mclendon -- We actually did very little of the hands-on work ourselves. My DH helped one the framing guys expand a room, he framed the arches, laid tile in two bathrooms, and that's about it (well except for all the stinkin cleanup!!!). This has cost us right at $90/sqft. We were hoping we'd be closer to 80 - but we've added some expensive finishes -- tile shower, granite countertops, hardwood on entire bottom level (except baths), expanded kitchen, etc. Our land work was about $10k more than we budgeted, so that accounts for $3/sqft right there. So, as far as advice, I'd have two or three bids done on your landwork if you have anything other than a straight flat lot (we have a basement). I'm not sure where you live or your financial situation, but it wasn't hard to get the bank to give us the money we needed, so I'm not sure on that one. They just asked us questions about what we were planning and we gave them answers and they gave us money ;o) Thanks for the compliments -- we are hoping to be in this weekend!!

Can't wait to see Annie's headboards too! Grouting will probably be DAYS, not day! NICE, I wish I had that kind of energy when it comes to grouting time! TooMuch, anytime goes! My hope is to stop STARTING without finishing! Gypsy, it's a GOOD sickness that we all share! SLOW, it's more white plate middles on a lazy susan. Thanks for all your nice comments. It is a fun passion!

Not that I'm a fan of the home center's kitchen departments, but it would be a great place to test the waters. They use 20/20. Plus you would get lots of computer and manufacturer training there. Make a plan to work there for at least 6 months. If you still like it, then send out your resumes to the local dealers. I honestly don't think that you could start out as an independant designer without more kitchen design and installation experience. And don't even consider buying 20/20 on your own. That would be cost prohibitive. Kitchen design is a wonderful career. I've been doing it for 23 years. But Livewire makes some VERY valid points. You can be a great designer, yet not make it in the KD world. Here's a list of traits/skills I personally think one needs to be a KD. Livewire, please add to the list if you think of any more: 1. creative 2. problem solver..."think outside the box" 3. be able to visualize 3D space 4. multi-tasking!!!! 5. good memory (product knowledge and technical (construction) knowledge) 6. Tough skin (you can't take things personally. You will lose jobs....even ones that you worked your tail off on!! Ones where the customers TOLD you that they were ordering from you...only to go with another company. You WILL get used...and you will have to learn from that. You have to be able to 'let it go'.) You'll also need tough skin if a customer yells at you for something. Stay calm. A few clients will lose their temper during your career, but I imagine in my thought that: they had a tough day....or maybe their mom is in the hospital....etc. 7. Detail oriented. There are so many things to measure and to consider, to ask....and to research! What's the wall height? The window trim width? Are the walls square? Is the customer using frameless or inset? How will changing that alter the design? Which cabinet line are they going with? If I Have to change over the design from brand A to brand B, how will that change the design? How much room for crown? How should I design the crown? The list can go on and on..... 8. Must be patient. It's like having kids...you never know what you're gonna get....with your customers. Most people are great to work with but you will get: nervous-nellies, nit-pickers, fighting couples, arrogant engineers, indecisive people....etc. You can't take things personally. 9. Listening skills: Don't think that you know it all (be humble). Even if your design is the absolute best for their room....it's still their room. And if they want this or that....even after explaining the brilliance of your design...so be it. People will get very angry if you don't give them what they want and they WILL go elsewhere. 10. Field experience: Installation knowledge and experience is very important. If you're in this business long enough, you will learn a lot from your installers. I recommend any new KD to be on the job during an entire install. 11. Problem solve: When problems arise during installation...you'll need to talk with the subs and the customers to devise a plan to action. I hope this helps! Kompy

The determination of "subfloor" would be part of your contract with the installer/shop. If you PAID for new underlayment to be added (to match the requirements for the floor installed) then you are supposed to get "what you paid for". If the underlayment upgrade was not part of your "job" (you didn't pay for it therefore it is not part of their contractual obligation to do it), then the subfloor that is THERE (in your home) is owned 100% by you. The person who walked through your home and who assessed your subfloor (so they could write an accurate installation quote) is the person who you chat with about the "appropriateness of subfloor material at time of installation". I can't tell you who is responsible for the thickness because I don't know what your job entailed. It all hangs upon the contract for the work. If you paid for new 23/32" OSB subfloor to be laid, then you should have received the product. If you did NOT pay for it, then the condition of the subfloor is, sadly and very frustratingly, on you. Please check the contract and your purchase from the store to find out if your job contained "plywood" of any sort. And yes, some types of nails or staples can make some interesting noises when punched into wood (OSB is particularly upsetting because it can create more noise than others....but if it is the RIGHT OSB then it should be OK). But this is the very reason why many installers avoid OSB like the plague. In this situation it is allowed....but there are many independent installers who won't go near it....for this very reason.