min width is 36" would rec at least 42". you have rise and run to figure out amount of space needed. Max riser height of 7.75 inches and tread(run) min of 10". Here is link to codes. I would go closer to 11" on run and 7.5 on rise. All have to be maintained throughout the staircase. There are codes that affect winding treads as well. Straight run of stairs will climb the fastest b/c it olims another landing. Spiral stairs should not be used unless as an extra set of stairs in a house. An L or U will add more character to a home but may work better depending on layout. As long as you follow the same footprint the headroom will already be built-in. GL http://www.co.stevens.wa.us/landservices/documents/STAIRWAYSECTION.pdf

How about a spiral staircase? You can often fit a spiral in in areas where you otherwise never would be able to. In many areas you'll need a second means of exit from the upper floor, normally an outdoor emergency stair, though. The only problem with spirals is that you get into a situation where it can be very hard to move furniture. That's also where the second staircase comes in.

Our situation was a bit different but hopefully I can offer suggestions based on our situation. Local building code required steps onto the lawn from the house for an occupancy permit. They're concrete and we built over them with what you see in the link. Our specific concerns were safety while transporting items in/out of the house. And we had an elderly relative for whom stairs were dangerous. So, we built an Egress Porch (really a small deck) over the existing steps, level with the threshold. This provides secure footing while opening the door. Then we choose landing style steps for easily providing assistance to someone in need. If you were to consider a small deck it would provide the security at your door like I mentioned, leave the weep holes open and could still become the 1st step. Other steps could be pavers on concrete to match the patio. Hopefully your patio could be enlarged a few square feet to recover the space necessary for the steps. Hope this helps. Here is a link that might be useful: Our Egress Porch

(1) Remove the white trim. (2) Repair the drywall (holes, etc.) (3) Get the stairs stained. (4) If the top of the stringer board is in good condition, you should not need to add any trim or molding to finish off the top edge. Then very carefully paint the wall and the stringer board the same color so that the board "disappears" into the wall. Be very careful to mask the stairs using special paint edge tape so that you do not get any bleeding of the paint under the tape and onto the newly stained stairs. At the bottom of the stairs, you just need a plain piece of baseboard extending straight out from the edge of the stringer board, painted the same color as the wall. You might want to ask the floor man whether he wants the wall and stringer board painted before or after he stains the stairs. I'm not sure which is the preferred order to do that.