generations of them and sometimes 3 or 4. I'm just so tired of fighting them. I'm thinking that if I take off a year or two, maybe the SVBs will die out in my neighborhood. Before they found us, I grew 15-30 varieties of true pumpkins every year and had such a wonderful time doing it (and not even in the real garden, but out in the 10' wide strip of grass between our driveway and the southern property line....with me having to go drag wayward vines out of the driveway occasionally and direct their growth back towards the fenceline), but then the SVBs arrived, and everything changed. I think the SVBs didn't find us until our 7th year here. I do not know a single person in my county who grows true pumpkins (or summer squash) organically without the use of synthetic pesticides. I suppose I could just make life easy on myself by planting those true pumpkins and summer squash in their own garden away from the other two gardens and then spray them regularly with synthetic pesticides, and we'd have a great non-organic harvest of them, right? But, I find it nearly impossible to even contemplate doing that. I'd rather not ever use a synthetic pesticide even if it means giving up pumpkins. Oh, and my whole no-pumpkin plan is somewhat in danger because Lillie mentioned she loves pumpkins and have I ever grown the blue ones? I told her yes and the pink ones too, so of course, she's hoping I'll find a place to grow them. I need to have my head examined for even discussing pumpkins with that sweet child. I'm toying with the ideal of building a high tunnel, maybe 10' x 12', back in the back garden and covering it with Biothrips Proteknetting instead of plastic, and planting blue and pink pumpkins inside it for Lillie but I'm not going to tell her about that idea until the high tunnel gets built (if it gets built). Even then, we still have the vole issue so could go to all the trouble to try to exclude squash pest and still have voles eat the plant roots and kill the plants. We couldn't grow many pumpkins in a space that small, but for her, even 1 or 2 plants of the blue and the pink would be better than nothing. Sweet potatoes? I know I don't have them on my list. Every now and then I skip growing them because of space issues. What usually happens when I 'think' I am skipping them for one year is that I walk into Mike's Garden Center one day in May and see the 4 or 6 or 8 varieties of slips that they have, and then I impulsively buy some slips and find a way to shoehorn them into the garden. Last year I grew them in a regular bed, not one lined with hardware cloth, and I got away with it and the voles didn't eat them. That's a rarity. Maybe I'll find a spot to try that again this year because my hardware-cloth lined beds already will have taters, carrots and other things in them. The problem with all root crops is that we have billions, possibly trillions of pine voles living in our woodland. Usually they stay there until it gets hot and dry and food starts getting scarce--so generally early July. When that happens, they flock to the garden and eat every living thing that has some sort of fleshy tuber or root underground (or at/slightly above grade level)---sweet potatoes, Irish potatoes, onions, leeks, the bulbing form of fennel, carrots, radishes, turnips, beets, tulips (but not daffodils), dahlias, lilies, daylilies, ornmental sweet potatoes and virtually every other flower that has any sort of bulb or tuber for a root except I don't remember them ever eating glads. After they devour all that stuff, they start in on the root systems of fruit trees (and sometimes non-fruiting trees) and black berries. Still hungry? They start eating the roots of cucumbers, southern peas, watermelons and pumpkins. Honestly, sometimes it is a wonder that we are able to grow anything at all and get a harvest before the voles kill the plants. Other years the voles stay out of the garden. You never know what kind of year it is going to be. I have three small raised beds completely lined in hardware cloth where I can grow root crops, but there's never enough room in those beds for everything---so it means I have to make hard choices. This year I choose carrots over sweet potatoes, but there's always a chance that I'll be able to squeeze in a late sweet potato planting to succeed the carrots. So, cool-season root crops usually get to mature before voles show up but I plant them in hardware cloth-lined beds because some years the voles show up at planting time (maybe in a hard winter?) and eat all the seed potatoes as soon as I plant them if they aren't in the hardware cloth-lined bed. Warm-season root crops have a lot more vole trouble because the voles get hungrier in the summer once the heat decimates their usual food supply. In the worst drought years, the voles even have devoured the roots of lantana, moss rose and zinnias. They also love herbs, especially (for whatever reason) lemon balm. They've never bothered garlic or asparagus though. And, yes, I've tried all the castor oil based repellents and I think all they do is make the voles reproduce more babies more quickly. I've tried growing a border of castor bean plants along the garden fenceline---from the way some of those seeds 'moved' after they were sown, I think the voles dug up the beans I had planted and carried them around and moved them into new spots before they sprouted----and we still had voles destroy the garden plants anyway. If I were starting over with a brand new garden here, knowing what I know now about the voles, and if money were no object, I would have poured gravel 6" deep (or even poured concrete) over the entire garden plot, and