Illy, I agree with Bejay. While I understand the impulse to "get it right the first time," since haven't tried canning yet and aren't sure what you'll want to can, I suggest you find out more about what you like, what interests you, how you end up actually canning, before you spend a lot of money on equipment. You probably want to start with BWB canning, and if you really are going to mostly make just "a few half-pints at a time," then for BWB you don't even NEED a canner. You just need a pot with a lid that is deeper to hold the largest jars you plan to can -- enough deeper that there is room for the jars to sit on top of a rack of some kind, and that there can be water at at roiling boil covering the jars well. You may well have such a pot already. Like bejay, I found that the key wasn't the pot or canner itself but a rack for the bottom of it. Even canners that you buy often come with racks that are useless for small jars, so you will want to buy something that they can sit on --- there are nice stainless steel ones meant for this purpose available at kitchenkrafts.com & other specialty retailers, OR you can cruise the dollar and discount stores for a cake-cooling rack that fits your pot. (This will work fine but be sure not to dump your canning water or remove the rack when finished; if you leave it soaking overnight because, say, you plan to can again in the morning, I can tell you from experience it'll get spots of rust.) SO, to start your canning adventure, I actually recommend NOT buying a canner but rather measuring your pots and finding a suitable rack. If you don't have a pot already that will work, then buy an inexpensive enamel canner as bejay says --- they are less than $20. If you plan to can in small jars, I would get the smallest one I can find --- no point taking up the room for something that will hold quarts if you will never can in them (I never have; it's just me and my husband in the house so the biggest jar I've ever used is 3 cups; mostly I can in pints and half-pints.) The other things I recommend buying before you start to can (other than jars, which come with lids and rings) are 1) a jar lifter [available wherever canners are sold, usually, --- about $5 and a LIFE saver], and 2) a Ball Blue Book (also less than $10 and full of useful instructions, recipes, etc.). Then just start canning! Begin with applesauce or jam or pickles or fruit in syrup -- all easy and VERY low-risk things you can BWB. See what you like. Post to us about your adventures! If --- or when ;-) --- you get hooked, as bejay says, you may decide you want a larger canner, or a better-quality rack, or to move on to a pressure canner. But by then you'll have more of an idea of how much one is worth to you, which will help you spend your money wisely. Just my 2 cents. Happy canning! Zabby

How did you install the mirror? Did you screw directly into a stud? Or did you use the drywall mounting devices provided? Or did you purchase your own mounting devices? I have the similar Pottery Barn pivot mirror. The mirror was quite heavy and larger than RH pivot mirror you selected. I used the provided drywall mounting devices with the exception of one screw that could fit into a stud. They were very sturdy metal screw in style that should hold a lot of weight compared to the flimsy ones you typically get with towel bars or for hanging family pictures. Three screws were used per side. These types of drywall mounting devices have specific weight ratings on what they can hold. Considering the popularity of these items and the liability PB and RH could incur, I trust that they have done their proper research and provided appropriate mounting devices to support the weight of the mirror. If we err on the side of heavy, assuming the mirror weighs 65lbs (I suspect it's more like 50lbs or less), then each bracket would only need to hold 10.83lbs. I do not think you have anything to fear. I have no concerns about this mirror falling on my head (or worse yet - damaging my marble countertop!). If you still feel concerned, you should call up RH and ask what the weight rating is on the drywall mounting devices they provided for installation of the mirror.

I've dealt with Ballard a lot, so here's my take on it. I've never had a customer service problem. I have been very happy with the mirrors I have bought, strictly from a design perspective. The "terrific tables" and glass tops are very good to fill in, although I prefer to use my own fabrics for cloths. I have never been entirely pleased with the quality of their fabrics. They have been either stiff and clunky, or gauzy and insubstantial on more than one occasion. The colors are not as clear and pretty as I'd like, which is a mark of cheap dyes. Some of the purely decorative things are nice additions to a scheme, but be careful of things that are a little over-designed...an extra curlicue, too much trim, that sort of thing. Some of the whimsical useful things are charming, and some are a little silly. I have not bought case goods from them - I find their version of traditional forms a little heavy and awkwardly proportioned - and have heard from others that they are probably not as sturdy as they might be for the cost. So I would say this...look very carefully at the pictures in the catalogue. You can see that some of their knock-off designs are more successful than others. Lots of good designers use their things to complete a look for a fairly small price.

The directions for Loctite mirror adhesive state "This product must be used with a permanent support system." So I called to confirm and they said that I can't rely solely on the adhesive to hold the mirror. Some additional mechanical support must be used. But I got the sense from the rep on the phone that this might be for liability issues, especially with much larger mirrors. Anyone else think I'll be OK just using this to support the mirror? Or is there something that is better for floating a mirror?