Why wait until next spring to do that soil test? Having a good, reliable soil test done now will allow you to make any necessary changes to the soil so it will be ready next spring to grow your plants. In addition to a soil test done by your state universities USDA Cooperative Extension Service use these simple soil tests, 1) Structure. From that soil sample put enough of the rest to make a 4 inch level in a clear 1 quart jar, with a tight fitting lid. Fill that jar with water and replace the lid, tightly. Shake the jar vigorously and then let it stand for 24 hours. Your soil will settle out according to soil particle size and weight. A good loam will have about 1-3/4 inch (about 45%) of sand on the bottom. about 1 inch (about 25%) of silt next, about 1 inch (25%) of clay above that, and about 1/4 inch (about 5%) of organic matter on the top. 2) Drainage. Dig a hole 1 foot square and 1 foot deep and fill that with water. After that water drains away refill the hole with more water and time how long it takes that to drain away. Anything less than 2 hours and your soil drains too quickly and needs more organic matter to slow that drainage down. Anything over 6 hours and the soil drains too slowly and needs lots of organic matter to speed it up. 3) Tilth. Take a handful of your slightly damp soil and squeeze it tightly. When the pressure is released the soil should hold together in that clump, but when poked with a finger that clump should fall apart. 4) Smell. What does your soil smell like? A pleasant, rich earthy odor? Putrid, offensive, repugnant odor? The more organic matter in your soil the more active the soil bacteria will be and the nicer you soil will smell. 5) Life. How many earthworms per shovel full were there? 5 or more indicates a pretty healthy soil. Fewer than 5, according to the Natural Resources Conservation Service, indicates a soil that is not healthy. to look more closely at your soil for what else needs be done. Here is a link that might be useful: usda CES offices

Heehee, the first new pic is the same hideous Adenium that in the earlier pics I 'found' its caudex! (Just shows that even if you think a seedling is ugly now, it may turn into something beautiful like this! Although I didn't think it was ugly at the time!)I think I chopped the top of it the next day after the pic was taken. My Adeniums seem to have branched with out any help but I think I took the top off most when they where about 2-3 months old, but only did about six to try and judge what was the best option, (to chop or not). As for my results, I'd say that the side branches grow faster and larger if you remove the middle one and when they are the age mine are they look nicer because they are more even. I will try and find some pics that show this. In summer I watered them everyday as they dried out everyday (I had them in full outdoor sun), and fertilized them with liquid cacti and succulent food once a week. Otherwise I don't know what made them branch, but the ones I raise from seed myself often branch quite early. Please remember that although I have done a lot of online research into growing Adeniums my oldest is just over a year old so I am no expert! Thanks deanie and kaktuskris, I've put a lot of effort in to my babies so its nice to have them admired :P. And deanie your babies will get there, I have no doubt yours will be just as nice! I couldn't find any pics that show good chopped/non chopped Adenium examples but here are some group photo's anyway that might be interesting to some :P. I haven't chopped the top off any of the younger ones (except for a few that had mites earlier) as it is winter here now. Eeeppppp, its so exciting sharing these pics with people all around the world whole love adeniums just like me!!! And I love seeing other people photo's too. So post away everyone!

I should mention that I just took AOL off my computer after 8 years. I understand AOL leaves bits of itself all over as well. When I followed your instructions I ran into a snag but tried to continue on. Hopefully Norton is gone. 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Take the plants outside into shade. Get your hose and aim a strong jet of water at the leaves, top and bottom of the leaf surface. You may want to tip the plant onto it's side so that you are washing the bugs off, not down the stem into the potting medium. The goal is to remove as many as possible. Next, you will mix a spray bottle with the insecticide of your choice. Some good, safer options for edibles include Neem Oil or insecticidal soap. Read the labels twice on whatever you choose. Spray the plants thoroughly, top and bottom of leaves, stem, and you can even lightly spray the soil surface. Leave the plants outside, in the shade, until they dry out a little, then you can bring them back inside. A note: you will have to repeat the spray treatment every few days in order to fully interrupt the aphid life cycle. Once isn't going to do it. And you must treat all affected plants in the room or you will end up leaving the aphids a "home base" from which they can recolonize. Your goal is to manage the aphids such that their numbers are surpressed enough that the plants can grow and be healthy. It is difficult to eliminate them entirely in an indoor environment.