Warm Season Grow List for 2018
Okiedawn OK Zone 7
5 years ago
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AmyinOwasso/zone 6b
5 years agoOkiedawn OK Zone 7
5 years agoRelated Discussions
Lists of 'cool season' vs. 'warm season' annuals?
Comments (2)Cool season annuals are those planted in early spring/early fall (in places with mild winters) and usually replaced by warm season annuals when it starts to get hot. They look the best when nights are in the 40s, but many are hardy (tolerate frosts) and some can make it through the summer.. they just won't look as good. The most common are: pansy, viola, sweet alyssum, linaria, diascia, nemesia, snapdragon, lobelia, bacopa, dianthus, cornflower, calendula, nasturtium, stock, poppies, ornamental kale and cabbage, sweet pea, argyranthemum, regal geraniums, dusty miller, primrose, larkspur and delphinium. Some of those might be perennials in you climate. The list of warm season annuals is endless and I could name hundreds, but they're basically all the annuals that weren't listed above. I just wanted to point that in late April you'll most likely use only cool season annuals, as it'll probably be too cold to the warm season ones get going. Mauricio...See MoreWarm-Season Veggie Grow List
Comments (12)Johnny, I love crowder peas and think Americans should eat more of them. They're just as strong and resilient in our worst heat and drought as the more popular southern peas like pink eye purple hulls, zipper, lady and cream peas but just try finding any fresh ones in the grocery story in the summer----it isn't going to happen! So, we grow our own. I do wonder if there is some inherent bias against them because a lot of them are dark in color and also cook up a dark "gravy" when cooked. (Cornbread exists to soak up the gravy, does it not?) I also think their crowded, sort of smushed-in, sometimes dimpled appearance is not as appealing to some folks as the more normal-looking other types of southern peas. This kind of reminds me of the way some people don't like cutshort beans because they look "funny". I always suggest they just taste them instead of hating on them because they don't look "right". Nothing ever will take the place of crowders in my garden, although my favorite southern peas likely always will be Pink Eye Purple Hull. I could plant only PEPH varieties and be happy, but do try to add a crowder, lady, zipper or cream pea to my list every year. I like watching for some of the more obscure ones at Southern Exposure Seed Exchange, Heavenly Seed, Willhite Seed or Baker Creek Heirloom Seed. I'm not sure about the others, but I know Willhite and SESE sell bulk seed of their various southern peas for folks with larger gardens. I like my southern peas of all types harvested green, so I spend an inordinate amount of time in the summer sitting with a bowl of southern peas in my lap shelling them. (It takes me back to my childhood and evenings spent sitting on the front porch shelling peas with the porch light on and moths crashing into the screen door while seeking the light.) If I liked the southern peas in their drier stage, I'd buy a pea sheller and leave them on the plants longer and harvest them when they were dry enough to go through the sheller without being smashed/crushed to death. A Farmer's Market near my hometown always had a pea sheller running on weekends, shelling any sort of southern pea that a shopper had just purchased. To me, a sheller is one of those old-timey southern farm things that is disappearing in this day and age when so many people just buy canned or dry southern peas in packages at the store. If I was growing southern peas for a food bank, I'd grow crowders for sure, and I'd harvest them after they were dry enough for the sheller to shell them. I don't know of anything that gives a better return in the dead of summer than all types of southern peas, including crowders. Depending on what sort of soil they're growing in and how well it holds moisture, you often don't even have to water them at all. Even in 2011, my southern peas produced well, given the circumstances, which at our house (and at many others in OK that year) included no rainfall for almost 3 months and high temperatures over 100 degrees for around 90-100 consecutive days. They did wilt when we were hitting 110-115 every day, but so did everything else, including this gardener. Do y'all grow crowders for the food bank? I think they would be an important part of your crop rotation, especially since you can just rototill the spent plants into the ground for soil improvement after the harvest is over. Oh, I guess harvesting tons of them by hand would be labor intensive, but so are a lot of other crops. Usually, when I harvest southern peas, I don't process the