Need help in choosing a dog-friendly flooring for the house
Carina
5 years ago
Featured Answer
Sort by:Oldest
Comments (32)
Related Discussions
X-Post: Moving S of Tucson - need dog friendly yard.
Comments (30)Even if a turf lawn is small, it can add a great deal of beauty as a setting for other plantings. Keeping it "relatively" small can make it do-able. Confining it to a central location in the back yard is where it might give the most bang for the buck... being the "white space" for the plantings closer to the perimeter. (I can't speak to what greyhounds might do to it since I have no experience with them. Do they like to tear directly across open space, or use the perimeter like an oval track? The latter could be to your advantage insofar as turf goes.) An oval shape seems like it would fit the back yard nicely and if it was a pronounced, distinct, perfect shape, it could add a feeling of strength and organization to the overall design of the yard. Since the back lot line has low trees already, beefing them up with Palo Verde or Mesquite, so as not to see buildings beyond, seems like a good goal. I agree that neighbors could not expect that you wouldn't plant trees or that you would assume responsibility for their view. (When was the last time you thought about asking anyone to alter a tree on their private property to suit your needs? Where your trees cross the property line into neighboring yards, it's the case that they own the crossing portion and can do with it as they please. It might sound like be a harsh legal reality, but plantings at yard perimeters that provide some privacy or shade USUALLY work to the advantage of both parties. Usually it's not much of a problem.) Combining some views-below-canopies with privacy, where needed, seems like it would be easily workable. Along the cul-de-sac area, you might consider breaking up the run of wall with small groupings of small tree-form shrubs with open space between the groupings. Where I live, freestanding walls and fences are frequently treated by placing a lower hedge to run alongside them. To my thinking this is a complete waste of material and effort. It does nothing to interrupt the boredom of the wall length. Just like how periodic columns add interest to a plain brick wall, periodic plantings that exceed the height of the wall add visual interest. Large flowering shrubs make good small trees for this purpose. Grouped tightly in 3s, they also add depth to the planting. As pointed out, the TYPE of thorns that plants have make much difference. I would not think thorns on TREES would make much difference (in general) to people or pets as the thorns could easily be placed overhead and out of reach. Plants without thorns can be placed at lower levels. And in some cases with certain plants, thorns that are highly visible and obvious may be acceptable. The patio area is somewhat like a stage positioned to play to a 180* view. Of course, the actual viewing occurs in the opposite direction of what it would in a theater. Here, the audience sits on the stage and views the "theater seating" area, which is the back yard. After you determine the actual square footage of additional patio needed, you might consider making its distant edge to be arranged in a semi-circular, octagonal or similar, bay-window-ish shape so as to "play" to the rest of the back yard. It would need to fit with lawn shape. Setting small groups of trees to both sides (not between "stage" and "seating") could provide shade and maintain an unobstructed view to the lawn and remainder of back yard. Trees selected for what their canopy could become (as it relates to patio and house) would be important. The discussion of wall heights surrounding the back yard can be confusing. As you refine your ideas you might submit a revised plan for the wall that only indicates what portion of the wall is ABOVE your back yard grade... as that's what really matters from back yard viewpoint. Also, for discussion purposes, I suggest that it would be easier (especially since your house is set at a diagonal to cardinal directions) to refer to right/left/fore and aft--as one would view the yard from standing at the street facing the house--as opposed to NE/SW/SE/NW, as those require one to memorize the directions or to go back and look at a previous drawing. Right, left, fore and aft is easier....See MoreHelp me choose a trim style that is DIY friendly
Comments (11)Although my house was built in 1900, it's a very simple little vernacular house in an old mill town, and here at least the vernacular "unstylish" houses like farmhouses and factory workers' houses didn't change much at all in the decades before and after the turn of the century. Both upstairs and down the trim is all very simple butt-jointed boards and I really like the way it looks. The plainness suits the house very well but the width has some "oomph" to it so it doesn't look pitiful. The vertical bits are 5" wide; headers are 6 1/2", a hair thicker and about half an inch wider that the verticals; the window aprons are 4". Baseboards are over 9" downstairs (ceilings just short of 9') and 7" upstairs (8' ceilings). Upstairs baseboards are three-part, a wide flat board topped with two smaller moldings, upstairs they're just a plain flat board. The living room has a skimpy picture molding that's about 2" in profile; even if it is original it doesn't look in proportion with the rest of the millwork so we will probably replace it with something a little wider but still very simple. Here's a picture of one corner of the living room from before we moved in, since the house isn't very presentable right now. :-) It's not too easy to see with the white-on-white paint scheme, sorry; try not to see the vinyl windows! All that millwork has to be stripped since there are so many layers of paint built up and previous owner also painted right over chipping and peeling areas after just brushing off the loose stuff so it looks terrible (he was also daft enough to use a FLAT paint, too, so if you look at it wrong it gets dirty and doesn't clean for crap). We've also been told by someone who lived here decades ago that the trim was dark when she was a girl, and we've found dark stain under a few chips. In our previous house, which was fairly new but soulless and in need of a bit more old-fashioned flavor, we used a flat casing backbanded with a simple piece of square stock. Had it been an older house I would have used a wider casing on the doors and windows but I didn't want to go overboard. The only photo I can find with a real close-up of how the casings were done is this one from the bathroom: If you want a fancier top to doors and windows like in items 1 and 2 in the OHJ article linked above but aren't into piecing the thing together yourself, Vintage Woodworks has one nice simple header that would look great with plain-stock casing....See MoreI need help choosing a dog from the shelter !
