What a sweet story, and what a lucky little bird! Happy endings are the best. Laurel

Sean, That's hardly a one liner of a starter question. Sounds similar to my bog/pond. Like an upturned hat with a wide brim. I made the bog depth variable by putting the hat on a tilt, from 12" soil that is constantly moist through capillary action, though none of it is actually below the water level, to 12" soil that is virtually all below the water level, though it varies through the year according to the level of the pond. The slope allows for all the variation in between; 11:1 10:2 9:3 etc. The 12" was convenient, gives a good depth for roots and happened to fit in with the hole I had dug out, leaving my bog level with the surrounding ground outside. Any deeper I figured and I would have to move (more)tons of soil, any shallower and I wouldn't have the root run I wanted. It also gave me enough leeway to allow the pond level to fluctuate by about 8" without the liner being visible from the side (the 12" above the waterline bit is only visible from within the pond). I segregate the two by a line of rocks(no mortar) lined up as a natural sloped strata on the liner, soil on one side, water on the other, block the holes with pebbles, and plants. This also serves as overflow area at 2 points where the land level is lowest, though it seldom actually overflows. Outside the liner in the overflow areas, I have planted other wet loving species though it is interesting that the "wet tolerant" do better here than the wet loving as essentially it is relatively dry 10 months of the year. I had about 400sq ft of pond surface area when I started(200 deep 30" and 200 marginal 15") with about 200sq ft of bog round that. Now it's more like 500 bog, and 100 deep. I clear out individul invading species each year, but I guess I could supply a nursery with what I have to clear out. Try and keep a corner for your specials, droseras, orchids and the like. Also, go as big as you can, looks enourmous when you first start but it soon fills up. I'm looking to make 2 more now as I've run out of space. I used ordinary garden sub soil with a lot of grit added to open up the texture and make it more workable(digging solid soggy particulate soil is a nightmare, especially once it is bound up with a ton of roots). The grit allows the soil to be worked, is easier to shake off the roots and seems to work really well, I'm considering using a 70% grit mix in future. Don't make the mistake of using any soil with weed seeds in it, the constantly moist conditions give a perfect seed germination area. You can always add pockets of nutrient rich soil where you want it, but you can't take it away. Adding lots of organic matter only prepares the way for it to rot down. You'll end up with a smelly black sludge if you have too much organic content constantly under water. Also the nutrients will wash out into the pond water giving you algal bloom especially in spring. Bogs in nature may work with lots of rotting vegitation, but they're seldom hemmed in by a butyl liner a foot down, and usually have a flow through that would make your run off area look slower than a dripping tap! Have you got a constant input into this pond?? I wouldn't do the rushes all round bit, you'll end up pretty quickly, with nothing but. If you are doing rushes, do them in a corner, where you can beat them back every now and again. Think of your access in and out, it's good to work on the bog area from both sides, I don the waders or the wellies( depending on whether I'm going deep or marginal), and climb in over a small trickle waterfall from a feeder stream, otherwise I have to hack through 3" of bog vegetation that is pretty delicate and shows signs of invasion when I do. You were talking of a 5' width, tough to get access to the middle of that to remove the inevitable unwanted invader. Have fun, Cheers Greenmanplants

Thank you both for your responses. This is the first year I have ever tried to start from seed so I'm still learning alot. Betsy- they have dried out a couple times due to the unusually hot weather we are experiencing but otherwise stay relatively moist. I don't think they got sunburned because I try not to wet them when I water them and I water them later in the day (bad I know, I'm working on fixing that). I have not done any foliar feeding as they were planted in Miracle Gro and/or Sta-green potting mix, both which have fertilizers. Dave- I was worried it was a disease which is why I was hesitant to put them in the garden. These plants have all looked pitiful since I transplanted them (not sure why). They never grew tall or bushy like the others that were seeded and transplanted at the same time. Thus I kept putting off putting them in the garden as they never looked 100% healthy. They have had the yellow discoloration for awhile, probably since a few days after they were transplanted. Is this the same as early blight? The cold-frame is outside and made out of wood with a glass door. I open the door almost every day and keep it open at night when the temps stay above 50. I will more than likely throw them out as it is not worth risking. I have a long growing season, so I can try other options (plus 60+ seedlings that are ready to be up-potted that are a little leggy but appear healthy otherwise.) As for the in ground plants- they are stressed most likely because of this insane weather here. I thought our temperatures were safe to plant and since then we've had numerous nights in the 40's and upper 30's which I know they do not like. I think the soil is a little cool because I am noticing they are starting to turn purple again. Our daytime temps though usually stay in the 70's+. The turkey compost was well aged I believe as I bought it from a reputable source in my area and looking at it when I got it, it just looked like dirt and bark so I'm hoping it was. I have not fed them anything since planting as I am not even sure what the best thing to feed them would be. What do you suggest. As far as my plants in the garden, should I pull them up and just plan to replant with the new seedlings I have or should I keep trying to save them? Also, it's probably worth mentioning that I believe I have a MASSIVE infestation of clover mites all in and around my garden. The reason I believe they are clover mites is because they have dark bodies with red legs and move quickly and are on EVERYTHING, plants, soil, grass, blocks, etc. Thank you for all of your help in my never ending new learning experience. :)

I see lots of pet owners complain that the trainer did not train their dog----when the owner will not implement the training provided by the trainer. Well you'll certainly get no argument from me there ;-) That's the bane of my existence! If a trainer can take the dog and within a session have the dog sit, down, heel, stay or come .... then the dog gets it and the problem lies in a communication breakdown between the dog and its handler. And there are certainly varying degrees of trainer competence as well. However, most training failures occur because the handler fails to put in the hours necessary to proof behavior. I can show someone how to train their dog in a couple of sessions, but if they're unwilling to follow through, practice, practice, practice, honestly assess where fault lies, make changes in their approach and not give up, it's almost worthless...almost. The moment when a handler "gets it", when I see the light bulb switch on and the dog really starts to perform with and for the handler makes it worthwhile. I'm on my soapbox as I just finished an 8 week course and had 3 handlers just not getting it. One wants to learn and will be returning to my next class (participants are always welcome at any future class free of charge for the life of the dog) One is lucky that she has a dog with a great disposition and doesn't realize how much sheer joy she's missing out on because she will not follow through and mistakes permissiveness for "love" and the last going to to another trainer that I am paying for just so I can salve my conscience as i was unsucessful at persuading him to re-home the dog. He's not going to get it, will never get it and it will be always be the "dumb dog"'s fault. Couple that with my own dog, who came to me as a last-chance foster with some major, life-ending issues and who had gone from a very dangerous dog to a certainly has the potential to hurt someone dog to an OK dog to a pretty decent dog well on her way to a fabulous dog and the exalted status of best-dog-ever, losing a battle with OS before she turned 6 and I'm a little disillusioned and not real patient right now Rcivok, get someone in there who can help you. It's doesn't have to be expensive or long-term.... maybe 3 in-home sessions including a follow-up ... but you'll benefit from a hands-on demonstration and from learning management techniques that will keep you (and your family) safe while you change the behavior.