don't stagger the lights on the pathway. It will look better if they're all on one side. Can't actually see the walk, but lights would likely look better on the landscape bed side, than on the lawn side. However, (and I agree with the low intensity downlighting suggestion) I'm thinking that with downlighting the front, you very likely would not need path lights. Less clutter and a cleaner look. I would focus on lighting the steps area very well. With that and downlighting on the house, it may be all you need. Take a shop light on a long extension cord out at night and explore the different effects of light shined on various things.

I really appreciate all of the input, suggestions and questions. The room is a big, ugly shell right now so now is the time for all major design issues to be addressed! John, thanks for the info on the drains and the flood test. Waterproofing is definitely a priority since our project has been complicated by uncovering evidence of water leaks that were previously unknown. We're in Michigan, unfortunately, too far away to take you up on your kind offer! I know that our door situation isn't ideal but it's one that we feel we can live with. We had considered using a pocket door but we're not able to relocate electrical switches to allow for it. I didn't try too hard to work around that issue though because I'm not a big fan of pocket doors personally. I'm definitely going to plan for niches right away, before the framing and plumbing is done. Emknc, thanks for posting a photo... You have a very spa-like room and I love your accent tile! Jglassdude, thanks for your input. I know that a 3rd sink would seem to be overkill but we (ok, mostly my micro-biologist husband!) prefer to wash our hands inside the lav area, before opening a door to come out and use a sink. Originally, the water closet fit within the square outline of the room and once we realized that we could bump it out and orient the toilet in the new space, we then added the sink where the toilet was planned to go. It's funny that you mention a bidet because we just tore one out... I used to use it for in-home pedicures and as a mop-sink for the floor! Lol! I should have mentioned that the shower head and control were shown on our drawing prior to the decision to hinge the door on the right. She correctly put the showerhead on the little corner piece because we can't run plumbing on an exterior wall but, as you pointed out, it angles straight at the door. We were thinking of instead having the NE corner of the shower built to accommodate a shower head that could angle more straight across the shower, especially since the door would swing away from it. It would seem that our controls then would be best on the south wall of the shower. Could you explain what you mean by "double acting door intent"? I'm not planning to hang towels in the tub area but there are raised areas on each end of the tub where towels can be placed while we are bathing. We've designed towel niches on either end of the tub step for extra rolled towels. We're planning to put a Runtal Solea towel warmer on the wall between the water closet and the shower. This is pretty much what the room looks like now... You can look right down into my kitchen and my dining room(!) The bifold door to the left of the ladder is my old linen closet door and will be walled off.

Late to the thread -- a perfect example in the above where a smaller diameter can is not always the best solution for general lighting. Many (including myself) like the small cans and think they will be less intrusive, but if you add 40+ it just becomes ridiculous. I second the recommendations above wrt to putting in an overhead light and/or wiring your outlets to a wall switch; you simply need it to navigate through at night. I do like lamps and use them most often, but for task work and entering a dark room, a wall switch in the right location (or locations -- I have two in my FR) is invaluable. Another option alluded to above -- LED tape light and bars give a lot of uplighting options, hidden in small soffets or as uplights in a picture rail.

On the plus side, your present layout of kitchen appliances is in a good working order (fridge, sink, prep space range) so you may be able to save $ by not moving any of those items or not moving them much. While I don't mind the older cabinets (I have an older, vintage style myself), there are not that many of them, and it may be within your budget to replace them. Without measurements, my thought would be a peninsula off the wall between the windows to increase counter space or possibly a small, movable island. I have the small island but it just fits and your space looks a tad smaller. There might not be room for a peninsula - why measurements would be helpful. You are correct that the style clash is not helping:) Realistically, a table that is the only eating area and part of the kitchen will probably need to be less formally dressed. If a peninsula wide enough to hold a couple of eating spaces fits, smaller meals and snacks could happen there, and then the dining table can be a bit formal. I think if you change out the cabinets, counters and backsplash to a less country style, you and your husband can find a style that is a better mix of your taste. If this was my space I would also consider at some point putting the same flooring throughout - for me that would be an ordinary solid hardwood.