then built raised beds on top of the gravel/concrete with each and every bed fully lined in hardware cloth. The problem with hardware cloth is that eventually it rusts and corrodes and needs to be replaced when it is used underground in the garden. I'm dreading the day when that happens to just the three small beds lined with it because it will involve moving a ton of dirt to replace the hardware cloth and we're getting older and less fond of heavy digging every year. And, yes, the voles do tunnel through the gravel driveway sometimes, just to show me they can, but I still think a gravel-based garden would have less vole trouble. So, root crops are limited by necessity. The kinds of flowers, fruit and berries I grow are limited by whatever the voles' appetites are in any given year. I'll never plant a fruit tree again without burying a hardware cloth root cage around the root system to at least give the tree a chance to make enough roots to survive the voles in its early years. I believe the voles are one reason we have so many snakes come into the garden. The cats control field mice and rats pretty well. Pumpkin does his best to control the voles, but there's so many of them that he gets tired of playing with them and gives up by mid-summer. The older cats just ignore the voles with a "been there, done that" attitude. Bobcats got into the garden almost daily and controlled the voles (though at the time, I did not realize that's why they were there because the voles hadn't become a garden problem yet since the bobcats were controlling them) when the garden had only a 4' tall fence. When we raised the fence to 8' to exclude the deer, it also excluded the bobcats. So, my choice appears to be a garden with a 4' fence and no voles and with bobcats but with tons of deer damage, or a garden with an 8' fence, no bobcats and no deer damage, but tons of vole damage. What's a gardener to do? So, those are the challenges I face, and that's the reason certain veggies (and many kinds of flowers) fall off the grow list. I love where we live. I expected wildlife. I might not have expected as much wildlife as we have though. With the Red River to our west, south and east, and tons of Wildlife Management Land along the river, we have such huge numbers of wildlife that sometimes it can be mind-boggling. In drought years it almost becomes dangerous here as the wildlife gets hungry and more aggressive---you do not, for example, want to encounter a bunch of hungry feral hogs ever. Even the deer have stalked me at times because they are hungry, and sometimes they will stand outside the garden fence and blow air through their nostrils trying to scare me out of the garden, or will stand outside the fence, stare at me and stomp their feet trying to scare me out of my own garden. I always, always, always must be mindful to close the garden gate behind me when I enter the garden and to securely latch the gate closed----it isn't fun to have even a little skunk come wandering into the fenced garden while you're in there...and that is why my garden has two gates! Truthfully, when the deer are that aggressive, I'd rather go into the house, but that means leaving the safety of the enclosed garden and walking about 100' in an open area with the deer right there....so I yell back at the deer, tell them to go away, throw things at them, etc. and after they leave, I go indoors. We won't even get into talk of the cougar year when the sudden appearance of cougars at my garden gate in mid- to late- summer caused me to start carrying a long gun instead of just a hand gun out to the garden with me....and for weeks I was so scared that I hardly went into the garden for any reason except to harvest and then I'd take two big dogs with me. Big dogs trample gardens, so I was sort of choosing the lesser of two evils at that point. Personally, I'm more in favor of gun-free gardening, but not willing to move back to the city to make it a reality. : ) As more people move here to our rural area slowly over the years (near us, but usually not between us and the river), it just seems to push more wildlife towards us, especially if they clearcut the woodland areas on their property. More wildlife is just more trouble for me and my garden. If I ever build a new garden spot, we will either build a deck of pressure-treated lumber or pour a huge concrete slab and then I'll have an Earthbox garden right outside the back door with a hard surface beneath it that might keep the garden vole-free and snake-free. That's my dream retirement garden, but we'd have to fence the side yard to make it happen....and Tim hates fencing. Still, I expect I'll get my way and have this retirement garden built after he retires in a few more years. Okay, my rant about what I can and can't do is over. Everything I've learned I cannot do here because of the wildlife absolutely was learned the hard way by having wildlife destroy what I planted over and over again, so I've learned to focus instead on what I can do. That means that some root crops don't make the list in any given year and many forms of flowers that have tuberous or bulbous roots are off the grow list permanently. Some years I get so tired of fighting squash bugs even on regular squash and C. moschata types of winter squash that I swear I am never, ever again going to plant squash but then I plant it anyway. One of these days, I'll skip all squash for a year and y'all will think I've completely lost my mind. It's okay. I don't expect anyone who has never had these sorts of garden challenges to understand that a gardener can only fight that war so many times on so many fronts before they decide that gardening shouldn't be a war and just give up on that particular crop. Dawn

