the process is all wrapped up in soil temperature ... soil warmth.. and a few warm days to you.. does not mean any appreciable warmth has gotten and STAYED in the soil ... especially with cold z5 nights ... when the soil warms enough, thru out the entire root zone ... and does not cool at night ... so as to start root development.. then the plants will react.. by extending above ground.. so it can photosynthesize.. sunlight.. to feed the roots.. etc .. simple enough ... in my z5 ... mid may???? ... especially on new transplants ... stuff that has been there all winter.. might start faster ... this basically means.. that your EARLY planted plants.. are in suspended animation in your z5 right now ... ken ps: ass-per-gas .. is extremely late to come up.. because of its deep root system .. on established plants ...

First, look at my tools in the picture. I start very far outside with the cultivating fork and work inside with it just to remove the soil to the point where serious root begins. The idea is to find the largest roots without damaging them too much. A hoe can also be useful for this part. After removing soil to first roots up to the trunk I go back outside as far as 3' from the trunk and begin aggressively chopping soil with the cultivating fork. Then I use the conventional shovel making cuts more or less horizontal to the flow of the roots so I can loosen the soil without doing too much damage to the roots. I gradually find the largest roots this way and free them up gradually using the fork and the shovel. I also begin using the solid metal King of Spades spade also going horizontally at first to minimize damage. The idea is to pull away soil without tearing too much root. So yes, I start on the outside and work my way in. The soil is always quite moist here in fall and spring so I don't have to water at any point. I never water transplanted plants in in my nursery or when making installations with dormant plants. I have no fear of air pockets, whatever the lit has to say. I've seen fresh root grow right through open space in the soil. As long as the humidity is about 100% why shouldn't it? The smaller trees that I move after growing for a couple of years are always very crowded as I have them in a fenced area tightly spaced (too tightly, actually). It still is not hard to move them without damaging a lot of root although it can be claustrophobic. I've rarely moved older trees that are growing closely together but you can only do the best you can and the method would be the same. I tip the tree as it begins to loosen- but gentle enough not to tear unfreed root, getting closer and closer to the trunk. Most of the final work is with the spade but loose soil is removed with the regular shovel and fork as I go. I should have my wife come out and take pictures the next time me or my helper moves a big tree to give you better images of the process.

I for one am not an advocate of bare rooting Japanese maples at any time other than when fully dormant. Their roots are extremely sensitive to disturbance and the trauma of bare rooting, shipping and replanting at this time of the season is sufficient to send any JM into shock. My preference would have been to pot it up and baby it for awhile before planting out in the ground in full-on sun, specially in mid June. My nursery advocates extreme care when planting even well-established containerized or B&B maples at this time of year and our summers are notoriously late to start and NOT hot when they do arrive, if rather dry. I think David's advice is sound. Without seeing your soil and planting conditions firsthand, it is only speculation but the amending you have done in "heavy clay" soil may be creating a poor drainage situation - too much moisture remaining in close contact with the roots and not percolating down through the soil level. Generally, if working with a heavy soil it is recommended to dig a very wide but shallow planting hole adding no amendments. Plant the tree high, backfill with the soil you removed and add the amendments as a mulch to smooth out to the top of the roots. This wide, dished planting hole will allow for adequate drainage without creating a bathtub effect of a deeper, amended hole. Personally, after such a short period of time in the ground, I'd be inclined to lift the tree and pot up into a container where you are able to more closely monitor the amount of sun and water it will receive and give some much needed TLC. Forget the fertilizer - stressed plants are unable to metabolize much anyway. And you can add me to the list of those who think that SuperThrive (or SuperJive, as a friend refers to it) is pretty much just very well-marketed snake oil. The active ingredient (primarily B1) is present in such an infinitesimal amount and then is further diluted by water that it is providing virtually no measurable benefit to the plant.

I ordered two Windmill Palms in October 2007 bare root and they stayed outside for two days with lows going to 30 both nights. Then in February 2008 I order two more and they were shipped in some of the coldest weather last year. They were sent to Lexington, Kentucky where I was living at the time. Jake