We put them in 3 places in MBA (b/t toilet/shower room and tub/vanity room, b/t tub/vanity room and WIC, and b/t tub/vanity room and MBR). Those won't matter much if they get left open. I also had one put on PR across from coat closet in foyer - might have been better to put it on the coat closet b/c my kids and DH leave the door open all the time and since PR is only 3x7 there is no way to avoid seeing the toilet. Only put it there b/c last house coat closet and PR/laundry had doors opposite, we were always hitting them together or getting people caught trying to get in and out of the house putting coats on, etc. flseadog - you are so right - not only am I the only one to put new paper on the roll, we have a stand that holds 3 rolls plus the "in use" roll and I'm the only one who is capable of going to the linen closet right outside the bathroom and get new roll(s) when someone uses the last one! Or a new hand towel if I've removed them to do laundry. Not that I expect much of ds (10) but DH could replace things. He *will* take a new dish towel out of the drawer by the stove if there isn't one hanging on the handle, or put new roll on paper towel dispenser. Guess it's just a bathroom thing.

Oh, if I could do a wider opening and pocket doors between my kitchen and DR, I would. But I'm losing mine when we remodel. Like heidihausfrau, our pocket door between kitchen and DR is narrow; even narrower than hers, mine is only 27"! It's ridiculous. We're widening the doorway to 31" or 32" (can't go wider than that). We had initially planned on installing another pocket door but since the wall that currently houses the pocket door can't accommodate a door any wider than we currently have (runs into exterior wall), we would have to switch the pocket door housing to the other side of the doorway, which meant changing the location of the light switches, tearing into the stairway support wall, changing the shelving in the pantry so that it wouldn't interfere with the pocket door ... in the end, we decided to nix adding a pocket door. We're also widening the doorway between kitchen and hallway, from 29" (swing French door) to 47" (no door). We can't install double pocket doors, either one on each side or double-upped with bottom rail nor do we have room for swing doors (would block light switches, etc). At first we weren't sure about going sans doors for both entries. We used the doors between kitchen and hallway and kitchen and DR when our kids were little but we hardly ever close them now. In fact, we took the hallway/kitchen doorway off its hinges months ago to see if we would miss it and we don't. judeny: thanks for the great idea to do a hinged swing door! I had nixed going with a swing door because my DR is narrow enough as it is; I don't want a swing door eating up space (it would also have to swap sides so it would run along the wall between wall and table). But if I can do a hinged door like you did and keep it folded up against itself along the same wall the pocket door occupies now, I just might be able to install a door between kitchen and DR after all. (I wish you had pics to share with us.) Do you remember how far from the wall the door extends when it's folded against itself? TIA! AujS, don't forget to plan for where your light switches will go on the pocket door wall. I'm sure you want them close to the opening so make sure your contractor knows so that he makes sure there's room for an electrical box to house the switches.

Cute kitty. Some thoughts for your consideration: Would not want the refrigerator against the wall -- impossible to open doors all the way. Put a wide, deep shelf, vertical drawer between refrigerator and wall for "pantry" space. How deep depends upon how another suggestion* hereinafter might work. https://www.pinterest.com/pin/423056958720407681/ Would definitely not want all open shelves in lieu of overhead cabinets but If it would be useful to have one open shelf, then add it beneath the overhead cabinets. https://www.pinterest.com/pin/210472982558127718/ That "suggestion"* I mentioned that could affect how wide/deep shelved the vertical drawer pantry between the refrigerator and wall should be -- or if you should have a vertical drawer pantry on each side of the refrigerator and a shorter countertop. Can you cut and move your peninsula, park your island against that wall right of the stove, add a pair of open shelves to the existing overhead cabinet above what is now the peninsula to make that cabinet the same width as the island so you can use the peninsula countertop for the countertop with the sink -- matching parallel countertops against both walls, and then turn your base cabinet of your peninsula into a new island with a totally different countertop? If you must leave the peninsula where it is, then first try to match the existing butcher block countertop. If you cannot, you might consider a much lighter or much darker version of it -- not try to closely match and obviously fail. OR you could choose a solid color -- perhaps white or black or even a slate look gray (perhaps from Corian). https://www.pinterest.com/pin/267260559122310841/ Would put the dishwasher to the left of the refrigerator and to the right of the sink -- but then, I'm right handed and prefer the dishwasher to the right of the sink. The space over the dishwasher between sink and refrigerator should be wide enough a dish drain if you sometimes use one. Would add vertical wall paneling to the side of that new row of the cabinets, to the back and side/end of the peninsula and all around three sides of the island and to the wall -- a wainscoting look for all solid below countertop spaces. What is behind that wall behind the sink? -- a living or dining space? -- a space that would enable you to open up a place in the wall for a thru window? If not, then consider adding a faux window over the sink -- you could make your own with a poster of an outdoor scene and an inexpensive used window frame from Habitat for Humanity or buy one with a light within it. You might consider painting all the area -- cabinets and wall -- below the countertop level a medium to darker shade of your favorite color and then paint all the wall and cabinets above countertop level a lighter shade of that same color. Would keep all the window and door trim throughout the house the same color -- perhaps white.

For the intended use in the foreseeable future, I would not spend that amount of money - plus deal with the aggravation - in order to open up the kitchen. At a certain point - especially if you have been renting it, there would probably need to be major remodeling of the kitchen anyway just from use. Since it is a townhome presumably there are equivalent homes with the same layout which would provide insight into whether it is something that other people have done in the development. Obviously people are different but I personally wouldn't care whether there was an open kitchen plan in a BnB type of short rental. I would be more concerned with location and cleanliness and comfort of beds and also whether there was a great shower. Interesting about how property is assessed. I am also in an area in which taxes are based on initial purchase price with very modest increases permitted. Theoretically remodeling triggers an assessment when permits are pulled. However, when I read the regulations, it appears that most home "improvements" aren't cause for an increased assessment since "replacements" don't cause an increase. If you "add" something like an additional bathroom or square footage it would theoretically cause an increase. There is a gray area in which *theoretically* the quality of the replacements is considered but that is really unworkable in practice since anytime someone replaces the kitchen cabinets (for example), the *quality* is going to be better presumably especially in an older residence.