Hi Nina, "I buy packets that show large, full blooms and when they bloom they are about half the suggested size and one layer of petals instead of three or more." Some seed companies buy their seeds from growers who do not spend the extra money to hire people to rogue their fields, and the zinnia varieties "run out" under those conditions. Generally, the seeds in packets on seed racks are not the best. "I have bought several packets that show bluish purple and when they bloom they are always magenta or towards pink. I don't really believe there is a bluish zinnia." The color pictures on seed packets are not reliable and, even if they were pretty good to start with, the ink colors aren't lightfast, and some colors fade with exposure to sunlight. In general, seed racks are not a good place to store seeds. I have even seen seed packets that were water damaged, but still for sale in a home store. The best way to purchase seeds is by mail order or online sale from a reputable seed company. Higher prices do not always ensure higher quality, but lower prices usually mean lower seed quality. You stand a better chance of getting quality seed if you buy from a seed company that also sells to commercial growers. "I don't really believe there is a bluish zinnia." There are bluish zinnias, but they are not for sale commercially. As a person who grows zinnias as a hobby, I can assure you that there are lots of zinnias that you can't get commercially. I don't think there will be a true blue zinnia until blue genes (I always think of blue jeans when I say that) from other flowers that have true blues are added to zinnias by genetic engineering. That has already been done to get blue roses. But in the meantime, there are bluish lavender zinnias that actually look sky blue when they first open in the shade. But on exposure to sun, that color turns to a lavender. They are not available commercially. "Does anyone know if it could be a deficiency?" Zinnia buds and blooms can be seriously harmed by certain nutrient deficiencies. For the best results, use a soluble nutrient formula that contains a complete range of macronutrients and micronutrients. That includes the usual nitrogen, phosphorous, and potassium as well as magnesium, boron, copper, iron, manganese, molybdenum, and zinc. Plants, including zinnias, also need quite a lot of calcium, which unfortunately is almost always absent from soluble nutrient formulas. Hydroponics growers almost always supply calcium as calcium nitrate to their plants. Garden soil usually contains some calcium, but not always enough for zinnias (or tomatoes). If you have previously added lime or gypsum to your garden soil, it should contain enough calcium. If I see calcium deficiency symptoms in my zinnias (and I do from time to time), I include some calcium nitrate in their foliar spray. Foliar feeding is a good way to make sure your zinnias get the nutrients they need. If I see boron deficiency symptoms, I add a little extra boron in the form of boric acid in my foliar spray. You have to be careful with boron, because it doesn't take a lot of it to reach a toxicity level. I also supply a little cobalt and nickel to my indoor zinnias, but there is usually enough of those in garden soil. And it is beneficial to supply soluble silicon to zinnias, to increase the strength of their cell walls, which makes for stronger stems and leaves, which contributes to disease resistance. Rice growers frequently supply soluble silicon in their fertilizer, because it is important for rice stems to be strong to keep the seedheads out of the water. It may seem counter-intuitive, but sand is not a way to supply silicon. I use a solution of potassium silicate to supply soluble silicon to my zinnias. ZM

Greetings! There are lots of variables in getting a plant to grow successfully-I am by far NO expert, but here's a few things... *Is the plant hardy to your area? I know I do a lot of zone-stretching and I have one area in my yard that I consider a micro-climate one zone higher, but otherwise if I see something is for a zone 6 or higher, I won't even consider it. Zone 5 is 'iffy' here... I also try to get some plants locally that I know will take the weather here. Somethings it might not matter, shrubs, fruit trees, I think your best bet is to get it from the same zone you're in. *Honestly, sometimes it's just a crap shoot. I can grow some things without even thinking about it that I've read are difficult. There are others which are supposed to be incredibly easy but I can't get to grow. *Soil, does the plant need acid or sweet soil? For some plants it's a necessity that they have the right soil. *Sun-does it get enough sun or too much? *Water, can it take a dry spell or does it need to be watered regularly? *What plants do you know of that grow well in your area? *How big were the plants when you got them? Some of the 'starter' plants some places sell take anywhere from 2 to 6 years before you will see anything. Sometimes you get bad plants...it just happens. For the most part, I don't have the time/energy/inclination to 'baby' most of my plants...I do the basics (fertilize, prune, some soil ammendments, mulch) but after that, they pretty much are on their own. I feel for you...Gardening did not come easy to me, a LOT of mistakes (translate: dead plants), a lot of patience, a lot of trial and error... How long have you had the currents, how big were they when you got them? What kind are they? I understand currents are not all that long lived a bush. I have some that are ten years old, I planted them in two different places...one lingered a year or two before finally dieing, the other is doing well. I think by year three you should be seeing something, if not, get rid of it and get another. The long 'blueberry'...is that a type of viburnam or a 'real' blueberry? I've never had any luck with blueberries, even the ones that are supposed to grow in my zone. I amend the soil, I mulch, I all but dance naked around it when there's a full moon but they still all die... I have two of the infamous easy to grow manchurian apricot. Sure it grows well, but it doesn't fruit (all my other apricots fruit like mad). I've had it for six years, last year I informed it that this was it, no fruit and it would be firewood this fall....it's been warned...

I solved my issue, mdln. I sliced off the yellowing nodes with a sharp knife.dipped the tips in hot wax. I also have them in only water. (No rocks/gravel) so then there is nothing blocking the pores. Since making this post, I already see signs of new shoots growing. Good luck!

Arthrum: good point, the temps in my house are only kept above 65 degrees, but it still seems that some temperature hardy plants still show dislike of my repotting... Dbarron: oh my! Sounds like a tragedy! I get upset enough when I break of a new shoot! Vtandrea: thanks for the suggestion! I'll definitely try it on one of my oncidiums! Jane: I live in the Oakland hills in the SF Bay Area. I grow almost all my indoor orchids in the same spot, positioned around a fireplace to control the amount of light. The facing of the house isn't the best. 80% of the light is late morning to afternoon sun . 90% of the windows are west facing :( like the house... The problem might be I repotted at the wrong time. I didn't a lot of reporting in the winter/ late fall (whoops...)