I have lazy neighbors who have been allowing their two dogs to run freely and poop in my yard. It used to be an empty lot so I kind of get it but sorry, someone lives here now. After 3 years of going out to yell at the dogs or to actually chase them off (when I see them) and shovelling poop back to their yard the damn dogs still come over. I thought when dogs smell the poop they learn thats's where to poop? I must have sent 40 to 50 piles back to their side. The best part was just the other day either someone also returned them a present, in their driveway, or ome of their dogs actually pooped in the middle of their driveway. Karma is a b!tch. Anyway, dog deterrents DO NOT WORK so do not suggest them. Pellets were a waste of $$, ultrasonic repeller did nothing. I'm not wasting any more effort or $$ on solutions that don't work. And I'm not calling animal control. Range wars only make living in your neighborhood stressful. I want to come home to a castle, not to a war. We get along otherwise so why make things stressful? I'm not talking to them, either. They are already aware of the problem and really, I shouldn't have to ask you to clean up after your dog. Why are we all so entiltled to our rights over everyone elses's anymore? There is absolutely no respect left in this world which I think is really the crux of the matter. You can't ask anyone to do anything that they think infringes their rights. Uh sorry, but we didn't fight two world wars and countless others so it would be acceptable for you to be lazy and let your dogs poop all over. I'm done playing the game. I'm fencing the entire side yard on that side now, probably close to 200 feet. Enough is enough. No one else on the street of large yards has a fence out front so that part of it will stand out. But it's the only thing that will work. I know it's not an option for everyone but it is for me and I have no issues with the look of a beautiful 3 rail white vinyl fence with wire mesh running down the side. And landscaping the inside of the fence line will be fun! I will do the right thing and let them know I am doing it(no setback here so it's only fair to warn them). And when they ask why......problem solved. I'm sure the dogs will start going on the other side now; it will be interesting to see how that neighbor, who has 3 small children, swallows that pill.

Angela Noble, Applying 3 coats is meaningless if, the contractor does not prep or apply the proper coverage. All of Pallman's water borne finishes require a final cut at 100 or 120 grit and 450-500 coverage per gallon. The sealer will seal 80% of the pores with proper coverage of 450 sq. ft. per gallon. Allowing 20% of wood for the first coat of polyurethane to grab onto. With an additional 2 coats of water borne polyurethane at the proper coverage of 450-500 per gallon. Your floors should be more than sealed. If, the products was diluted or applied improperly. Your floors will not have the proper coverage and will not be properly sealed. Leaving it vulnerable to premature wear and failure. How was the product applied: T-bar, rolled, brush? Are there gaps in the floor? Was there any thinning of the product?

I've researched A LOT on this and found that Cork is the way to go but you must be careful that it comes from Portugal. Anywhere else is likely to be mixed with something and you want 100%. Cork is naturally water repellent, antimicrobial, resistant to mold and mildew. It is a little pricey but well worth it. A bonus is it is bug repellent and great for those with allergies. Unfortunately, there is no sealant so far that resists ammonia which is the main component of pet urine. Waterproof only means water, we are dealing with a chemical here. That being said, while not resistant to it cork holds up best to the ammonia, meaning you still have to thoroughly clean that spot with the proper cleaner but not within 5 minutes of the dog peeing. Less wiggle room with waterproof sealants but cheaper. Definitely want to go for vinyl or tile if looking for the cheapest route and no floating floors or sticky floors use grout and seal it well and stay on top of cleaning. Again make sure you use the appropriate cleaners. BTW I have 3 Chihuahua's one who is an inbred so had some incontinent issues and another who was diagnosed with diabetes so also has some issues with incontinence it was just suggested to me to try a belly band so I am going to look into that. I hope I was of some help. Good luck.

Baking soda and vinegar cancel each other out, but not hydrogen peroxide (although the reaction might weaken it). One site suggested a vinegar and water mix, followed with baking soda, but that didn't work for me. I've read Nature's Miracle changed their formula and doesnt work as well as before. There are other "enzyme" products - I tried a pet store version which didn't work. A new one called Anti-icky poo is really expensive. Guess I'll try the hydrogen/baking soda version, and will buy a black light to see if the cat urine stain is still there (and elsewhere). And I PROMISE to post back my results.....just like the person below did, lol. Vanessa Buddle So yes this original post was along long time ago,but I’m at my wits end with my baby boy peeing all over my brand new house and brand new couch. I’ve been using straight vinegar on the spots straight after he’s pee’d there,it’s not helping at all and after I close the house up,even just for 5 mins,it absolutely reaks from him marking his territory. I can’t get angry with him as it’s a natural act that he is doing,but it’s at the point where I can’t eat in my house or have people over. This smell has to be gone before summer otherwise it’s going to be unbearable. I know that getting him desexed may not solve this issue and that’s my worry as he’s a rag doll and I breed them.(in saying that,he only started marking the place after that last litter.the litter was mainly boys and I think he felt intimidated)anyway,please wish me luck and I will definitely let you know the results after trying this recipe.Tia September 5, 2018