Gabby, Most peaches set about 80-90% more fruit than they can carry. If I didn't thin heavily, my peach trees would all be on the ground in one season (from broken branches). I generally try to thin to 1 peach per 12" of branch space. That means a 1 year old 24" shoot could carry 2 peaches. Your trees must be very healthy to have such a large fruit set when planted only last fall. It helps that they are such large trees. My guess is they were also potted trees and you were careful not to disturb the roots? I wouldn't be afraid to let the peach trees carry a heavy crop (spaced every 12") IF you have fertile soil and the trees are not unduly stressed. That means you need to have a grass/weed free zone around the base of the tree and the trees are neither drought-stressed or flood-stressed. If that's the case they should still be able to carry a full load and have plenty of vigor left over for new shoot growth without any future detriment to the tree. The "Siamese twin" peaches you describe are called "doubles". They are caused by stress during bud formation (the previous summer). You can identify these doubles in the flowering stage. They will have two separate pistils inside one flower. The ovaries in both pistils are fertilized and grow together. Because of the way peaches develop, one fertilized ovary will not grow much (or in some cases die) while the other develops normally, giving the double fruit a sort of Siamese lopsided look. Double peaches are fine to eat, if you can get them to harvest. The problem is as they get bigger, they tend to split at the connection and allow bugs and fungus to enter the fruit and rot it. Generally it's recommended you remove doubles at thinning time to avoid this problem. Early in the season I have broken off the smaller side of double peaches (very carefully so as not to pull the peach off the tree) and the peach will generally heal up just fine at the break, leaving a small scar and a slightly uneven peach at harvest. All my comments above refer to peaches only. Pears are much less vigorous than peaches. As such, they may be more susceptible to set back or runting, if cropped heavily at such an early age.

Shumard Oak should be a good choice for an oak. The wilt is reported to spread by root and insect infestation. Shumards don't seem to be as affected by it as Live Oaks. Another good oak choice would be a Bur Oak. Better Wilt and drought resistance than Shumard or Live Oak. However they do not have the pretty fall red color that the Shumards have. Just a note on Cedar Elms : Their name comes from the fact that they are frequently found growing with Ashe Juniper (cedar). DED has had little affect on the elm tree population in Texas. Cedar Elms are very dependable/ adaptable trees and will last for 70-100 yrs or so. Disease and drought resistant, they are also one of the few trees down here to reliable produce a muted fall color. They are an excellent choice for landscaping down here.

I'm not an anti-staker either but that is majorly overkill for the size tree that you have. Both look rediculous for that whip that you have. It looks like you could straighten it out in the planting hole. I would have the bendy side facing the west or northwest and not bother with stakes. Normally how people deal with that is they put a stake right up against the trunk and tie it to the stake. I wouldn't do that either but what you've done will do nothing for the shape of the trunk. The dan stanley method is a good one but for concerns of already straight trees from going bendy. It won't get currently bendy trees to go straight.

OK - you've been officially told :-) 2 year grafts are much too young to be messing about with. Give 'em a couple of season of growth before you start making any decisions about altering their appearance.