Rebecca, Stink bug or leaf-footed bug damage on the tomato. I was wondering about C. diff too. My younger sister had it once a few years ago and had to be hospitalized for quite some time. Nancy, We've been hearing occasional fireworks for about a week already. I'm tired of them....and we aren't anywhere near the actual Fourth of July holiday yet. It makes the dogs crazy. Everyone is out mowing grass down short today. Between the heat, lack of rainfall and the fireworks craziness we always have out here in unincorporated parts of the county, people know the grass in the fields needs to be short in case fireworks set their fields on fire. Heavenly Blue is one of the latest MGs to bloom at our place, and they do better in full sun and poor soil than in part shade and good soil, so it helps if you choose them a 'bad' site to grow and don't baby them too much. Otherwise, they can just go on making new foliage forever and forever and forget to bloom for the longest time. Once they start blooming, though, they are so spectacular that you'll forget how aggravating it was to wait forever and forever for them to get their act together. Most of the basil I grow is for the beneficial insects. I ignore it and don't harvest it much, and just let it bloom for them. Our weather is awful again today. It was supposed to be around 97 degrees with a heat index of 103, which certainly sounded better than previous days. So, what have we had so far? An official high temp of 98 (so, very close to forecast so far) at our Mesonet station with a max heat index so far of 109 (oops, they were way off on the forecast for this). At our house is it 100 degrees right now. Our weather refuses to behave. Everything outdoors is just roasting. They had our Mesonet station (and Kenton's, I think it was) down for a while today, and when they brought them back online, both stations changed from a 16" soil moisture level of 0.14 to 0.40, so they either changed malfunctioning moisture sensors or they adjusted the data. Now I don't know what to think, but no matter what their data shows, the ground is miserably dry. The rain is bypassing us, moving from SW towards central OK, so some of you are likely to get rain. Hopefully, you won't get the hail. Jennifer, I hope the dinner is fun and that the animals do well without valium. Megan, There's so many neonics in use that I mostly just grow my own flower transplants from seed nowadays. I tried to buy some plants at HD this past spring, and they had Neonic tags in them (sort of hidden behind the standard plant tag, so if you weren't checking for them you might miss them) so I put them back on the plant racks. At least they are labeling theirs, which most places do not. I used to buy flats and flats of annual flowers in early to mid Spring for maximum impact, but don't buy many now. If I cannot grow them myself or find them at an organic nursery in the DFW metro, then I just live without them. It is hard for me to give flower seedlings the attention they need when I'm wrapped up in growing veggie transplants, especially during winter/spring wildfire season, but I'm getting better at giving them the appropriate amount of attention since buying them is less and less of an option because of the heavy reliance in the bedding plant industry on nionics. For me, growing transplants is easy if I'm not rushing off to fires every day, but almost impossible if we're having a bad fire season. We've been harvesting and eating tons of tomatoes for two months now, so you will not hear any whining coming from my lips. The fruit that set in March-April is mostly all harvested now. We had very little fruitset in May, but those are the ones that are still green now. With the heat cranking up, no rainfall in ages and tons of wind this week, the spider mites are flooding into the garden every time the wind blows and hitting the tomato plants hard. I'm now at the point where I look at the plants and think to myself that I'll be glad when each plant has ripened its last fruit and I can yank it out of the ground, thereby putting it out of its misery. I've been doing a pretty good job killing stink bugs and leaf footed bugs with citrus oil, but normally wouldn't spray it on the plants because it tends to burn the foliage. (Orange oil, at a high enough concentration will strip paint and varnish, so I have to be really careful to mix it up properly and to not spray it on any plant I don't want to risk losing.) It is just that with the plants declining so rapidly and drought officially in parts of our county now, I just do not care. I wouldn't spray it on the leftover tomato plants that I planted at the northern fenceline very late (to serve as host plants for tomato and tobacco hornworms found on the fruit-bearing plants in the main tomato rows) because they have not been hit by herbicide drift or spider mites yet, so they look ridiculously good and might survive until fall if the grasshoppers would leave them alone. I also wouldn't use it on the 8 new tomato plants for fall. They are in containers at the NW end of the garden, in as much shade as I can give them and still expect them to grow any at all. They can have more sun later after they grow and are established. I'm no longer dealing with tons of tiny grasshoppers in the garden. Now I have big huge ones flocking to the garden from the non-irrigated fields around us---thousands of non-irrigated acres. The differential grasshoppers are a huge issue as they really prefer forbs to grasses at this time of the year. I've started letting my Kong