Hey Jojo!!!!! I am so happy to see you back! As for the citrus, they shut down once the root temps in pots drop below the 55 degree mark. So If I want to keep them actively growing the best possible way, I MUST keep them above those temps to continue to produce healthy rich green leaves and avoid stressing them. They will survive, but will behave very badly as all citrus do up here in my region in pots exposed to temps that cold. That is why even the nurseries here refuse to let theirs sit out when temps drop that much. Once it gets way to cold to even keep them in my greenhouse, I will bring them in with room temps hovering around 50 but never above the 60;s and they are just put on hold. They stay green and keep the fruit. They may not grow much, but I also avoid leaf drop and many other stress related issues. If I want to keep them actively growing all winter, then I give them sun and artificial light well over 12 hours in room temps higher than the 60's and they thrive once again continually growing and taking up nutrients. If I lower the sunlight level to less than that in rooms that warm, they dramatically drop their leaves, loos their rich greeness and invite pests. If I provide sunlight levels to lets say just a south facing window through the winter or less, then they can handle regular house room temps without drawbacks, but if they are in windows that can not provide as much sun as a south facing one, then they MUST be in a much cooler room and stay that way until I am ready for active growth again come the spring. As you can tell, it took me many years to accomplish this and many years to understand my citrus trees react the way they do in CONTAINERS and how to avoid very stressful situations on them. So far so good! Yes I may not kill them, right away that is, but they will produce poorly and not live up to my standards. Now if they were in the ground, then that is a whole different story! I would care less if we had many frigid nights knowing that the ground temps will not coll off as fast as a mix in pots no matter what size. I have a friend that lives in Daytona Florida whom gets lots of freezes, and as much as he will loose some branches and leaves, he never looses the whole tree because the ground stays much warmer than his potted ones. Those have to go in for him. Ok, I am all breathed out..lol Jojo, WELCOME BACK! Maybe we can have a bit more fun around here. Mike

I think that one night of going below freezing should be ok... I would wrap for the winter though! All 4 of my trees are wrapped in a similar fashion (Italian snowman). All trees were wrapped by end of Thanksgiving weekend. 1.)Mulch (compost around the base of the tree (6-10 inches) 2.)Tie all all branches towards the center of the tree upwards. 3.)Wrap entire tree starting with the trunk in 1 layer of fiberglass insulation. 4.)Wrap insulation with 1 layer of blue tarp. 5.)Complete with a bucket on the top so rain does not enter. I will see my trees in the Spring (end of March-early April)

I am also in zone 6b. I will be planting my snow peas this weekend. Good luck to you! Peas are pretty frost hardy, so you can try them a little early and take your chances. If you succession plant (every 2 weeks plant a few, for example) you might be able to find the optimum time for your garden. Experiment and have fun. Most of the time there are far too many seeds in the packets for me, so you can lose a few without worrying about losing your harvest.

As tempting as it is to plant everything out, I have learned the hard way to wait until after the second week of March. I have lost enough plants to one last frost in that week that I just don't risk it, despite what extended forecasts might say.