different types separately. I just shell them all together and cook them and eat them all together. I do the same thing with snap peas and shellies. I like having diversity on my dinner plate. Some folks don't like to mix together all their peas, but I grow too many different varieties for me to sit there and harvest them and shell them and process them all separately. I'd never sleep. Remember, too, that all southern peas can be used to make pea hull jelly, which is one of those wonderful, tasty jellies that people cannot believe came from a waste product like pea hulls. My favorite, though, is from Pink Eye Purple Hulls. I've never made pea hull jelly from crowders as I generally grow less of them. I grow all of my vining type southern peas on the garden fences, so I occasionally lose a pea pod or leaf here or there to the nibbling deer, but not as often as a person would think. My favorite way to plant vining types of southern peas is to leave the last harvest on the vines and to leave the vines on the fences all winter long. When I yank down the spent vines at soil preparation time, the remaining pods split open and the peas fall to the ground. The next season's crop just pops up on its own without any planting action on my part. I've kept Red Ripper peas going for years that way, and hope to do the same with the calico crowders. We'll see if the pine voles allow that. Last year they ate the roots of every type of bush southern pea I grew, at the rate of one plant per night beginning some time in July. They preferred PEPHs to all others, and their favorite was Mackey. They ate all of my Mackey plants before they moved on to other varieties. They didn't bother Red Ripper or Colossus at all. Dawn...See MoreGrow List 2018
Comments (7)So i planted most of my peas today direct seeded. Just planted, did not water. If weather is good i will finish planting them tomorrow. Looks like i might be able to squeeze in a few more depending. I still need to plant the Nap Gene (potential open keel trait)* one. And i might be able to plant both Templeton's Delta Dusk and Heather maybe. I might also try to squeeze in those orc gene peas (orange cotyledons) that may have higher beta carotene. And that's basically it. Room for two more for sure, room for 4-5 more max. I planted these ones today shortest to tallest: Super Dwarf: Mighty Midget Orange-pod Short-ish: "Joseph's" Red Snap (last year my earliest variety other than super dwarfs) (perhaps it is time to rename this as it's not really Joseph's. only descended from his original work and highly selected by me for good red color. But i'm lazy so that is still my current unofficial name). [blank spot] Medium: Large Podded Wrinkled Seeds (selected from unknowns) Purple Passion hybrid* "Joseph's" Yellow-Podded (most wrinkled seeds)(perhaps it is time to rename this as it's not really Joseph's. only descended from his original work. But I'm lazy so that is still my current unofficial name). Jupiter [Blank Spot] TALL: Joni's Taxi Purples (most wrinkled seeds) True Mummys Biskopens Hybrids Heavily-Branched...See MoreMy first "pinch," of 2018 growing season...a Beer's Black.
Comments (15)Anna, Figs almost seem to have personalities like people. Some varieties are slow to grow, need to be stimulated, while others are bursting with energy and grow like weeds. Then there's a particular tree of a known very vigorous variety that just has no energy or motivation to thrive no matter what we do to nurture it. As much as I like my fig trees, there are no freeloaders tolerated. If after a reasonable amount of time, and after every effort is made to help it along, if a tree is a poor grower, it gets discarded....hard to do, but what else is there to do? You do have to give such figs time, though, sometimes a few years. Baby figs are like baby anything. They need TLC. It's best to start training a fig tree when it is a baby. It's easier to just rub off a emerging growth you don't want than prune it away when it is 3' long. Remember too, a fig tree is not the most balanced looking tree even with the most careful training. They seem to have a mind of their own regarding where a growth will emerge. I go along with them to some degree, as long as they don't look too lopsided. Enjoy your figs! Moses...See MoreLoneJack Zn 6a, KC
5 years agolast modified: 5 years agoOkiedawn OK Zone 7
5 years agoLoneJack Zn 6a, KC
5 years agolast modified: 5 years agoOkiedawn OK Zone 7
5 years agoAmyinOwasso/zone 6b
5 years agoLoneJack Zn 6a, KC
5 years agolast modified: 5 years agoAmyinOwasso/zone 6b
5 years agoOkiedawn OK Zone 7
5 years agoAmyinOwasso/zone 6b
5 years agoRebecca (7a)
5 years agolast modified: 5 years ago
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Okiedawn OK Zone 7Original Author