sunflowers wilt on purpose, which I'd rather not do, because the differential grasshoppers, which love sunflowers, will usually avoid wilting sunflowers. (Maybe the wilting impacts the leaves in some way the differential grasshoppers do not like?) So now, the dog's sunflowers that are self-sowing natives which border their dog yard are much more appealing to the differential grasshoppers than my garden sunflowers because I am not watering the garden sunflowers but am watering the dog yard sunflowers to turn them into an appealing plant for the differentials. Whatever it takes...... Tim just came in from the Great Outdoors and informed me it is hot out there. Thanks, I told him, I hadn't noticed. I think being at work 5 days a week somewhat skews his perception of the heat here because by the time he arrives home near 7 pm, we usually are a lot cooler than we were just 2 to 4 hours earlier. Today, for the first time in ages, instead of working on something at home, we went to the fire station and worked on various projects. I cleaned the kitchen, filled up the fridges with additional bottled water and Gatorade, inventoried firefighter snacks, etc. I noticed that, in our neighborhood between the fire station and our house, areas that are heavily shaded or that get shade at least half the day still look half decent. Areas that are in full sun? They look pathetic. My garden needs trees in it to shade the plants in hot weather, but I don't want the trees there all the time. Dawn

And the rest of it: CANNING & PROCESSING The recipe for pressure canning originally specified 1/3 cup vinegar and copies of that recipe are still available on the Internet. Pressure canning salsa has not been tested, therefore it is not officially recommended. If you wish to pressure can the salsa, you must include a full 1 cup of vinegar. Processing time that is currently used by some is 10 lbs. pressure for 30 minutes. Adjust for your altitude (see below). Because salsa is eaten out of the jar without heating and includes low acid vegetables such as garlic, onions and peppers, it is one of the riskier products to can at home due to two factors: the pH or acidity level (the normal cutoff point for boiling water bath vs. pressure canning is a pH of 4.6 and salsa can edge very close to that) and the density of the product. The salsa should be thin enough for the liquid portion to thoroughly suspend the chopped vegetables so the very center of the jar heats up to the same temperature as the outer portion next to the glass during processing. If you want it thicker, puree it AFTER you open the jar. DO NOT puree before processing - this would affect the density. Or, add a thickener such as Clear Jel or cornstarch AFTER you open the jar. DO NOT add other low acid vegetables before processing, such as corn or black beans. Only add them after you open the jar. ADJUSTMENTS If you live above 1000' in elevation, you need to calculate your altitude adjustments for both boiling water bath (BWB) and pressure canning (PC). As your altitude goes above 1000 feet the atmospheric pressure is reduced. This causes water to boil at temperatures lower than 212 degrees Fahrenheit. For safety in water bath canning, you must bring the contents of your jar to at least 212 degrees Fahrenheit. To compensate for the lower boiling temperature at altitude, you must increase processing time. For this salsa recipe, BWB times at altitudes of (per the Ball Blue Book): Up to 1000 ft. Processing time is 15 minutes. 1001 - 3000 ft. Increase processing time an extra 5 minutes to 20 minutes total. 3001 - 6000 ft. Increase processing time an extra 10 minutes to 25 minutes total. 6001 - 8000 ft. Increase processing time an extra 15 minutes to 30 minutes total. 8001 - 10,000 ft. Increase processing time an extra 20 minutes to 35 minutes total. Adjustments for pressure canning can be found in the Ball Blue Book or on their website. Do make sure you know the altitude where you do your canning. People that live in Denver know they are in the Mile High City and have to make adjustments, but portions of cities like Atlanta, Pittsburgh, and Oklahoma City are all above 1000' and it may be something you're not aware of and need to be compensating for. DO I HAVE TO USE BOTTLED LEMON JUICE? The pH scale runs from 0 (very acidic) to 14 (very alkaline). Each increment from 0 to 14 is 10 times more acidic/alkaline (remember the "magic" number of pH 4.6 for BWB vs. pressure canning). pH testing on fresh lemons ranged from 2.20 to 3.20, so one variety of lemon or even an individual lemon grown in a different orchard might be 10 times LESS acidic than another. Bottled lemon juice, which is processed to a standard acidity, is used for testing in recipes and is also pasteurized, therefore it also will not create any further enzyme reactions in your canned goods (per the folks at ReaLemon a couple of years ago). Note: Bottled lemon or lime juices are only called for when canning borderline pH foods (tomatoes and salsa usually). If you are making jams and jellies with high acid fruits (any fruit excluding Asian pears, bananas, mangoes, figs and melons), feel free to use fresh lemon or lime juice. Do I personally like using bottled lemon juice? Not particularly, but when a canning procedure SPECIFICALLY CALLS FOR IT, I use it without questioning it. A very good explanation is in this publication from North Dakota State University -"Why add lemon juice to tomatoes and salsa before canning?" Especially note the different pH values of individual varieties of tomatoes (and there are thousands more varieties). For the more science oriented, this 2004 paper from the NCHFP: