The guy that did my bathroom tub/shower surround will only use Wedi which is water PROOF not just water resistant It is the only thing he will use. Here is a link that might be useful: Wedi

mtl - I did research this last yr and did some soundproofing in a stand alone residence - in addition to the help I received here - I have a bro in law who is a master carpenter and has rebuilt many of the SONY studios in NYC Here's what I've found as stated above different frequencies/noises/origins - Perhaps the cheapest and most effective would be batt insulation - although I would not use fiberglass - I would use Mineral wool - I used brand name Roxul (made in Canada i believe) it has been & still used today for firestopping btwn floors - most people say ICCCK when you mention it as it was not until the recent past that it became available in Batt form - I found it for same pricing as fiberglass - I think it is rated R-15 if I recall. That I used btwn joists in LR ceiling We lost largest ceiling in our home 2ndary to flooding - it was plaster which has excellent sound proofing qualities After the Roxul btwn joists - I put up 5/8" resilient channel running on the perpendicular to joist - applied a green sound proof tape to that (similiar to weather proofing window tape) - then hung 5/8" sheetrock applied to channel - idea is to remove the reverb through the joists - Wouldn't you know IT WORKED!!!! LR ceiling In recent basement remodel - I wanted to soundproof the heck out of it!! 2 reasons - 1 kiddies (we have lots of those) there play/HW/hangout area 2. Future use of a real home theatre We did Roxul btwn joist to ceiling and wall btwn work area of basement & play area (other walls are exterior fieldstone ) then applied Mass Loaded vinyl (1/8"thick) to joists - NOT an easy task by any stretch of imagination - this stuff is heavy, heavy, heavy & you are working overhead - I thought the contractor would walk off the job! here comes the woops part - A grid system was spec'd to go to ceiling - well without visualizing the joists it makes for great difficulty getting the grid up over the MLV but it got done - then a homosote acoustic rated tile to that No not totally sound proofed - because we have a stairwell which is a tunnel - the only way around that would be to put a door in at the bottom of the stairway - perhaps some day - it would be squishy though Roxul btwn joists applying MLV MLV to joists MLV to a floor would have been MUCH easier but not an option - What bro in law used a lot at Sony was Multiple layers of drywall - to be effective it needs to be done in varying layers of thickness 1/2" over 5/8" w/staggered seams I posted a co. website that I purchased MLV & acoustic tape from and got the Roxul locally. Quiet rock $$$$ not sure of it's effectiveness - green glue sounded really messy, messy, to work with Windows and doors are also great sources for sound travel Good luck you really need to determine where sounds are coming from and type of sound in order to appropriately soundproof Here is a link that might be useful: soundproofing

2x6 construction with foam insulation plus the double drywall layer. It's the voids in the sheathing and window area that allow sound through. Foaming will fill those and air seal completely. It's NOT cheap. And then you may need to worry about fresh air exchanges in your master suite, especially when running a bath fan. You can't exhaust air from a room unless it's replaced in some way. That replacement will either come from the rest of the house that is less tight (supposing sufficienctly undercut doors) or it will come from an open window or a duct designed to supply replacement air. The latter is the better option, as you can then keep your sound cocoon intact, and also filter the incoming air for pollens, etc.

That should work well. The clips and channels do help. I'm far from an expert, so I don't know if it would be enough difference to warrant losing a layer of drywall, or the labor of tearing it out. Maybe. Thing is, green glue is great stuff, but expensive. You need 3 tubes per 4x8 drywall sheet, at about $17 each, for a total of over $50 plus your drywall. Sound damping drywall is $50-something per sheet, at least last time I looked, so it's a little cheaper, and less installation labor to boot. A layer of 1/8" MLV instead of the green glue would give you an STC 26 barrier at around $35 per 4x8 sheet plus the drywall. I might be inclined to use one layer of green glue, for the isolation, and one layer of MLV. You can also get MLV with a closed cell foam back to add at least some of the isolation you'd otherwise get from green glue. It's more expensive, but not MLV-plus-green-glue more expensive. The most economical fix of all is to stop the hum at its source, either by replacing the humming component with a quiet one, or by isolating it with resilient mounting. But that might require more cooperation from the condo association.