Sanantoniorose, not that it effects your set, up but here is some additional information that popped out this morning from the Internet, about other plants that like and grow well in moving water. Quote: ..."Certain submerged plants grow well in moving water, such as the pockets in streams and under waterfalls. Others require still, placid water to grow. Vallisneria, Ranunculus, Sagittaria, and Potamogeton all do well in slowly to moderately moving water. They look great in pond narrows were the water will flow and give the plants direction, adding to the effect of the moving water. . . . Those that perform well in greater wind and wave movement are also suitable near fountains and the mouths of waterfalls. One of my favorite places to plant Vallisneria americana ÂGiant is in a deep stream or near the edge of a waterfall where its long strap-like leaves can undulate in the moving water. Dwarf Sagittaria (Sagittaria subulata) is great in 4-12 inches of wavy water where it forms an aquatic sod." end quote. From Speichert, S., Encyclopedia of Water Garden Plants, p 343 Timber Press, 2004. End of quote. The terrestrial plant, Impatiens [Lat] or Impatient[Eng] [Balsam Family +], if planted bare root in running water, in a stream or waterfall, will out do Impatiens/Impatient planted in soil in the garden, for size and blooms. I thought that this maybe of interest to you and others [then again maybe not!] "Horton"

Anne, my Gramhats here certainly have that issue. But then, so do most of my other roses, as well. I think that is a factor in the leaf-drop we've had here on many roses. In addition to heat-stress, the leaves were just SO bad, they fell off. New foliage coming back in is lovely. I know this winter won't bring us "drought-busting" rain. I'd be grateful, though, for just enough rain to dilute all of that mineral build-up in the soil. 'Lady Ann Kidwell' was among the first to drop her foliage. She's got all new leaves now, and is just finishing a huge flush of bloom.

yes they will be evergreen. if i plant one, i get about 5 in a growth season.

If the tub is cast iron (with a cast iron apron that meets the floor) you can sometimes get away with grouting the tub/floor line, but it still can crack due to movement. There's a lot of "depends" in that statement though, so caulk is almost always the better choice. If the tub apron is acrylic, caulk. If the apron framing is site-built wood construction like for a drop-in tub, then caulk. Or use a baseboard or shoe molding. So yes, to be safest, caulk the red and blue lines. Over this past winter I checked out an installation where epoxy grout was used. The installer told the homeowner that "no worries, epoxy grout is bulletproof and uber-strong, it won't crack." He was right. The grout was stronger than the tile, so the movement caused the tile to crack instead of the grout. There's always a weakest link, and it will eventually show itself. You want to control the weakest link instead of letting it have its way.