Is this normal? Sloppy sloppy new construction.
badgerjones
5 years ago
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Joseph Corlett, LLC
5 years agoRelated Discussions
drywall guys - is sloppy normal?
Comments (14)Thanks again. Message received loud and clear! The drain will be covered. BTW, I guess should clarify what I mean by "impulsively hired some drywall guys". (Warning - this will probably tick some folks off). Original plan was to hang it all myself (600 s.f. total, 4 rooms and a hall) and then hire someone to finish. I've done just a couple rooms in the past. Anyway, while halfway through the hanging, I was picking up another dozen sheets or so and a day laborer helped me load and asked if I needed help. My back was hurting, he seemed knowledgeable, so one thing leads to another. Anyway, what a fun 4 days it's become. This guy had a different second man every day. The best was today when he showed up with a one-armed guy with a huge scar across his face. I say to the other "how's he going to do this with one arm?" Reply: "he's going to help me- he's my brother". Looks like he had a bad car accident at some point. So I stuck with them, they're now on the second coat and motoring on. Looking pretty good, too. (My apologies to the drywall trade pros.)...See MoreSloppy or 'To Be Expected' Glaze?
Comments (24)I'm the odd man out here, but I like glazing. The end grains just pick up more of the glazing, which is why it is darker. The trend may be away from glazing lately and towards a uniform cabinet color and also away from distressing. So, I am not sure if that is what people are reacting to. I personally really like distressing and glaze. My tastes don't really seem to change and I'm all right with that. It sounds like you are interested in the glazing because it ties in your darker wood floor nicely. I also believe you are not happy with the glaze on the cabinet style you chose, which is why you hesitated and posted this question. Would that initial door style work for you? That cabinet brand is supposed to be good based on what I could see on a quick google of it. I have chocolate glazed natural maple distressed island by Plain and Fancy. I don't know if this will help you or not, but here's a photo of the sample cabinet I got (I think it's raised panel inset?) And then the actual cabinet...See MoreReplacing carpet with LVT stairs... didn't expect such sloppy stairs
Comments (10)Sigh....carpets hide HORRIBLE surfaces. And you've just discovered another place where this is true - the stairs. *In THEORY (ahem....too much work for most professionals - they would skip over to a surface and be done with it), you can TRIM OFF the slight overlap nose on every single tread to create a perfect 90 deg angle for each riser/tread combo. Then you need to STRIP AND SAND down the white material SITTING on the wood. Please check for lead based paint if the house was built before 1978. (If there is LEAD....move on to full removal/replacement of the tread/risers and leave well enough alone.) Once the wood is PERFECTLY CLEAN (and that means free of the chemical STRIPPER you used to remove the white ?paint?), you can then go ahead and putty all the little staple holes and cracks, etc. Then you sand again. This thing should be as smooth as an Ice Rink! Now you are ready to glue down the vinyl and the nosing. Shouldn't take more than a week. Or you source IDENTICAL thickness wood (pressure treated for this purpose) and remove and replace each and every riser and tread. Be aware....as soon as you TOUCH these things, you need to bring the whole thing up to code. Move ONE piece and you need the whole thing to code. And code means "Finishing Carpenter" level of mastery....and legal everything that goes with the title. If you do this, you might as well have them deal with the banister, etc and have everything moved up to code at the same time - no sense in waiting. If you simply resurface the treads with new carpet, you get away from all of this. If you can resurface using the original material, you should be able to keep everything else as-is. As soon as you remove stuff, and "rebuild" then you are getting into so serious code issues. Personally, I would throw down a stunning carpet that compliments the LVT and leave well enough alone. Make it look handsome by using a runner and then fixing/painting out the treads/risers in a pretty way....but it will involve a huge amount of work. Good luck. Check the paint for lead before you do anything else....See MoreDid cabinet maker do a sloppy job?
Comments (10)Kim, the difference in height between the two banks of upper cabinets is probably due to your ceiling being out-of-plane as well. If they installed all upper cabinets flush with the ceiling, and if the ceiling was sloped, you would notice this during installation of a backsplash tile. It's better to make them level with each other, so that the gap between counters and uppers is consistent. The purpose of trim - including crown molding - is to hide these imperfections in the original walls/ceiling (although it's common to scribe sides to walls). I don't think you need solid material everywhere between the boxes and the wall - only where the screw is. The reason? As soon as that screw was tightening into the wall (presumably into a stud), it pulled the cabinet wall slightly out-of-plane. Cabinet boxes are (theoretically) built to be square, and installation requires keeping the boxes square while installing on an imperfect surface (walls and ceiling). (I'll admit it - I've done this, and immediately realized my mistake and did exactly what I recommended above - put in a solid shim - which in that case will be quite thick.) That looks like a nail board in your photo above, but it's kind of hard to tell whether it's truly a piece of hardwood that's thicker than the rest of the cabinet back. Nail boards are intended to provide a stronger attachment point between the box and the wall. Backs are typically 1/4" thick, and nail boards are typically 3/4". And wherever the cabinet is attached to the wall, it's standard to add shims (something solid) between the box and wall as well....See Moreworthy
5 years agolast modified: 5 years agoJeffrey R. Grenz, General Contractor
5 years agoSammy
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5 years agoJoseph Corlett, LLC
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5 years agobadgerjones thanked Jeffrey R. Grenz, General Contractorbadgerjones
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