Hi Frank, Don't feel bad about not wanting to repot your plant. No novice wants to repot their plants. I'm assuming that you are a novice. It's a little bit like skydiving. You just have to go for it and know that the parachute will open. Yes you are correct in that you can start a new plant from just stem cuttings. They don't need to have any roots on them to begin with. With this plant stem cuttings root very easily if put into moist soil and then put into a clear plastic bag (not in direct sun light). It's even possible they may root without the plastic bag but why put these plants under that kind of stress. My feeling is do what is going to maximize one's success. Along with starting a new plant you can also try to save the mother plant. Again I gave you those instructions. If anything about saving the mother plant doesn't make sense to you then ask away. I am perfectly happy to explain things in more detail if need be. With a porous soil, goldfish plants should do very well without having to work very hard. Giving the plant a good watering until water comes out the bottom of the pot is the way to do it. This is pretty much true of any plant for that matter. Then let the soil are you heard so you've already too are OK every 5 minutes to do this dry out and stay dry for about a day and then repeat the cycle. I don't think you did anything wrong. I think that problem is with the soil. Many greenhouses plant their plants in very dense soil. I'm not sure why. It may be that they don't have to water the plants as often. But I really don't know. All I know is that it happens and it is a real problem for people when they bring their plants home. The reason I don't think you did anything wrong is because you only watered the plant two times in six weeks. That should've been plenty of time for the plant to have dried out in between waterings. The fact that the soil did not dry out is probably because of two factors. First the plant is not absorbing any water from the soil because of root damage and the soil is so dense that it is holding a tremendous amount of water that will not evaporate very quickly. Goldfish plants are not bog of plants. They need to have some air in the soil for the roots to be healthy. If the soil is too dense then there is no place for air pockets to exist. When this happens the roots basically drown. Goldfish plants are epiphytes or tree dwellers. These epiphytes grow in trees in the rain forests of the Americans and the Caribbean. They basically grow in the area where branches meet the trunks of trees. There's usually a little cavity where decayed leaves and such collect. The goldfish plant seeds germinate there and that is their native habitat. The medium is very airy and not saturated with water. You ask about light. Goldfish plants like to have strong indirect light or direct light that is before 10:00 AM and after 4:00 PM. They can get a little sun burnt if they get direct sunlight in the middle of the day. That's about all I can think of at the moment. Again if you have any other questions don't be afraid to ask. Good luck on your plant propagating. Larry

At first glance (although difficult to see with the upside down photo) my first thought was fireblight, but Mulberries don't get fireblight. Knowing this I suspected some form of bacterial blight. A quick search turned up exactly that...bacterial blight. Bacterial blight comes in several different flavors. The closest photos resembling yours is Bacterial leaf scorch. Leaf scorch behaves just as you say...browning from the tips and leaf margins moving back until the entire leaf turns black/brown. I thought that was probably it until I read your post about the wiggly roots and it's feeling not well anchored. Even worse you said it leaned on it's own. I'm thinking almost for sure there is some root issue at play here. Root rot is very common in Mulberry trees, but with your weather being dry it seems less likely (though not impossible). Have you watered this tree? If so, how often and how much? Does the tree reside in low lying ground where it may be subject to wet feet? Have you recently applied a herbicide to your lawn like glyphosphate (roundup), 2,4D, or any broadleaf weed killers? Has your neighbor? It doesn't look like that kind of damage at all, but you never know. Do you have issues with moles/voles? Plants that suffer from too little water uptake (this does not necessarily mean too little watering) often begin dying from the top down because as the leaves transpirate the lack of water is unable to reach the top and tips adequately enough to maintain life. Too little water can be caused by root rot or some other root disturbance caused by burrowing animals etc. Ironically too much water (wet feet) will often exhibit symptoms of too little water in almost all plants I know of. If adequate moisture is available and the roots are damaged by rot or whatever, the roots cannot deliver water to the tree. If I had to guess, I'd think it's a bacterial infection of the roots which has also manifested itself within the tiny trees canopy. Either way or anyway it's not good. Not good at all. Prune away the damaged area well below the damaged tissue and discard (do not compost) it to the trash. Stick your finger down into the soil (if you can) and make sure there is moisture there...but not wet. Be prepared to lose that tree...you may get lucky and it may recover, but looking at the photo on a young tree like that I can tell you it doesn't look very promising. Stay tuned for other responses. There are folks here who grow Mulberry and are familiar with it (I am not).

I looked it up, and I'm in Zone 5. And "Arborvitae" seems to be it, or close enough. (A picture of a "thuja" leaf in Wikipedia looked just like that of my evergreen, but they said they were trees starting from 10 ft. As you can see in the pic, mine are 3-4 ft.). All's I know is, I bought the plants at Canadian Tire (a chain of home / hardware stores), they came in pots. They grew fine on the balcony all summer long. Indeed, they needed *lots* of water when on my balcony in the summer. But now that they are inside and during the winter, I'm still unsure of what their watering schedule should be?

If it's predicted to freeze - cover them at sunset. Remove it when the sun is about to hit the plants or when the temps are above freezing. Make sure the cover goes all the way to the ground, and is held off the leaves with something. I use 2x4s across saw horses to make a support for the frost cloth over a cluster of plants, or a tomato cage to protect a single plant. But this year I have ZERO plants that need protecting. We're redoing the chili growing area, so overwintering them is low priority.