Comments (30)I agree to neuter your dog first then take it to meet the potential new dog. I also would like to add to lift it's feet, touch it's ears and handle it's mouth, try looking inside. See how it responds to these. If it is overly aggressive make sure you know what you're getting into and are ready for it. I would even take a brush along and see how the dog acts. Sometimes a dog will get along great with general handling and even with other dogs but be aggressive. The behavior can be changed but takes time and lots of work usually with a trainer. I would also see if the dog has been tested for food aggression. These suggestions are all for adult dog adoptions. If adopting a puppy and you want one that is a bit more laid back hold it in your hands and turn it on it's back. If it's healthy and doesn't squirm a lot then it's a more mellow dog. I also want to say that adopting a dog from a rescue group that has fostered it does not guarantee health, mine had gihardea (sp?)! They said that they are not responsible once the dog is adopted. Our shelter has shelter care insurance for 3 months and it would have been taken care of no charge....See MoreDog friendly floors?
Comments (17)Wood expands and contracts with seasonal humidity changes. Site finishing will not stop that expansion or contraction and any finish that covers it will soon develop micro cracks in the finish between the boards. If you don't have AC, or use a humdifier in winter, the expansion and contraction can be pretty dramatic and so can the cracks in the finish. It's why wood floors in older homes usually have gaps between the boards. When they expand, the fibers on the edge become crushed, and at the ebb cycle in the humidity, I've seen some older homes where a quarter would fit in between the planks. Wood floors can stand the occasional water or piddle accident, but they are NOT a good choice where something like that is expected to happen on a regular basis. The best floor for any doggie daycare is porcelain tile with epoxy grout. It's completely waterproof and stain proof. It's what they use in restaurants, and it can stand up to kitchen accidents and pressure washing. If you want something softer underfoot, then look at commercial vinyl tile with a commercial grade acrylic sealer on it that you have a flooring company periodically maintain. That's what's used in most hospitals and other settings where tough wear and a good deal of moisture resistance is needed but something a bit quieter and softer than porcelain is desired. There are lots of people using this in their kitchens in checkerboard patterns and other patterns and it comes in lots of colors. Look at the Armstrong flooring site for pictures and to order samples....See MoreCarina
5 years agoPatricia Colwell Consulting
5 years agoCarina
5 years agoCarina
5 years agoUser
5 years agoSuki Mom
5 years agoflopsycat1
5 years agolast modified: 5 years agoCarina
5 years agoCarina
5 years agoCarina
5 years agoCarina
5 years agoLyons Design
5 years agoExpress Flooring
5 years agoAshley Lathrop
4 years ago
Related Stories
LIFEThe Polite House: On Dogs at House Parties and Working With Relatives
Emily Post’s great-great-granddaughter gives advice on having dogs at parties and handling a family member’s offer to help with projects
Full StoryMATERIALSWhat to Ask Before Choosing a Hardwood Floor
We give you the details on cost, installation, wood varieties and more to help you pick the right hardwood flooring
Full StoryKITCHEN DESIGNPet-Friendly Design: Making Room for the Dog Dish
In a dog’s life, you eat on the floor. Except in kitchens like these, where pets are factored into the design
Full StoryDECLUTTERINGDownsizing Help: Choosing What Furniture to Leave Behind
What to take, what to buy, how to make your favorite furniture fit ... get some answers from a homeowner who scaled way down
Full StoryREMODELING GUIDESHouse Planning: How to Choose Tile
Glass, Ceramic, Porcelain...? Three Basic Questions Will Help You Make the Right Pick
Full StoryHOUZZ TOURSMy Houzz: A Circle of Friends Turns a Dallas House Into a Home
Homeowners enlist help from friends to remodel, build an addition and decorate their home
Full StoryBATHROOM DESIGNWhich Flooring Should I Choose for My Bathroom?
Read this expert advice on 12 popular options to help you decide which bathroom flooring is right for you
Full StoryDECORATING GUIDESCould a Mission Statement Help Your House?
Identify your home’s purpose and style to make everything from choosing paint colors to buying a new home easier
Full StoryTRANSITIONAL HOMESReworking a Two-Story House for Single-Floor Living
An architect helps his clients redesign their home of more than 50 years to make it comfortable for aging in place
Full StoryEXTERIORSHelp! What Color Should I Paint My House Exterior?
Real homeowners get real help in choosing paint palettes. Bonus: 3 tips for everyone on picking exterior colors
Full Story
salex