I think you will have serious issues with suds lock in that long 3/4 inch PVC pipe. However, it will come down to you usage patterns and your specific application and equipment choice. Is it a top load? Top load has to pass about 10 to 14 gallons per fill out that little tube fairly quickly. A front load may have only 5 to 8 gallons to get out. Had the horizontal tube been 1.5 inch or 2 inch, you would have a higher success rate. If a top load, does it have neutral drain (pump all the way out before attempting spin)? Speed Queen does not have neutral drain and would have a tough time with this set up, it would burn out the belt quicker attempting to spin the load with water, might even eject water over the tub cover. An old whirlpool top load would likely pop the splutch from overload over time, a time consuming repair for the average Joe, but at least the part is cheap. You will definitely have more dry time as a result and more loads where the motor current detection software will keep it from going to top speed. If you have an electronic model with some flexibility you may be able to program a little more spin time. But be aware, spinning is generally what wears out the machine. If it had a default spin time of 5 min, changing to 6 min will take away about 20% of the expected machine life. Spinning wears the seal and bearing systems in particular as well as the pump, shocks if front loader, and pivot element if a top loader. High in rush currents are harsh on the motor if the load is high. Siphon risk? Hard to say. Most units have a duck bill back flow preventer just downstream of the pump so that after the water leaves the pump, it can't return to the machine. But generally you want the outlet at the drain pipe to be above the top water line on the machine. Your local inspector would likely not be very happy! Good luck. Laundryvet

The leaky faucet may just be a coincidence, and not the source. Two thoughts. First, you could conceivably have a slow leak in the piping from somewhere in the wall due to any number of reasons. Also, if this is an outside wall and you have had really cold weather lately, you should consider the possibility that it could have damaged the pipes (e.g., a hairline crack). I suggest you go out and look at your water meter and see if there is any movement when no water is turned on in the house. Usually a meter will have a tiny indicator in the center that will rotate if there is the slightest amount of water flow (like a leak or drip). Second, is there any possibility that you have leakage from accumulated snow/ice, or any kind of water ponding? Two weeks ago my nextdoor neighbor had water get into the wall and come out under his kitchen cabinets. The roof over his kitchen is flat, and the outflow drain had gotten plugged with leaves: the backed-up water had gotten under the roofing and come down inside the wall.

The link is not helpful, Trebruchet. In fact, it is misleading. Bleach does kill mold. At least is kills fungus that might be called mold. "Mold" is not a terribly precise word, but you can look up data for the effectiveness of sodium hypochlorite on fungi as well as bacteria and viruses. It is true that bleach is not an effective mold-killer on porous surfaces. It is fine on bathroom tile and roofs. The reason the writer of that stupid article sees re-growth of mold on roofs and on bathroom tile is because mold is ubiquitous in our environment. Nothing stays disinfected forever. To kill microbial growth in wood and other porous building materials, you have to penetrate the material fully with active chemical. That might be more difficult than replacing the affected materials. The question is really, is bleaching or borate-treating minimally-affected material good enough? It may be if it is kept dry in the future. There will mold in contact with the wood in the future no matter what you do.

Hi, just now working on this. New counter was installed and I put the sink and drain in (yay me!). Now I am trying to connect the drain pipes. The new drain holes are closer to the wall and the wall piece below is too long to accommodate the p trap. I push the j pipe all the way in to the bend, and I need to push it in another inch, but it won’t go because the wall pipe reached the bend in the j. Do I need to do something to the wall pipe configuration? If so, please give me some words to google because I haven’t mastered the vocabulary. Or can I do something with the pipes under the drain to remove that inch? The pipe coming out of the drain is almost directly in line with the wall pipe. I think the pipe in the pic above is too long. I’ll show the attempted assembly in another photo so you can see the problem. EDIT: Here is my attempt to assemble. The t pipe(?) that connects to the drain pipe needs to scooch back about an inch. I can cut it to length.