Upgrading entrance door
Jay Walsh
5 years ago
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Comments (11)
HALLETT & Co.
5 years agoPatricia Colwell Consulting
5 years agoRelated Discussions
entry door: double door or single door with double side lite?
Comments (5)Here is my unfinished door. It is a 3 foot door with 12 inch sidelights. The door is 8ft tall with an 18 transom. My entry is 6'3 wide. edited: Fixed picture (sideways) Also, the glass still has the protective plastic. Molding for above door is being made and the door is very filthy (they just finished trim and sawdust is everywhere). Hope this helps you visualize your space. This post was edited by abrshafer on Fri, Sep 27, 13 at 18:42...See Moreupgrading interior doors (to solid)
Comments (10)Flooring type seldom makes a difference with prehung units in the normal 82" to 83" rough opening. That height opening leaves plenty of room for setting the bottom of the frames to the necessary level for the flooring. Buying a slab is the best way to replace just a door. While hinge and latch locations are somewhat standardized, the specs are not universal. To locate the hinges/latch, lay the old door(with hardware removed) on top of the new slab. Mark the hinge and latch locations. There are latch installing kits sold at home improvement stores(about $30) that have the two hole saws needed to cut out for the latch. The hinge mortices are a bit different for DIYers. A template for hinges can cost from $30 to over $200 and a router is necessary to use those. A hammer and chisel is the old tried and true method, but chisels are generally not sharp enough even when new. I use several grits of sandpaper(up to 8,000 grit), a piece of marble slab(dead flat) and a $20 roller guide to sharpen chisels. (Called Scary Sharp.) Other sharpening systems run from $50 to over $500....See MoreThinking of upgrading interior doors
Comments (10)Thanks, everyone, for your comments and suggestions. You guys actually brought up a point that's festered in my head for a while -- what's up with our door clearances? There must be a 1-2" gap under our bedroom doors. I suspect they were undercut to make room for carpeting at one time, but then the carpeting was (thankfully) taken out. I'd love to get a door that significantly reduces the gap, as some of you suggested, but I also remember hearing something to the effect of what handymac was saying -- you need the larger clearance to ensure proper air circulation/house pressure balancing. If there's one thing we absolutely don't want to make worse, it's the HVAC balancing in our house. It's already dreadful. This whole subject opens up a can of worms for me. In fact, I wonder if I should spend a little time over at the HVAC forum... Cheers, Ava...See MoreTrouble upgrading cabinet hinges to soft close. Door not flush
Comments (1)When we "converted" our cabinet doors to soft-close, we chose to go with dampers instead. They were very easy to install and are still working just fine 14 years later. I don't know if it has to do with your cabinet type or not (framed vs frameless), but my suggestion is to put the original hinges back and go the damper route. We used "Blumotion for Compact Hinges" and got them online at Woodworker's Hardware. https://www.wwhardware.com/blumotion-cabinet-mount-for-compact-hinges-b971a970 We ordered part # B971A9700 It says "Designed for use with Blum Compact hinges", but it doesn't matter as our hinges are not Blum (they're Salice) and they worked with our cabinet hinges....See MoreJay Walsh
5 years agoJudy Mishkin
5 years agomimimomy
5 years agochiflipper
5 years agoAnglophilia
5 years agokmg11
5 years agoJeffrey R. Grenz, General Contractor
5 years agostrategery
5 years ago
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