First, one comment on your plan...instead of having the sink centered on the countertop, I'd slide the sink to the left for added headroom. Secondly, you're still missing one aspect of code, and that's the minimum ceiling height for the room. A minimum of 50% of the floor space must have a ceiling height higher than 7' tall. Your ceiling hits 7' high about 34-3/8" away from the knee wall, so you need equal amounts of floor space on either side of that 34-3/8" line. Your options? Right now your bathroom is 5', or 60" deep. Your first option is to increase the depth of the bathroom by moving the bathroom wall further into the attic space so it's 69" away from the kneewall. Instead of being 5' deep, your bathroom will be 5'9" deep. By increasing the amount of floorspace within the bathroom that is over 7' high that will put you right on the 50% mark. Your second option is to do the reverse of the above. Instead of increasing the amount of floorspace with a ceiling height over 7', you instead decrease the amount of floorspace with a ceiling height less than 7'. To do that, leave the doorway wall where it is. Pad out the bathroom's kneewall about 9" into the bathroom. This will reduce your bathroom depth from 5' to 4'4". That might leave you without code-required knee space between the toilet and the wall in front of the toilet, so you might have to rotate the toilet. You might have to increase the length of the room to get adequate toilet and vanity space. I haven't scaled out any required fixture clearances, but here's a rough idea of what my words are trying to convey. The thing is, there's just no real satisfactory solution going this route: One note with the second option: I'd consider using a pedestal sink instead of a vanity. Although you'd lose storage, use the depth of the padded out kneewall area to the left of the sink for built-in storage Then there is always spitting the difference. Padding out the kneewall a few inches, and moving the doorway wall out a few inches.

You might think about checking into the ceiling mounted rracks. You might get more room. Also some of them are flexible and can be bent by hand which might help you. I found some of these tracks while searching for a track for my shower/tub where I wanted to enclose one side and part of the second, then make an "s" and tuck the rod away into a cubby. One company is curtaintracks.com. I don't see why you couldn't adapt for your purpose as well.

Bill, since her shower bed is only two years old, what would that indicate was done wrong in the installation? Plugged drain holes? Improper slope? First off, it sounds like (by way of the spongy feeling) like the mortar bed didn't have enough cement in it, or it wasn't mixed well enough, and now the dry pack (mortar) is degrading into sand. Secondly, the mildew on the grout would tell me that at the very least the weep holes are plugged, and with all that I (pretty much) KNOW to be going on, I'd be shocked if the installer were conscientious enough to install a preslope under the pan membrane. Bill, would like your input on the responsiblity question also. For responsibility, follow the money. Whomever you paid, that's who is responsible to you. If that was the installer, then that's who is responsible to you. If it was the GC you paid, then HE'S the one that's responsible to you, and the installer's responsible to him. One more thing Bill, if my contractor is going to replace the same way, the problem will not be corrected. Am I right? Unfortunately, yes. My suggestion would be to first get him to claim responsibility for the problem. Once that's happened, recommend that you both bring in a third party to diagnose the problem in person-- someone whose opinion you would both accept, and then follow that person's recommendation. The only question would be who pays for this third party to come in and diagnose the problem.

Who uses the bathroom? Is this your only tub? Your first idea was not replacing the vanity, so I assumed you wanted a quick and cheap solution? Are you planning a complete makeover? Would it be an idea to add a separate shower? Or perhaps move the tub to the mirror wall and create a doorway next to the chimney? (closing off two doorways and create a new one). Vanity on the bedroom wall. Us the chimney functional? Or could it be opened up to create a niche? Lots of questions :) And I like white bathrooms, use some color and wood to bring it to life. Use an oak worktop on your vanity with a semi built-in sink, oak vinyl on the floor, paint your vanity slate grey, same color on the mirror wall, steel fixtures. By relocating some of your 'hardware' you could change the long layout for the better. Even a floating vanity would help a lot.