Aha - I looked around - and the list is long - and they all look the same - sunscald, drafty window, too cold, cold water used for watering, cold water drops on the leaves - and there is one I didn't hear before - zinc deficiency. Anyway - I have a plant - Santpaulia confusa - that grows like a moppy weed it is, blooms all the time - annd always develops yellow spots with yellow veins. What it wants - I do not know - and it doesn't pass this spotting t the neighbours. You have your plant for several months - and leaves live for a year - so if there were some unlucky curcumstances to damage the leaves - the plant will grow out of it. I.

Here, in my area, I found that my soil had virtually no iron. The top soil was high quality and was applied many years ago, and we always had a decent garden. About 5 years ago I decided to get soil tests done, and took samples from all over the garden area which is 2000 sq.ft. which is just for the vegetables. The tests came back indicating that iron was not available to plants. I found that the blacker the soil, the less iron it contained. That year, I applied a 50 pound bag of iron sulfate as well as 50 pounds of lime to counteract some of the extra acid iron sulfate leaves. I didn't do a soil test the following year, so I decided to also concentrate on humic acid, and many other minerals besides iron. That year, I applied a large dose of humate and iron again. That was 4 years ago. This year, I had soil tests done again and was amazed that the iron level was just normal, but nitrogen was extremely low and was now needed. That told me to put down two kinds of nitrogen, one is bird feather meal and the other is dried blood meal. These two should bring up the low nitrogen level slowly. Since adding the iron, I have not lost all my tomatoes to septoria leaf spot, and many of the other vegetables like cucumbers and squash are really great growers. I tried using those home test kits for NPK and pH, but they were never quite accurate enough, compared to what a lab shows. In any case, I always make a point to rotate crops and plant winter rye in fall, so it will produce natural nitrogen. Last years planting of rye grass was hindered due to the fat we had excessive rain and was planted a bit too late to fully germinate. Even for that, the birds were feeding on the rye seeds as well, and stripped most of them.

Hard to give much specific advice without being there to look at it with you. A few thoughts... think "waves"... curved shapes like eyebrows and teardrops, waves of a single color flowing into a different color or variegated or different leaf shape. waves go best with waves rather than individual specimen plants - unless the individual specimens are significantly larger than the mass near them. I used to have a series of mass plantings... lancifolias (green), August Moon (yellow), Krossa Regal (tall, blue), and Golden Tiara (green with yellow margin). In general, waves look best with complementary waves... remember that hostas are round. I know that sounds obvious, but it does determine how you plant a mass. Three hostas of the same type form an equilateral triangle. Four make an equal-sided parallelogram. 7 make a hexagon. In chemistry, it is called "hexogonal closest packing. dump some marbles in a box and let them find their natural arrangement and you will see the series of interlocking equilateral triangles and hexagons. I wouldn't want to dominate too much of my landscape with lancifolia - the most likely candidate for the plain green shiny one. It is prone to show damage later in the year and is... well... kind of boring if the mass is too large. On the other hand, you can plant with the idea of removing them later as you amass other landscaping ideas (and hostas!)

Take into consideration all of your existing fixed elements like cabinets, trim, etc. I’d steer you away from those grey floors regardless of the size of your house if you have any natural wood stained trim or cabinets.