stained glass--which way is up?
Peggy Ricketts
5 years ago
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Sina Sadeddin Architectural Design
5 years agoMarta
5 years agoRelated Discussions
best way to handle peeling deck stain
Comments (1)If it'll do the job, best way to remove is sanding with a floor sander. But if it's really stubborn, you might have to go the way of using chemicals to remove it. Try sanding with a 60- or 80-grit sandpaper. If it takes just a bit of elbow grease, a floor sander should work well. If you can't get it all off, you'll have to go the way of chemically removing it. You'll have to apply a chemical stripper, power wash it off, then apply a neutralizer to make sure the wood gets back to the right color & the chemicals won't interfere with the new stain. No matter what, you're looking at a solid weekend's worth of work to remove the peeling stuff. As for stain types: try to find a good hybrid that both penetrates and leaves a very slight film (I'm talking maybe 1/2 mil thick) for UV protection. There are several out there. The plain oils tend to darken over time, but the pure film formers peel, as you've experienced. A quality hybird will give you the best of both worlds. Hope that helps some. -- Charis w/ Sashco...See MoreI'm a mess and way too hung up on labels and rules. Help me!
Comments (147)Beth, I have been so delighted and educated with all these posts. I love the evolution of your wonderfully charming home! You are an amazing woman! I share several of the decorating dilemmas you've mentioned. My "living room" is about 2' more narrow and 2' shorter than your area. I'm learning a lot from your post. The repurposed gun cabinet idea is absolute genius. Please share a photo when you've installed the shelves and contents. Regarding the non-glare glass for your larger artwork. The price of non-glare glass has become simply ridiculous. I have an entire hallway lined with (Gasp!) a family gallery wall. It includes photos from more than 100 years ago to this year's school pics of the great-nephew. Color, colorized, sepia toned, black and white, all mixed together and mostly in their original mismatched frames. That just about breaks all the rules, but I love my wall. Several of the older photos - Mom's 1954 graduation photo; MIL's 1952 wedding photo, etc. - had plain glass. I can't tolerate the glare either. I made a note in my iPod of all the frame sizes that needed replacement non-glare glass. Every time I'm at a thrift shop or yard sale I check out the "frames" area. You can often find large pictures that may be in horrid frames, but they will have non-glare glass! I buy the frame, take out the glass, and toss the rest. I found one very large print of ballet slippers framed with non-glare that was big enough to cut down into several pieces. It made one 8x10 and three 5x7 pieces of non-glare glass for my wall, all for $1. With their permission, I took the glass out at the shop, tossed the faded print, and re-donated the empty frame back to them....See MoreBig Glass Door Cabinets...All the way up or not?
Comments (14)Bee, I'm sorry I don't have a better picture and with the glass in. The glass is something like four feet long. That's a big reason why you don't see it very often--shipping the glass! If I'd gotten it from the online source I found the pattern at, I would have had to pay for it to be crated in wood like fine art. That would have cost as much as the glass! Equally, getting it made locally would have cost a similar fortune because of the transportation issues. JDesigns from this forum found me wholesale sources an hour away where my contractor could have picked up the glass, taken it to be tempered, and taken back to be cut, then brought here, which he would have done. Fortunately, he thought to ask his glass source, who were installing my mirror in the butler's pantry, and they could get the glass...and because they were bringing the mirror, I didn't have to pay the hundreds of dollars to transport the cabinet glass which was so long it had to be crated or on a glass truck (or between boards in the contractor's pick-up, with prayers for no potholes). Make sure the KD costs it out and is 100% sure it's not going to cost you a lot extra in the shipping. If your designer is going to source the glass and have it arrive installed and ready for you to love, there's no reason not to go all the way up. Then it's just a matter of what you want it to look like. Some people have glass over glass, some (including me), have wood over wood, some have glass over wood, some have wood over glass. Whichever does it for your design is right. I did split cabinets on the perimeter because of the breaks for the hood and window, and because I didn't want to see the stuff that one needs a ladder to get at. I also felt like the cabinet would loom over there if they were solid. OTOH, in the butler's pantry (one side pictured above), food pantry and laundry, they go all the way up and don't loom. It's all a matter of what balances in the design....See MoreNew build... 2.5 story LR, exposed beams way high up... how to treat??
Comments (2)I would have a carpenter box them in and stain them the same color as your floors. I don't mind the extension pieces as long as you treat them the same as the beams. Something like this might be nice: Alternatively, you could ask the architect to design a more decorative truss to put between the extension posts:...See MoreHALLETT & Co.
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