Help with kitchen floor repair.
Christine Gjertson
5 years ago
last modified: 5 years ago
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Mule Meat
5 years agoHard to give a good answer or idea without seeing the damaged tiles.
If you had the floor installed by a company you may contact them to get some information on style and size. If they were good. They should have left some extra tiles for repairing any that may become damaged over the years. That is what I try to do anyway.
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Need Help repairing Rotten Floor Joist
Comments (5)Thanks for all the tips. Finished the job today. For anyone else who may need to do this, this is how I did it. I cut off the rotted part and cleaned off the old board with tor-bor and let it dry. I used an 8x14 (cut to size) and sistered it to the old board with 8 x 1/2" bolts, construction adhesive and nails. Key was to jack up the new board at the end nearest the center beam so it would fit tight against the sub floor and even with the old joist. I would have preferred to run the new joist across the center beam but getting it on the beam was too much work as it was not an easy fit....See MoreRepairing hardwood floors -- need help with low VOC option
Comments (2)Matching a stain color means a lot of testing. The same color in a different batch on a different wood can be different. What kind of finish was applied. An oil based finish creates an amber color, where water based finishes do not---making a huge difference. If trying to match an oil based finish color with a water based finish, you will need a toner added to the finish. Hopefully, you will have several scrap pieces on which to experiment. Both with stains, toners, and finishes....See MoreHelp! Repair dent in textured engineered hardwood floor?
Comments (2)You can drill the dent out with a hole saw or spade bit. And then glue in a round oak plug (1/4" thick). Sand, wire brush (manually), apply brown/smoke reactive stain and white hard wax oil....See MoreHelp: overzealous husband ripped up kitchen floor. Need DIY flooring
Comments (8)So here's the deal. If you want to LEAVE the subfloor as it is (no more cleaning/grinding/scraping) you MUST install a flooting floor. The subfloor appears to be particle board that has cut-back adhesive on it (cutback was often a black colour). What was on the floor in the first place? How old was that product? Some products from the 80's had asbestos in them as well as the adhesive (cutback adhesive from the 80's is famous for having asbestos in it). Don't panic. So long as it is NOT ground down (made friable = airborne) you are fine. But if this is an asbestos containing adhesive you have to either: A) Float a floor over it (vinyl or water proof laminate or engineered hardwood, floating cork, etc) B) Rip out the substrate it is sitting on (the fibre board) and lay new underlayment; or C) Lay new underlayment over top (sandwich the black adhesive between to layers of underlayment) and then apply a permanent floor over top So the decision for you sounds like an easy one: floating floor. Vinyl MUST have flat (all the ripples in the glue will show through). A rigid floor like laminate (spend the money on a water proof laminate like Aquaguard) will be fine to go over top of the remains of the adhesive. Put down an underpad underneath the laminate and you are good to go. And no, vinyl planks do NOT like underpad. They need to go straight down over top of rigid subfloor....See MoreChristine Gjertson
5 years agoUser
5 years agoChristine Gjertson
5 years agoThat’s close but it doesn’t match :-( Thank you for looking for me. Someone said it looks like a pattern that was carried 10 yrs ago or more.
Mule Meat
5 years agosuedonim75
5 years ago
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